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Thread: Ben's red in the long run

  1. #61
    Boolit Grand Master
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    mainiac

    It seems more than a little odd to me that Lucas oil company would create an market an " abrasive grease " that is intended to protect machinery from wear. That truly would be an " odd paradox ".

    I don't read anything in the description of the grease below that I perceive as a threat to a gun barrel.

    Maybe some of our chemical engineers can offer input on this question ?
    ___________________________

    Lucas Oil RED "N" TACKY GREASE

    Lucas Red 'N' Tack Grease is a smooth, tacky, red lithium 12-OH grease fortified with rust and oxidation inhibitors. It has good water resistance and washout properties. It has excellent mechanical stability and storage life. It is able to withstand heavy loads for extended periods of time. It can be used in many agricultural, automotive, and industrial applications. Lucas Red 'N' Tacky Grease is fortified with a high degree of extreme pressure additives that give it a TRUE Timken load much higher than other greases of this type. Its especially good for sliding surfaces and open gears.

    Lucas Oil RED "N" TACKY GREASE Features:
    • Rust and oxidation inhibitors
    • Water resistant
    • Excellent mechanical stability
    • Long storage life
    • Agricultural, automotive, and industrial applications
    Last edited by Ben; 05-07-2013 at 11:02 AM.

  2. #62
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Using that grease doesn't bother me one iota.

    Ben's Red is a good lube. I don't worry over things that just aren't worth worrying over.

  3. #63
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    mainiac:

    Dissimiar metals is just one theory and principle behind anti-seize. Other additives to a lubricating product can do it.

    The MSDS for Permatex lists aluminum as a component: http://www.permatex.com/resources/msds?view=msds, enter product number 09975 (it searches ONLY by product number).

    The MSDS for Red n' Tacky does not list any metals: http://www.lucasoil.com/images/media...-2-27-12-1.pdf.

    So long as aluminum is not oxidized, I wouldn't worry about it in my barrels anyway. But it's not a factor for this lube.

  4. #64
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Grump :

    " The MSDS for Red n' Tacky does not list any metals. "

    Thank you for your input, that should put this matter to rest.

    Ben
    Last edited by Ben; 08-30-2013 at 09:44 AM.

  5. #65
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I sure hope so. Sadly, it will come up again in 6 months or so.

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by btroj View Post
    I sure hope so. Sadly, it will come up again in 6 months or so.
    I use 3 different grades of never seize,at the plant i work at,,alunimum based,copper based,and nickel based.Use the stuff pretty near every day,so we can get stuff apart at a later date.So I kind of had an intrest in this subject.I couldnt get the msds to open for me,so i couldnt check just what kind of never seize is in it. Sorry to make you sad,,i wont ask about it again.....

  7. #67
    Boolit Grand Master
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    No insult intended. It is just that this has come up before.

    I can assure you that Ben has used enough of this lube to know if long term issues were a problem. He has a long record of shooting small groups and uses this lube for all of them.

  8. #68
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    Mainiac, the 'never seize' compounds you use are completely different than the anti-seize additive in the Red & Tacky grease. The grease is completely transparent, no metal materials are seen. What ever the package additive is, is on apparently a chemical or molecular level.............

  9. #69
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    It was a fair question, informed by what Mainaic had encountered in his personal experience.

    I'm just older and read too much.

    FWIW, I used to bah-humbug concerns over the soft iron bullet jackets with the copper plating as bad for barrels, until I saw a report where some rapid-fire drills burned out a barrel using ComBloc stuff in only about 7,500 rounds. The other rifle shooting (FC?) American copper jacketed stuff survived with acceptable accuracy. The burned out barrel, IIRC, well a Glock .40 shooting crappy ammo was more accurate by the end of the test.

  10. #70
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    Cool! I intend to make up a batch,regaurdless. Ive been shooting felix exclusively since about 2004,and havent the slightest complaint,but i guess im ready for a change.

  11. #71
    Boolit Master Digger's Avatar
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    Mean while .... I have yet to clean my 586 again , been to much fun and still looking like a mirror down the barrel .....

