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Thread: Ben's red in the long run

  1. #81
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    just the unmelted bits of red and tacky grease.
    you are really melting down the stearating agent that holds the base oils and additives in the red and tacky into a homogenous gel when cooled.
    it has a much higher melting point than the bases do since they are a liquid and it is a dry powder that turns liquid under heat in it's useful form.

  2. #82
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    I've found that cooling and reheating helps blend the grease into the mix.

  3. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbeans View Post
    41mag,

    What is being strained from the R&T?

    thanks,

    BB
    Biker...Run answered it better than I could of thought about it. What happens if made 2 or 3 different ways is the amount of unmelted chunks of R&T you will have.
    I've made 3 different variation of batches, made 2 times for each variation.

    The first batch I made, I melted my beeswax, added the other ingredients and slowly tried mixing it all together on low/med heat. After 30-35 min I strained thru a tee shirt, lots of chunks of R&T were smashed thru the tee shirt. When it sets up, it's a nice bright red color. It will be tacky, with a dry feeling.
    When lubed on boolits, leave for 24 hrs and it will harden slightly to where it's still tacky, yet firm.
    You'll see what i'm meaning by this when you lube and experiment.

    On the 2nd variation, I melted the R&T first in a pot that was slightly bigger than my hotplate. I melted on med heat, turning up slightly and slowly, stirring constantly. In the pot that was on the coil, it would be slightly liquidous, but when moved to the outside away from direct heat of my hotplate coil, it would instantly solidify. Took me maybe 35 min of this, when pulled from heat, it solidified to a tomato paste consistency. I then added jpw, atf, stp and cooked for till jpw melted, then let cook an extra 5 min, added to R&T, mixed together. I then melted beeswax and added. It gelled instantly, strained and there was chunks but not like the first batch.
    This batch had a deeper red-brown color, was slick to the feel, yet tacky, with a slight wet feeling.
    With this batch, if you don't make lube sticks, but melt and pour into a lube sizer, then lube boolits, let the boolits sit for 24hrs before loading.

    With the 3rd variation, I used same pot that was bigger than my hotplate coil, but cooked the R&T to full liquidous state. This will take some time, on med heat, with a little bump in heat ever so often to a med/high heat in the end. But when stirred and moved to the outsides of the pot, it will stay liquid. Keep stirring and melting till you think it's all fully melted. You'll know when you got it fully melted as pulling it off the heat, it will stay liquidous and no solidification process will be noticed.
    Melt the jpw,stp,atf let it cook an extra 5 min, add to R&T, stir together.
    Melt the beeswax, add to mix, you'll notice an instant gelling as the beeswax pulls everything together.
    There'll be chunks left, but they will be very little. Straining thru a cheese cloth works, or even a small holed collander works good for this.
    This batch will have a burgundy, deep maroon-brown color.
    It will feel tacky, yet very slick and have a very noticeable "wet" feeling.
    If melted and placed into luber, let boolits sit 24hrs before loading to harden up some.
    Even after hardening, this batch will still be very "wet" and very slick to the feel between the fingers.
    It does have a higher tendency to pull from the lube groove vs the other batches. Less if left to sit for 24hrs or more, but still the tendency is there.


    Please don't take me wrong on this, but the only way to fully understand what I've found on the 3 ways I've made it, is to make all 3 yourself. The way i describe what I've seen and feel between the fingers,might be different than the way you or someone else may describe it.
    Adding 5% more beeswax to a lube stick, I've noticed a more firmer lube on the 3rd variation. And my groups improved too.
    I wonder even though not proven, that the 3rd variation without added beeswax might be at a disadvantage, as there might be a slight case neck tension issue, just due to how slick it is, causing a slippage upon ignition of the primer, whereas the added beeswax gives it just enough hold for the ignition of the powder before being moved.
    Which me and Run have discussed this as a friction issue....which makes a lot of sense once he explained it to me.

    Sorry this post was long, but i hope it'll help you out some.
    Last edited by 41 mag fan; 08-31-2013 at 11:09 AM.

  4. #84
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    41 mag fan

    I think you're correct.

    I've always read that getting cast bullet lube " too slick " is not a good thing ......... ? ?

