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Thread: Just a few tips for new rifle casters.

  1. #41
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:06 PM.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  2. #42
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    I just bought my first dilion 550, and it'll be here in 2 days. I've learned a ton on this thread. Thank you all for taking the time to post useful info for those of us that are just getting started.

  3. #43
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodsteel View Post
    The truth is, this is a message that I sent to a new guy here (at least new to rifle casting) that was having trouble getting his boolits to work right.
    I spent so much time typing it out, I saved it on my computer so that I would have it if I ever needed it again. Then I figured I would just make it into a post here so that you guys have a chance to shoot it full of holes, and if it ends up being bullet proof, I can reference it easily.
    The thing I love about this place is that the information is solid. Its as solid as a math book once you get under the surface. Real Booleteers are solid on every point down to the minutest detail, and if there is a discrepancy we start a thread and beat it to a pulp until solid fact emerges.

    I did mention cerrosafe as a second option, but there are instructions that come with that stuff when you buy it. Also it shrinks with time, so based on that fact, it is an inferior way considering that the only reason you are doing it is to get precision measurements, but I did mention it.
    Also, I didn't go into detail about using a good ammonia based cleaner on the barrel (like Sweets 7.62) after cleaning and followed by cleaning and oiling in order to remove all traces of copper from the bore.
    I also mentioned nothing about feeling for tight and loose spots in the barrel as the slug is pushed through (good info can be had from feeling for this!).
    We need the capability of putting a "like" button on this website for posts like yours. Very informative indeed.

  4. #44
    Boolit Mold
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    Excellent post, very helpful.
    A previous post got me thinking: Do any of the mold makers sell a grab bag of cast boolits from their molds for a shooter to mess with before buying the mold?
    Say 20 count for each mold in a caliber? That way you could get an idea of what style/weight works well in your gun before buying an expensive mold.

  5. #45
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    After reading the post all the way through I have decided that shooting cast in rifles for me is way too complicated. I don't have the space or tools to do all that . Thanks for saving me a lot of frustration.
    lt

  6. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by luvtn View Post
    After reading the post all the way through I have decided that shooting cast in rifles for me is way too complicated. I don't have the space or tools to do all that . Thanks for saving me a lot of frustration.
    lt
    Don't give up so quick... look at the .30-06....take a sized case, bell it enough so a bullet starts using a center punch...seat a cast bullet (150~180 grains) unsized, that you can hand lube. Use a std primer and 13.0 grains of Red Dot or 15.0 of Unique...seat the bullet just long enough that it barely touches the Leade. You will be delighted with the results. One can perfect this and on some calibers one has to do a lot of perfecting... Typically the .22 calibers are the most challenging. I shoot 9 different rifle calibers with cast bullets and only the .22's were difficult.

  7. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodsteel View Post
    I just want to thank everyone who has given kind words here.
    When I wrote this, I just opened Word, and did a data dump to answer a guy's questions. I worked on it for a couple hours. I would type, then think, then type some more. I reread it about three times before sending it to the feller.
    When I posted this here, I just wanted to be sure that I never had to do it again cause it actually took a bit of time, and I was afraid that I might leave some things out of I did it again just cause I wouldn't have the energy to do it twice.
    Never thought it would be stuck, and I never thought it would actually be read by so many people! Matter of fact, I figured that everybody would pile on me about details that I got wrong (I've still got my fingers crossed BTW LOL!)
    I'm just so glad that I was able to give back in some way.
    Again, thanks for the kind words, and please remember that there are probably some flaws in some of what I wrote. I'm still just an expert in training like you, and I don't know everything. Double check what I wrote with your own results!
    Again, thanks fellers!
    I'd just like to add one refinement. When you charge the cases, place in a loading block take a flashlight and look into each and every case to check the powder level...you want to make certain that you have charged all cases and you didn't double charge them. Should you fire an uncharged cases the bullet could get stuck in the barrel .....firing the next one could very well burst the barrel.

