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Thread: best expander die

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by UNIQUEDOT View Post
    No sarcasm intended and yes the lee expander is no good for cast bullets. If there is any possible way for anyone to make a better expander plug than an (M) plug please explain the process to me as i just don't see any way to improve on it as it has three steps when it comes to loading cast or you use the two step adjustment for jacketed. I've seen the opinions, but no one has said why they like what they like.
    The goofy steps on the M die is the problem for cast. They work great for jacketed bullets.

    To load truly accurate rifle ammo, case neck tension is rather critical, as is not deforming the boolit or the case neck during seating. This is the whole issue with the M expander, it doesn't facilitate either of these things because the design is flawed. I'll explain:

    If you use the boolit to stretch the case, you are messing things up, and the M die requires the boolit itself to do the expanding of the neck below the first step in the mandrel. Cast boolits tend to get squished slightly and bent when this happens, and the necks can get bent or deformed too. Only slighly, you can't see the difference, but it's there and it's usually enough to get the boolit started crooked.

    Even and consistent case neck tension is the other bugaboo. Getting right at .0015" neck tension on .30-caliber cast boolits seems to work the best for me. One thing I've also noticed is that the brass has a tough time "changing directions" when stretched and compressed. You size the neck down (hopefully no more than needed), then reverse it and expand it back up. To change the shape/size fo the neck the brass must obviously be pushed beyond it's elastic limit. It takes considerable force to reverse the direction the metal moves and expand it, and you want to do this with a steel expander, not the boolit. Thing is, most rifle brass has about a .002-3" elastic limit depending on state of anneal, and the M dies have the "primary" step machined smaller than that. For example the .30 caliber one has a .307/.3105 mandrel and only expands a short part of the case to .3095 at the most after springback. If you're using a .310" boolit, it's having to stretch the .307" part out by forcing the gas check in there, and the brass is right at it's elastic limit. For some cases, it will be beyond the elastic limit, for others even in the same lot maybe not quite up to the elastic limit. Riding this ragged-edge makes for very inconsistent boolit tension, hence the reason I hate the steps. If you're going to make a stepped spud, which is a defective concept, at least make the step only about .0015" or so, so that the brass will be properly stretched and conditioned to function WITHIN its elastic limit when you seat the boolit.

    The ideal expander spud for your particular gun and boolit size will work in conjunction with your sizing die. Size the neck down to where the ID is a couple thousandths below the diameter you want it before seating the boolit, then stretch the brass the other way with a good, parallel-sided expander that's the right size to give you about .0015" smaller than your sized boolit diameter after springback. The expander needs to be long enough to pass clear through the neck and expand the whole thing, and expand it straight in line with the rest of the case. It also needs to bell the mouth a bit so you can start the boolit, and this is an often overlooked thing with expanders: If the bell is part of the expander, it will open the mouth the same way all the way around. If you use a Lee Universal expander or one of the really short pistol PTE expanders, the flaring part isn't guided and centered in the neck by the expander mandrel and thus can stretch the mouth of the case more on one side than the other depending on the condition of the brass, which mind you is never as perfect as we'd like it to be. Having the bellmouth shank doing its thing while the expander spud is keeping it centered and piloted the full length of the neck is important. The M die does do this part, but in many calibers they don't bellmouth properly.

    Now, "what about the parallel part starting the boolit straight?" you say? If the case neck is prepared to the correct dimension and tension, the boolit will go in there straight, because straight is the path of least resistance. If the boolit is having to stretch the brass past its elastic limit like is usually the case with M dies, it can push it any direction it wants because the resistance is the same, hence crooked cartridges with all sorts of runout and uneven cast neck tension on the boolit. The other thing I don't like about the M die is that after seating the boolit, you have lost fully a fourth of the holding surface of the case neck because you stretched it to the point it barely touches the boolit. If you think about it, that's sort of a dumb thing to do. If you use an RCBS or similar expander on your rifle case necks, they will grab the boolit with equal tension from the gas check to the base of the flare, and the flare takes much less length than the "starter" portion that the M die creates. I realize you don't necessarily have to push the second step very far down into the case, but the way they're designed, most of the time you have to to get the mouth open enough to start the boolit.

    So there you go, it's all about proper neck tension, straight necks, and not deforming anything when you seat the boolit because the boolit is only springing the brass open a small amount and staying well within the elastic limit of the brass when seated. You obviously need to co-ordinate your sizing and expanding dies to work the brass a minimum amount, and often you must segregate your brass between rifles if you're really splitting hairs.

    Many of you will argue with me on this and say "I've use and M die for 50 years and never had a problem". Well, fine. If you're happy with what you're doing, then it isn't a problem for you. But for some of us chasing accuracy and higher velocities, these things start to really show up, and the M die won't get you there most of the time.

    Gear

  2. #22
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    +1 for geargnasher's great post.

    I have been slammed in the past for liking the RCBS expander dies.

  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Longwood View Post
    Right,,,
    I bought three different sizes plus a compression plug for less than a 'M' die..
    Cheap enough to modify if needed.
    So I did,,, my flaring dies is a convenient, powder thru die.
    When i went to the sight and looked at them i thought they were way too inexpensive. Don't know how they can offer consistency for that price, but i think i might just try one or two.

