I did a search and read both the Dixie Slug Tri-ball threads, lots of good information there, but I still have some questions about needing buffer.
I'm loading two-ball, 2-3/4" 16-gauge shells for fun and to get my two single-shot guns out of the safe and played with more. Both guns are smoothbores with at least modified chokes. I'm using Remington hulls and SP-16 wads with the ribs inside each petal. A .562" Lee roundball cast of air-cooled wheel weights fits perfectly in the wad inside the shell, and passes the choke inside the wad with a firm push of a cleaning rod, so I figured the ribs would actually help get a hard, undersized ball out of the guns without damaging the choked part of the barrel. I've shot a handfull of them in both guns and they work pretty well. Choke gauge indicates zero damage to the chokes, so that's a good thing.
My concerns were the balls squishing together when fired and swelling enough to damage the chokes, but Dixie Slugs indicated that wheel weight metal was sufficient to keep that from happening. I also noticed he uses buffer (spherical, I think) to help support the ball column. I only have the BPI original compacting buffer on hand, so I vibrated that under the first ball and in between the two after adding the second. The buffer pretty much is ruining the cases by making a thick, melted mess inside the hulls, and it also makes a mess in the barrel.
So do I really need any buffer with a two-ball load? I could care less about accuracy really, I'm looking to get both balls on a milk jug at 25 yards and it does that no problem, but if I could eliminate the filler I'd be a happy camper. Not sure exactly if the filler is for support or patterning. If I need it, should I be using spherical filler, or maybe a cereal filler like cream of wheat?
Any help would be greatly appreciated from any of you with experience loading two or three-ball shotgun loads.
Gear