  5. #85
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    Ben sometime, when I get my butt in gear and the gumption up......gumption being the key!! I'm going to post an experiment I'll do using all 3 variations, and what i've found. First thing though, is I need to finish my boolit trap and get this dang heat outside to go away!

    But you are correct...too slick is no good either.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ben View Post
    Doug,

    Take a look at this ( Ben's Blue ) :

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...t=Ben%27s+Blue
    Why go blue when Red is working so well??????????
    I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
    Paralyzed Veterans of America

    Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here

  7. #87
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    Wow ! ongoing here ... excellent ,
    Just recieved and cast and lubed up a batch of 135 gr hp's (new mold from Miha) .. 40 s+w .
    Put them in a cartridge in front of 5 gr of WST ... with the magical lube here.
    Didn"t have time for a true trial but ran fifty rds thru my Keltec sub 2000 with the 16 inch barrel ...think they are going to be accurate as they seem to be on the high end with that load .
    After the last load , I folded up the gun and glanced down the barrel .... Wow !! very clean , not a streak or shadow of lead and only one speck of powder !!
    Previous loads with my 155 gr's and lighter powder increments left streaks here and there and of course more unburned powder specks but ...
    By the way .. put some thru a while back that were "powder coated" .. started to lead a bit .
    So far , still loving the "Ben's Red" !
    It is much easier to fool people ,
    than to convince them they have been fooled !

    If you can read this , thank a teacher ...
    If you can read this in English , .. thank a Vet !

  8. #88
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    im gonna make up a batch of this and try it.

  9. #89
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    i've put 1200 rounds through my 500mag 6.5" and all my other guns (9mm, 45, 38 and 357) for the last year now and haven't have any issues. i tried making the ben's red lube with blue grease but it came out green because of the yellow beeswax.


  10. #90
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    As long as it shoots well and leaves your bore clean, who cares if it is green or red ? Glad you're having success with your lube !

    Ben

  11. #91
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    Do we call that Ben's green or Spawn's green?

  12. #92
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    Looks to me like " Spawn's green."

  13. #93
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    haha, sure

    i will say mine has about 1.5 times the beeswax to so it's a bit less messy. it still flows through a cold sizer, but does do better when warmed up a bit. those 50cal's require a 1/8" turn every bullet regardless of temp unless you really put pressure on it.

  14. #94
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Those pointy boolits do look nasty... I like them!

  15. #95
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    Those pointy boolits do look nasty... I like them!
    as soon as i saw the mold on ammo channel from youtube i had to have it, luckily NOE did another run a while ago and i got a 4 cavity. they hurt when you grab a handful of them though lol.

  16. #96
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    Maybe wear gloves?

    I still like 'em and kinda wish I had bought a mould for my Marlin but of course only one in the mag tube then.

    I still wish I had bought one. Maybe when I get more toy money.

    How are they shooting for you?

    Longbow

  17. #97
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    Quote Originally Posted by longbow View Post
    Maybe wear gloves?

    I still like 'em and kinda wish I had bought a mould for my Marlin but of course only one in the mag tube then.

    I still wish I had bought one. Maybe when I get more toy money.

    How are they shooting for you?

    Longbow
    with light loads pretty good, i don't shoot much past 15meters though. i will be loading 50 of them with trailboss to get a better idea how they are, but i still haven't completely mastered accuracy with that much recoil.

  18. #98
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    Well apparently the 429303 did quite well in .44 mag revolvers so I have to think that you will find accuracy in your reloading since the .400 design was based on that boolit mould.

    Longbow

  19. #99
    Boolit Bub Elmo's Avatar
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    I always thought boolets were little kids trying to scare people!
    All times wasted wots not spent shootin!

  20. #100
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    I have had exceptional results using Bens Red via Lyman 45 and Bens Tumble Lube. As a new guy, I couldn't be any happier. I am shooting .45 ACP on the low side using Unique and H&G 68/COWW. No leading and good accuracy.

    Im shooting out of a M1911A1 that had A LOT of corrosion in the barrel--77 year old. I soaked it for a month in Kroil. It got most of it out, but not all of it. After about 100 down the pipe, the barrel looks fantastic and cleans up with a dry patch. Thanks, Ben!

    The best I could get using Kroil--cleaned up. She was a safe queen for a very long time.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    After about 100 rounds followed by a dry patch.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check