  4. #24
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    Many of you will argue with me on this
    Well your post certainly gives a lot of food for thought.

  5. #25
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    Thank you Gear. That was a very well written and detailed post. I can honestly say I learned a lot and am now better equipped to choose the correct expanding die. I was fooling around with my Lee dies and some cast bullets that were given to me. I wanted to see just how much the bullets were sized down. Sure enough the .359 bullets were sized down to .357. I am still new to loading cast bullets so anything new I can learn is always welcome.


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  6. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by FergusonTO35 View Post
    No, its not you're imagination. My Lee expander in 9mm shakes the workbench to death when the case is pulled out of it. Fortunately the Lee Universal expanding die works great, better than any I've ever tried.

    Looks like my post showed up after yours and it looked like I was giving you a hard time. Sorry 'bout that!!
    I had that problem with a die sticking too much and I dusted a little mica powder in it. The kind used on the neck for rifle cartridges. Did the trick.
    BullFrog

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  7. #27
    Longwood
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    Quote Originally Posted by UNIQUEDOT View Post
    When i went to the sight and looked at them i thought they were way too inexpensive. Don't know how they can offer consistency for that price, but i think i might just try one or two.
    A CNC lathe can make them automatically with very little operator input.
    I have a lathe and could make them, but at the price they are asking, why bother.

  8. #28
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    I agree with Gears content absolutely on getting the correct tension without resizing the boolit when seating. However i fail to see where the design of the M die is at fault here so long as it is made to the correct dimensions for the cases and the boolit being used.

    So is the difference 'tween the RCBS and the Lyman dies one of dimensions rather that design?

    I have never see the RCBS die so cannot comment on the design difference between them and the Lyman. I get M die designed spuds cut to the dimensions for my particular boolit case combination and it does work well.

    Does the RCBS die have some inbuilt flexibility to allow the diameter variation necessary?


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  9. #29
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    "The goofy steps on the M die..." As good as the Lyman M dies are..they are not perfect. When I was working with .22 cast, I had the grinder operator set up my expander plug in O.D. grinder, & grind step to a 1 to 2 deg. angle..this will bell mouth ever so slightly..can barely see it & eliminates excess working of case mouths. Worked so well, nearly all of my expanders have this.

  10. #30
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    So given all this info, what dies would be best for shooting cast boolits in 32 S&W Long, 32 H&R and 327 Federal?

    I had a set of dies (Champion, I think) that destroyed a 32 H&R case b/c it was designed for 32 S&W. After it demolished the case, I discovered it had a mouth flare on the sizing and decapping die that could not accomodate the longer brass. Also, the sizing die overworks the brass.

    Anyway, the RCBS Cowboy set doesn't say it will do 32 H&R or 327 Fed, only 32 S&W. Will it handle the longer cases? What's a good die set for all 3, or should I buy 2 or 3 different sets?

    One of the reviewers on Midwayusa.com said the RCBS die set couldn't deal with 32 H&R starline brass...said it was too thick. What do you guys use?

  11. #31
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    "..M die requires the boolit itself to do the expanding of the neck below the first step in the mandrel. Cast boolits tend to get squished slightly and bent when this happens, and the necks can get bent or deformed too. Only slighly, you can't see the difference, but it's there and it's usually enough to get the boolit started crooked."

    I got my first M die in '65. Added several more since and have turned more since I got a good lathe; my experience has been exactly the opposite for both cast and jacketed bullets and I use them for both types. And others agree with me, last I looked both Redding and RCBS has copied it.

    The first part of my M expanders are normal for caliber. The short second step is only a couple-three thousanths larger than proper size bullets to allow the critical heels to enter and start smoothly; it works too. 'Normal' flaring for cast is often much greater than what a properly used M expander does but if actual flaring IS needed it has a step for that too. What's not to love?

    Any tiny 'excessive' working of the case mouth is greatly exceeded by the value of better bullet entry and accuracy. And that second step decreases - eliminates - the need to flare case mouths for most cast bullets. It also helps in seating flat based jacketed bullets without heel damage. All bullets can start straighter when the M is used because there is no excess resistance on one side during that first critical entry; it's quite easy for a die's seating throat to align a bullet when it's already a few thousanths inside the mouth.

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    geargnasher and others who like the RCBS: are you speaking of the standard expanding/flaring/whatever die that RCBS sells for handgun calibers? If not, which one are you speaking of? I'm looking for the best expander to use .358 boolits in 9X19.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  13. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    The goofy steps on the M die is the problem for cast. They work great for jacketed bullets.

    To load truly accurate rifle ammo, case neck tension is rather critical, as is not deforming the boolit or the case neck during seating. This is the whole issue with the M expander, it doesn't facilitate either of these things because the design is flawed. I'll explain:

    If you use the boolit to stretch the case, you are messing things up, and the M die requires the boolit itself to do the expanding of the neck below the first step in the mandrel. Cast boolits tend to get squished slightly and bent when this happens, and the necks can get bent or deformed too. Only slighly, you can't see the difference, but it's there and it's usually enough to get the boolit started crooked.

