Shiloh's and C Sharps don't look quite so expensive now do they?
Shiloh's and C Sharps don't look quite so expensive now do they?
Long range rules, the rest drool.
that was already done, the tang is crooked, off center, in the wrong place,west of memphis!.i'm having a hard time posting pictures on this site, so you aren't getting the right view ahrgggg!
Needed shims on one side to get them true. I use brass sheets folded and hammered then slip them under the low side. Actually the Quigley is the only one that didn't need a shim out of five rifles.
Owen
What happens to some actions, is that they warp when they are color case hardened. Not unusual at all. That is why people like Turnbull will color single shot actions, but not bolt actions. A single shot will still function okay, a bolt action, not necessarily.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
If the sight runs pretty much parallel with the bore, it doesn't look to be so far off that simply zeroing the tang sight for windage, and then moving the front sight to obtain mechanical zero would throw things to bad.
Long range rules, the rest drool.
the picture doesn't do it justice,the front sight would fall out if you adjusted it enough and the rear sight would be 35 minutes left,,, pretty poor,,,,
Did you say the holes were welded up and redone? I wonder if the smith drilled the holes centerline to the bore? If they are centerline, but leaning to the right it's a tough one. Hard to deal with and make it look good. I would probably rather have the tang drilled dead center, and adjust the sight to the right. It's hard to say what is better.
If I shimmed it, i would use a narrow piece of shim on each end and JB weld with a good release agent under the sight.
After the JB weld is set, remove the shims and fill the spots where they were.
A little lamp black (soot) in the JB weld would make it look better.
What do the tangs look like without the wood on it? And how does the wood look on the tangs? Could they be "adjusted", welded and redrilled? And the wood refitted? Do you see what I'm getting at? Some tang warping during manufactor. But if it is new, I would look at the warranty first.
Some questions: if you hold the gun solid with the top of the barrel level, is the front globe level? Is the top of the barrel level and both sides of the breech vertical? Is the side rail of the tang sight vertical and/or the top level when barrel level? If the tang sight is lowered forward, does a line through it run up the center of the barrel or is it off to one side irrespective of where the eye piece is or the tang wind adjustment is parallel to the barrel? Or does the line up the center of the tang not run parallel to the barrel center?
I would suggest trying the through bolt of the receiver that is visible in your picture to hold the rear of the tang down and see what happens. That is what we did with my Rolling Block as the tang holes were drilled off to one side and even shimming the tang base did not help. A different screw might be required and then after lining everything up, redrill the front tang screw with an accurate drill press.
It's crooked alright! I wouldn't mess with the tang, but either machine/file the shoe to match the tang or make an asymmetric shim to fit under the shoe. Any gunsmith worth his salt should be able to fix it.
Cap'n Morgan
Was the sight factory drilled and factory mounted? If so they should take care of it. If it was done by a smith he should. In the pictures it just looks like the sight needs to be plumbed up. That has to be done on any tang sight. My Godson's Pedersoli was the only one I have ever put a tang sight on that didn't need adjustment. Some of thee sights are designed with a concave on the bottom so you can file one side or the other to plumb the sight.
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
Don't be to sure, it takes very little adjustment on the front sight to make a lot of difference.
Plus you could always install a windage adjustable front and get a mechanical zero with it.
Or simply take the rifle to a gunsmith , not a gun parts changer, and have the holes plugged, and then drilled and tapped and the rear sight plumbed properly...
All the while remembering all the advise you recieved about how much better buy the Pedersoli was than one of the Montana built guns.
Long range rules, the rest drool.
at these prices, it seems more like an expensive gun kit for wankers doesn't it?
Are you assuming that the problem is the manufacturers fault?
They use jigs to drill holes so I have a hunch the problem with this rifle was caused by someone after it left the factory.
Because of the length of tang sights, the process of mounting a sight is a lot more difficult to do well than it appears. Getting them straight up and down and also to fold back exactly on the centerline is not simple and is very easy to get a little bit off. A tiny error gets multiplied numerous times because of the tall/long sight.
A photo taken from the center line of the gun would be very helpful in seeing where the problem is.
Longwood , no those rifles are drilled at the factory, the sights are made in the same factory, you figure it out.....
Long range rules, the rest drool.
Your use of the terms 'tang' and 'tower' are proving to be a problem.
Half of the time, when you say 'tang' it seems you are referring to the 'sight'. Other times it seems to be the rear projection of the receiver ... that actual tang embedded in the wood.
And when you say 'tower' it's unclear what you mean.
Is that the 'base' of the sight?
The 'base' is screwed to the 'tang' of the receiver, and the 'staff' is the tall part of the sight.
Longwood said, "It can be repaired. Any good smith can weld up the holes that were drilled and tapped wrong and redo them."
Is that the statement you responded to when you said, "that was already done, the tang is crooked, off center, in the wrong place,west of memphis!."
If we are getting the correct understanding, that means the tang on the rifle had holes drilled in the wrong place, so you sent it to a gunsmith who welded them shut and redrilled the holes ... again in the wrong place.
And ... we are to believe that Lee Shaver, a well-known gunsmith with a good reputation, did this kind of shoddy work.
CM
Retired...TWICE. Now just raisin' cows and livin' on borrowed time.
called the beauchamps today, sent them an email and within an hour had a request from pedersoli for a photo of the gun with the tang site removed and a cleaning rod inserted through the muzzle and extending over the reciever tang, that should get a perspective on things for them to remedy the problem, probably a new gun... i'll keep you posted, by the way the recievers are forged and machined, not cast.
That last picture is worth a thousand words.
That photo sure does make a statement.
It looks to me like the action is crooked not the tang.
Or,,, the front of the action may be drilled and faced crooked.
The tang looks to be straight with the rear portion of the action so,,,,
I bet you get new rifle.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |