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Thread: Lyman 45 buying guide and cleanup instructions

  1. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldtoolsniper View Post
    Attachment 61928
    This is the same 45 completely redone
    I made the sticker too.
    oldtoolsniper, I thought you might like to see these...a couple photos of the only intact "original" 45 labels I have.

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
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  2. #42
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    As far as erupting salts, it could happen, I have not had it happen. I went a long time smelting lead pipe before the tinsel fairy came to visit. I was thirty feet away crushing pipe in the log splitter and I am now believer! It was on the side of the house and hanging in the low branches of the tree overhead. I now dress accordingly.

    I have no interest in adding stuff to make any kind of pyrotechnics, saw way to many injuries during my 23 years as a Marine from that stuff.
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  3. #43
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Back to the subject.

    Jon is that white one a sticker like the clear one? I might be able to create that one. Take a look at the lower casting and see what your casting mark is on the ones you have. I would be interested to know what they are and what decal is attached to the casting number.

    The clear one shows how to trim the stickers better than I can describe it.
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  4. #44
    Boolit Buddy autopilotmp's Avatar
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    Mine is casted with a 3 and had a clear sticker. I say had only half was there and that came off along with what was left of the paint.

  5. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldtoolsniper View Post
    Jon is that white one a sticker like the clear one? I might be able to create that one. Take a look at the lower casting and see what your casting mark is on the ones you have. I would be interested to know what they are and what decal is attached to the casting number.
    the white label looks like a 2-ply label that is delaminating.
    the white label unit has a "2" on the lower casting.
    the clear label unit has a "U1" on the lower casting

    btw I just sold the white label unit to another CB member, I included a rev I handle with it...not the rev II handle as shown in the photo above.
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  6. #46
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    I am going to add some pictures of mine, the casting marks. I am betting they are from production runs and they most likely date the modifications to these tools. That explains the different threads and lack of interchangeability. Stanley tool works did this with their hand planes. The screws were cut in house forcing you to use them for repair parts for one thing, but I think back then it was a cheaper method of production. I doubt they were ever thinking someone would collect these things or ever rebuild one.

    For parts I am betting matching those casting marks gets you the same cut parts.

    I learned these lessons the hard way buying old tools. If the screw or bolt is not the correct one from the factory most likely the threads in the hole are destroyed and there is no replacement. You now have a paper weight or a lot of work ahead of you. Even making a screw by hand at minimum wage put's the price of that kind of repair beyond current worth of one of these tools.
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  7. #47
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Clear label has a curved border and the white one is square.
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  8. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldtoolsniper View Post
    Clear label has a curved border and the white one is square.
    I seen that, and that's why I posted the photo's...Plus I knew that white labeled unit was soon to be sold, and figured I should document it through a photo.
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  9. #49
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Of the four I have these are three casting marks. The bottom U over 2 I have two of and these parts all exchange freely.
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  10. #50
    Boolit Buddy autopilotmp's Avatar
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    I wonder what the "u" is for, mine has a "3" but no "u". I will add a pic later today.

  11. #51
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Two different cut op rods. Square cut set is 1/4" longer.
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  12. #52
    Boolit Buddy autopilotmp's Avatar
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    I haven't had any luck getting the screws that hold the op rods to back out. Any suggestions that won't damage them?

  13. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    I seen that, and that's why I posted the photo's...Plus I knew that white labeled unit was soon to be sold, and figured I should document it through a photo.
    Jon
    oldtoolsniper....I bought the white labeled unit from JonB. If you need anymore information on it to help you sort through this just let me know. I'd be glad to help out and provide whatever info you need. I was even a machinist back in another life and could provide accurate measurements, thread pitches, etc....

    Also, if you do happen to recreate this exact label I would obviously be interested.

  14. #54
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    The screws at the bottom? Be vary careful and take your time. I used a propane torch and heated them followed by immediate quenching in cold water and they came right out. If you don't want to go to that extreme PB Blaster in the gallon can for $19.00 a gallon here in Iowa is a good way to go. Fill up a can or jar and soak the parts in it for a few hours. I use the heat method because I was re-bluing mine using the 700 degree hot method so losing the blue or changing the color by heat did not matter to me.

    PB Blaster eats some plastic and it really does a job on Styrofoam cups. If you decide to use your Styrofoam coffee cup save yourself some time. Just dump the PB Blaster all over what you were going to set the cup on. If you add the Styrofoam it's really a sticky mess to clean up. Not that I know first hand.....
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  15. #55
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Jon,
    Compare the clear and the white sticker if you can, the white one appears taller than the clear one. it could be the angle of the photo as well.
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  16. #56
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    ultramag I am going to see what I can do.. Dang it now I am off on another tool expedition.. This is going to cost me money...

    Is there a simple way to figure out screw threads and pitch? One a common man can understand. Right now I use the nut checker at the hardware store.

    The link below takes you to my experience as a Machinist.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-making-(Long)
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  17. #57
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    Yes the white label is taller and the type of the first two lines is larger...I don't know by how much...it is now packaged for shipment
    I'm sure ultramag can get you dimensions next week when it arrives.
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldtoolsniper View Post
    ultramag I am going to see what I can do.. Dang it now I am off on another tool expedition.. This is going to cost me money...

    Is there a simple way to figure out screw threads and pitch? One a common man can understand. Right now I use the nut checker at the hardware store.

    The link below takes you to my experience as a Machinist.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-making-(Long)
    There is a tool called a "thread pitch gauge" that is the most common I'm aware of. That combined with measuring the diameter will give you what you need to cut/match your threads. I'll do a little Google work and see if I can come up with a link to a reasonable place to pick one up or at least see what I'm referring to.

  19. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldtoolsniper View Post
    Is there a simple way to figure out screw threads and pitch? One a common man can understand. Right now I use the nut checker at the hardware store.
    I bought a bunch of screws at the hardware store...trial and error was my technique. some on the lyman 45 are 8-36. IIRC I used some 8-36 setscrews in replacement for the knurled screws on the bottom of the guide rods...as shown below, click to enlarge.
    Jon

    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  20. #60
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Poop! That's what I was afraid of. Bigger means a whole new set-up. I had never seen the white one. The clear and colored are the only ones I had seen till you burst my bubble.
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check