    Even and consistent case neck tension is the other bugaboo. Getting right at .0015" neck tension on .30-caliber cast boolits seems to work the best for me. One thing I've also noticed is that the brass has a tough time "changing directions" when stretched and compressed. You size the neck down (hopefully no more than needed), then reverse it and expand it back up. To change the shape/size fo the neck the brass must obviously be pushed beyond it's elastic limit. It takes considerable force to reverse the direction the metal moves and expand it, and you want to do this with a steel expander, not the boolit. Thing is, most rifle brass has about a .002-3" elastic limit depending on state of anneal, and the M dies have the "primary" step machined smaller than that. For example the .30 caliber one has a .307/.3105 mandrel and only expands a short part of the case to .3095 at the most after springback. If you're using a .310" boolit, it's having to stretch the .307" part out by forcing the gas check in there, and the brass is right at it's elastic limit. For some cases, it will be beyond the elastic limit, for others even in the same lot maybe not quite up to the elastic limit. Riding this ragged-edge makes for very inconsistent boolit tension, hence the reason I hate the steps. If you're going to make a stepped spud, which is a defective concept, at least make the step only about .0015" or so, so that the brass will be properly stretched and conditioned to function WITHIN its elastic limit when you seat the boolit.

    The ideal expander spud for your particular gun and boolit size will work in conjunction with your sizing die. Size the neck down to where the ID is a couple thousandths below the diameter you want it before seating the boolit, then stretch the brass the other way with a good, parallel-sided expander that's the right size to give you about .0015" smaller than your sized boolit diameter after springback. The expander needs to be long enough to pass clear through the neck and expand the whole thing, and expand it straight in line with the rest of the case. It also needs to bell the mouth a bit so you can start the boolit, and this is an often overlooked thing with expanders: If the bell is part of the expander, it will open the mouth the same way all the way around. If you use a Lee Universal expander or one of the really short pistol PTE expanders, the flaring part isn't guided and centered in the neck by the expander mandrel and thus can stretch the mouth of the case more on one side than the other depending on the condition of the brass, which mind you is never as perfect as we'd like it to be. Having the bellmouth shank doing its thing while the expander spud is keeping it centered and piloted the full length of the neck is important. The M die does do this part, but in many calibers they don't bellmouth properly.

    Now, "what about the parallel part starting the boolit straight?" you say? If the case neck is prepared to the correct dimension and tension, the boolit will go in there straight, because straight is the path of least resistance. If the boolit is having to stretch the brass past its elastic limit like is usually the case with M dies, it can push it any direction it wants because the resistance is the same, hence crooked cartridges with all sorts of runout and uneven cast neck tension on the boolit. The other thing I don't like about the M die is that after seating the boolit, you have lost fully a fourth of the holding surface of the case neck because you stretched it to the point it barely touches the boolit. If you think about it, that's sort of a dumb thing to do. If you use an RCBS or similar expander on your rifle case necks, they will grab the boolit with equal tension from the gas check to the base of the flare, and the flare takes much less length than the "starter" portion that the M die creates. I realize you don't necessarily have to push the second step very far down into the case, but the way they're designed, most of the time you have to to get the mouth open enough to start the boolit.

    So there you go, it's all about proper neck tension, straight necks, and not deforming anything when you seat the boolit because the boolit is only springing the brass open a small amount and staying well within the elastic limit of the brass when seated. You obviously need to co-ordinate your sizing and expanding dies to work the brass a minimum amount, and often you must segregate your brass between rifles if you're really splitting hairs.

    Many of you will argue with me on this and say "I've use and M die for 50 years and never had a problem". Well, fine. If you're happy with what you're doing, then it isn't a problem for you. But for some of us chasing accuracy and higher velocities, these things start to really show up, and the M die won't get you there most of the time.

    Gear


    I will add only one thing to Gear's great post. That is neck thickness. If the case neck is thicker on one side the thin side will expand more than the thick side and produce an off-center neck. The only way to correct this is to turn the case necks to a uniform thickness with a neck turning tool. After turning the case necks to a uniform thickness you may find that your sizing die will not size the necks enough to give the desired tension which will then require die's that utilize a sizing bushing such as the Redding bushing neck die

    I fully realize that these steps are not required for hunting or practice ammo but for the person looking for one hole groups every little bit can help. Neck turning does not apply to straight wall cases as used in most handgun ammo.



    Larry

  14. #34
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    "Gear has spoken very highly of RCBS's new "expanding" dies -- reckon I need to look into them. ---- Why bother? it can't possibly be an improvement over an (M) die could it? "

    No, it can't be. But they can be, and are, copies of Lyman's "M" expanders, ditto Redding's copies of the same design. Redding and RCBS didn't do that without valid reasons.
    Last edited by 1hole; 07-11-2012 at 09:06 PM.

  15. #35
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    Another company who makes all types of expanders for all die sizes.

    http://www.ch4d.com/catalog/dies/expanding

    I use tapered expanders for some case work for wildcats.

    Take care,

    r1kk1

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