Which bullet caster?

[angus6]

I was going through this a couple years back, I passed on both units and picked up a used Bullet Master instead , gave $2400 unit & molds, have seen 5 so far this year for less $$

Can mix moulds as long as their within 25 gr IIRC

[6bg6ga]

and you just love to hear yourself talk. gawd i have to stop watching these kinda posts

Fine... I'll quit posting

[waksupi]

No need for posts like that on this board.

[LAH]

We're re-doing the Mark IV right now. I have prototypes going out to a couple of different customers in the next few weeks. When I get some feedback on them I'll be ready to make a batch of them. The time frame of when they'll be ready is somewhere in the 3-6 month range, depending on how much time I can spend on them. Pricing is going to be as close to the master caster as I can get it for the base model and then there'll be optional features that add speed and convenience available as well. The molds are attached using quick release pins which makes mold changing take almost no time, and they also can't come loose. The molds are held on the current machine by allen style cap screws, which take a minute or two to swap out and need to be tightened down once more after the molds get hot.

Look forward to the new machine. I do however like the allen type cap screw set up on my Mark II better than the pin retainer on my Master Caster. That just me.

[ballisti-cast]

It wouldn't be any harder to put a screw in it then a pin. The issue with the screws now is that you have to make sure they don't come loose. The new style mold holders go around both the top and bottom of the mold key so threading the mold carrier and using a screw won't be anymore work and there'll be twice as many threads grabbing the screw so that should help keep them tight. I'll make it an option.

[LAH]

It's a pain to change moulds on my MC. You try to hold the mould/carrier still with one hand, hold the punch with another, swing the hammer with my third hand, & still catch the pin & mould. When going back in with the mould you have to hold the carrier, the mould, the pin, the punch & the hammer. It's just easier for me to do the screw thing but again that's just me.

[finishman2000]

use a punch to hold the other side mold while you pin the other one.

[ReloaderFred]

use a punch to hold the other side mold while you pin the other one.

That's how I do it. Once you get the mold in place, just drop the punch into the other hole and let the spring tension of the carrier hold them while you drive in the roll pin.

Hope this helps.

Fred

[RoGrrr]

Angus
I've been doing a fair amount of research yet I hadn't heard this line of thinking. Not that it would have changed my approach, but I recently bought a Bullet Master with 16 moulds.

Why do you say within 25 grains ? Is that due to cooling time differences ?

I have a full set of 9mm 158 grain moulds, all the same. I also have a number of 45 moulds, some 185 grains and some 200 grains and some 9mm SWCs. I'd like to find some 230s or even 255s.

I was going through this a couple years back, I passed on both units and picked up a used Bullet Master instead , gave $2400 unit & molds, have seen 5 so far this year for less $$

Can mix moulds as long as their within 25 gr IIRC

[LAH]

That's how I do it. Once you get the mold in place, just drop the punch into the other hole and let the spring tension of the carrier hold them while you drive in the roll pin.

Hope this helps.

Fred

Thanks guys, need to purchase a second punch.