  8. #48
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    Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:06 PM.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  9. #49
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    Then you weren't paying very close attention with the flashlight inspection. The difference between a regular and double-charge of Unique in an '06 case is about 5/8", but if one is new to visual inspections it's a good idea to intentionally double-charge a case for comparison to a normal charge so you can calibrate your eyeball. (just don't forget to dump it out, eh?) I either use two blocks or work to opposite ends like you suggest, but I check with a pen light anyway as extra insurance.

    Gear

  10. #50
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    Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:06 PM.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  11. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by goodsteel View Post
    Setting up a loading block and charging all the cases by moving it under the powder measure is a very dangerous practice. I'm not going to depend on my eyeball to tell me when I have a good charge. It's very easy to put a double charge of unique in a 30-06 that way. You'll have to beat the bolt open with a rubber mallet, in order to observe how the headstamp was almost obliterated from being smashed flat as a flitter, then you'll thank your lucky stars you were shooting a Winchester model 70 and not your 30-30. Then you might come to the conclusion that if you dump all your primed cases into a butter tub, take one out and charge it, stick it in the loading block, then grab another one and charge it, stick it in the loading block next to the first one, etc etc etc, it makes it virtually impossible to double charge or squib load a cartridge. You might just decide that it's worth moving brass around a little and really doesn't cost much in time.
    Not that I would know anything about that.....

    OMG I don't charge the cases in a loading block---I charge them and them place them in the loading block---

  12. #52
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    I charge them then seat the boolit in place.
    habit I picked up long ago.

  13. #53
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    Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:06 PM.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  14. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    I charge them then seat the boolit in place.
    habit I picked up long ago.
    Whatever works...I don't like that method as one gets greasy fingers

  15. #55
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    re: Protecting the Crown while Slugging

    Tim, IMO this is one of the best stickies on the forum!

    The following pictures illustrate a good way to protect the muzzle from the rod being used to push the sizing slug through the bore or hammer the slug when taking chamber dimensions. I've been cleaning my M-1 and M1-A this way for decades, now. I learned these tricks back in the 70s and 80s from the old timers at our NRA High Power match. I used a tubing cutter and a .243 Win. case for this particular muzzle protector. Using different caliber bottle necked cases, this method could be used on different caliber rifles. Tt.



    Here's a similar tip for the M1-A, a 12 ga. shell is the right size to fit the flash suppressor, just drill out the primer pocket to fit your rod:

    "Treetop"
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    "Accuracy has a suppressive power all by itself."
    Lt. Gen. George Flynn, USMC

    “The Second Amendment was not written to protect your right to shoot deer.
    It was written to protect your right to shoot tyrants…”
    Judge Andrew Napolitano

  16. #56
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    Thanks for the great ideas Treetop!!

  17. #57
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    Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:07 PM.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

  18. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    I charge them then seat the boolit in place.
    habit I picked up long ago.
    That's a good one, too. Add the Richard Lee tip of upending each case just before charging to make sure it started out empty and it's even more foolproof.

    I still batch-charge and use a light for final inspection because powder can do strange strange things like bridge or clump in the measure, or get static cling. You won't see that just charging each case and stuffing a boolit on top. I can usually see to within a couple grains if a charge is correct by comparing levels of all in the block. Once checked, all get sealed with a lead kiss and run through the seater die. I NEVER put a boolit on top of powder unless I've made a visual on the powder, even on a progressive and even if that means using a dentist's mirror.

    The only reloading mentor I had when I started did the charge a case, seat a bullet thing, BUT he looked in each one with a light before putting it back in the shell holder. He dumped, weighed, and funneled back in every tenth charge for most stuff, and weighed every charge on some, one at a time, and always immediately seated a bullet on verified powder charges before the case left his hand.

    Gear

  19. #59
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    I charge then seat a bullet. No loading blocks for me. Maybe this is why I dislike using a filler, it changes my pattern and habit.
    Loading blocks scared me already but it got worse when I was shooting and had a few hunks of a stock go flying by me. Rifle being shot next to me got a double charge, stick the bolt, blew the sides of the magazine out. Scared the heck out of me and the shooter. Yes, he was shooting cast.

  20. #60
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    Last edited by MBTcustom; 02-13-2018 at 02:07 PM.
    Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check