  12. #72
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    Digger :

    I do believe you and Ben's Red are a match made in heaven.

  13. #73
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    I cant get johnsons wax in NZ and the can i have is nearly run out after 30 odd years. Has anyone substituted carnauba wax , 303 guy put me onto a source (thank you) but before i waste any by experimenting I would appreciate any advice. The raw cost of materials here is prohibitive .
    The Bird of Time has but a little way
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  14. #74
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    Driver man

    Are there cans of " Paste floor wax " available to you ?

    Anything similar to this :



    Ben

  15. #75
    Boolit Buddy Driver man's Avatar
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    I havent found anything in paste form at all. Plenty of liquid type polishes and cleaners etc. I have sent Johnson's NZ an email asking for details of local supply for thier paste wax but I dont expect a reply. Their NZ web site has a plethora of cleaning type products but not the one they are famous for. I have purchased their paste wax in the past but that was over 30 years ago and maybe with such a comparatively small market it may not be worth their while manufacturing or importing this product in NZ.We will see. I have had a message from a forum member willing to send me a couple of cans and I really appreciate the offer but I will exhaust the possability of obtaining locally first. I really want to try this lube and i have all the other ingredients ready to go. I will be visiting a local wholesaler next week who may have a similar product,they supply commercial cleaning companies with floor waxes but I dont know yet if suitable.
    The Bird of Time has but a little way
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  16. #76
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    Ben,

    I just picked up my first lube sizer, a well used 450 lyman, a week ago. I have about 30 more 500g .459s to lube/size and the lube that came with it will be gone. I have all the ingredients to make Reds this weekend and put it in this old, unheated, lube sizer. I have a pile of ww/lino gas checked bullets and a CZ 550 458 WM waiting to test your lube. Looking for an accurate +2000 fps load.

    thanks for your recipe and I will report back how it works for me.

    thanks

    BB

  17. #77
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    driver man jpw is a mix of carnuba [@5%] paraffin 75%[airc] and the whole mess is kept soft with a solvent.
    the world would not come to an end if you left out the jpw and just added about 2-3% carnuba to the rest of the ingredients.

    minwax,and others make quite similar products and they can be substituted as well
    furniture polishes in the can are basically the same thing.
    but you can leave the jpw out and sub for it without any earth shattering problems.
    you could even throw a chunk of tea candle about the same size and be fine you just won't have the shiney bore like you will have with the carnuba addition.
    adding regular carnuba instead of the jpw will also help the lube take more ambient temperature too.

  18. #78
    Boolit Grand Master
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    I'm in total agreement with runfiverun , the world would not come to an end if you left out the jpw !

    Ben

  19. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikerbeans View Post
    Ben,

    I just picked up my first lube sizer, a well used 450 lyman, a week ago. I have about 30 more 500g .459s to lube/size and the lube that came with it will be gone. I have all the ingredients to make Reds this weekend and put it in this old, unheated, lube sizer. I have a pile of ww/lino gas checked bullets and a CZ 550 458 WM waiting to test your lube. Looking for an accurate +2000 fps load.

    thanks for your recipe and I will report back how it works for me.

    thanks

    BB
    Biker....if you got the time and resources, try making Bens Red 2 different ways. First try making it by melting the R&T to where it's a tomato paste consistency and add your other ingredients....strain.

    Then make a batch where you take the R&T slowly to a point of total melt where it's a watery mix, that stays that way when removed from the heat. Heat the JPW, ATF and STP to where it gives off wisps of smoke for about 5-10 min, stir into R&T, then melt the beeswax slowly. Add to batch. Very little straining needed, as the R&T will be fully melted. When you make this style of batch, your lube will be very slick and "wet" feeling, darkish red-brown in color.
    Try it out, and see what you get. If making lube sticks take 5% more beeswax and add to a stick and see what you get.
    I'm getting ready to do a write up on here about my quest using Bens Red in several variances, esp using this last way of making it. Credit goes to Runfiverun for helping me thruout this testing I've done. I just do the shooting!!

  20. #80
    In Remembrance bikerbeans's Avatar
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    41mag,

    What is being strained from the R&T?

    thanks,

    BB

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check