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Thread: Lyman 45 buying guide and cleanup instructions

  1. #21
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by JonB_in_Glencoe View Post
    alrighty,
    I'm still interested in that piece...whatever it is ???
    Jon , it is still yours.Hopefully my fleabay score will show up soon.I was not planning on using my "new" Lyman to seat checks.I am planning on setting this one up for sizing and lubing my low velocity pistol boolits.I already have a NOE gas check seater as well as my old LAM RCBS lubrisizer.Thanks again for taking the time and great pictures to show us how to rebuild these.I will send a pm when it arrives and get your mailing address.

  2. #22
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    I've added photo's of the finished "painted" and "blued" Lyman 45 in post #2

    I also edited post #9 ...adding photos and hints on how to adjust the boolit depth and how to plug some holes in a standard Lyman die to solve "over lubing" problems.
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  3. #23
    Boolit Mold Fan of the 1911's Avatar
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    Thanks for the post, I almost have mine ready to run, I'm going to tweek a few things first. I used a file handle for mine, looks ok.

  4. #24
    Boolit Master Any Cal.'s Avatar
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    Appreciated this thread. Bought a 45 here and it was great having all the info on it. I didn't restore mine, just got all the old black hard stuff out and got it back into service. This many years later it is still a good little tool!

  5. #25
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    I thought I would add to this thread, based on Jon's instructions in this post I'm cleaning up, repainting, and repairing four Lyman 45'.
    This one is the worst of the lot it's in rough shape. I started with it because I figure if I can get this one cleaned up and working nice the rest should be a breeze.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    As Jon stated it is extremely difficult to remove those tubes once you have it stripped-down. I tried a strap wrench and that just slid around the tube. I too had to resort to the bicycle chain wrench.
    To prevent crushing I turned a wooden dowel to the inside diameter of the tube.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by oldtoolsniper; 02-11-2013 at 07:34 PM.
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    The wooden dowel turned to the same diameter as the inside of the tube prevented me from crushing it with the chain wrench. However it still galls up the tube. Not a big deal on this one because the tube was severely rusted.
    Those tubes do not come out easy. I heated it with the torch I put Kroil on it and I still didn't think I was going to get it. I guarantee without that wooden dowel in there I would've crushed that tube.
    Since this tube was severely rusted I already planned on turning it on the lathe and sanding it down.
    Leaving the wooden dowel slightly tapered on one end allowed me to jam the tube onto the wooden dowel. In that fashion sanding could be done under power without fear of damaging the threads.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    I will add more to this as I go along many thanks for an order for Jon for initially starting this thread and helping us all along with this project.
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  7. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldtoolsniper View Post
    This one is the worst of the lot it's in rough shape. Click image for larger version. 

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    OMG that's rusty !!!

    I'd like to add a thought...
    The fit of the guide rods through the upper and lower cast Iron pieces is really important for alignment. I'm thinking that serious rust, once removed, will leave a sloppy fit. If the cast iron pieces aren't too bad, You may be able to make (or have made) the two 5/16" diameter guide rods. I did that with one a while back, I got some 5/16" stainless steel rod scrap from work and did a little redneck machining with my drill press. I didn't get them perfect, but close enough to be functional. It'd be extremely easy for a talented machinist...and if I were to do it again, I'd let a machinist do it

    Thanks for sharing the project.
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  8. #28
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    JonI'm glad you pointed that out to me. After looking at them I figured those to rods ran the entire system and if they're screwed up the sizer is not going to work. I knew from your pictures the rods were shouldered on the ends. Those nuts had to come off and I couldn't get them to do anything but turn the entire shaft. It took some head scratching and a boolit but I solved the problem.
    I smashed a boolit in the vice and on the other side used to section of lead solder to protect the shaft from the teeth in the vice. The nuts turned off with no damage to the shaft.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    It just goes to show you boolits are nothing more than tools.
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  9. #29
    Boolit Bub
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    The spring on the one I got eBay was over extended, is there a good replacement?

  10. #30
    Boolit Master fryboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Racenviper View Post
    The spring on the one I got eBay was over extended, is there a good replacement?
    see jon's sig line and send him a pm !!! he's a great guy to deal with !!!
    Je suis Charlie

    " To sit in judgment of those things which you perceive to be wrong or imperfect is to be one more person who is part of judgment, evil or imperfection."
    Wayne Dyer
    if it was easy would it be as worthy ? or as long of lasting impression ? the hardest of lessons are the best of teachers [shrugz]
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WLzFhOslZPM

  11. #31
    Boolit Bub
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    I didn't even see that, duh. I don't pay any attention to them, you see the sig all the time. Thanks

  12. #32
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    Blueing 45 parts in stump remover.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    After they are done.
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  13. #33
    Boolit Mold
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    I wish i could have found this post again sooner ! What is the best way to remove the paint?? And is stump remover a bluing agent??

  14. #34
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    This is the same 45 completely redone
    I made the sticker too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails ImageUploadedByTapatalk1361456204.675906.jpg  
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  15. #35
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The stump remover is the same stuff brownell's sells for blueing.

    NITREBLUE® BLUING SALTS


    Mfr:BROWNELLS
    Price:$66.99 - $111.99
    Gorgeous "Fire Blue" Colors & No-Scale Tempering - A Master Metal Finisher's Secret Useable In Any Shop
    Turn parts and small pieces a deep, rich, lustrous blue with a finish that's tougher and prettier than most of the cold blues. The process is really quite simple: Heat the salts up to 570° F. - 650° F. (they are NOT dissolved in water, they're used straight). Dip the parts in, watch for the color change. Lower temperatures give a "straw" color like the older Luger parts. As an added bonus, the salts can be used for the drawing operation when heat-treating springs and parts.
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  16. #36
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    It's not as simple as just dumping the parts in there. You have to polish everything to a mirror finish with sandpaper and then buffing wheels. The finish of the metal is the finish of the blue. It will accent any blemish in the metal. It is not paint. Your metal object must be completely stripped of anything and everything other wise you get a violent eruption of 700 degree liquid. If you can't or won't polish your metal to a mirror finish it's best to leave this alone. YOU and YOU alone are responsible to determine if this is safe for you to do.

    This stuff melts at 633 degrees Fahrenheit.

    The picture is there because this is the exact stump remover you need. Not some other type or brand, this is the only one I have used. If you go another route I wish you luck and safety.


    I am sure it causes cancer in California.
    Last edited by oldtoolsniper; 02-21-2013 at 12:06 PM.
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  17. #37
    Boolit Buddy oldtoolsniper's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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    The chemical to remove stumps.
    Potassium nitrate msds

    http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9927232
    “Work hard! Millions on welfare depend on it!”

  18. #38
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    can this stuff (Potassium nitrate) be re-used ?
    Or is it a one use, then dump ?
    Dump where ? do I need to find a stump lol
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  19. #39
    Boolit Buddy autopilotmp's Avatar
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    JonB,

    from what I have seen the salts will solidify on cooling and you can reheat them for use later. The video I watched about this said to be cautious when it is reheated cause it can get hot on the bottom and erupt through the top crust spewing the hot salt.
    Last edited by autopilotmp; 02-28-2013 at 10:58 PM.

  20. #40
    Boolit Buddy
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    mix it with some sugar, stick a fuse in it and you have a smoke bomb!

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check