Percussion hammer question

[William Yanda]

Friends:
I am relatively new at the ML game. Half a century with rimfire, thanks, Dad. Over 30 yrs rimfire thanks to our common Uncle. But my first ML got me in the casting mood. I found one at a yard sale Memorial Day. Missing the wedge and tang. The wedge is on its way, and I found a source for the tang, but the hammer has a v-shaped notch at the top where it contacts the cap. Is this a manufacturing flaw, or is it evidence of much use, possibly with large charges? It's a CVA Hawken. I know they have their issues. But this is not a $500 inline. It's not even a $350 inline.

Restored-repaired really, it will make an entry level gun for someone. When I inquired about the price, I also asked about a recumbent exerciser also for sale. MLW has been looking for a recumbent bicycle exerciser.When I countered his $60 with $50, the owner said ; "For both? Sold.". He couldn't wait to help get the exerciser loaded. Comparing the price, and the expense of the parts, the only way I make out is to value the exerciser high. But pleasing my wife gets me points that are beyond value.

I'm hoping someone with more ML experience will help me out here.

Thanks
Bill

[Tatume]

The notch makes it easier to remove a stuck, fired percussion cap. Usually they fall right out, but sometimes you have to dig them out with a pick or knife point.

[sharps4590]

Tatume is right, the notch is not a flaw, most are made that way. It also hopefully throws the exploding bits of cap forward and away from the face of the shooter.

My first "decent" rifle was a CVA Mountain Rifle....a very long time ago....and yes, they have their quirks but mine always shot pretty darn good. Good enough to win several matches and a lot of prizes over the years and take more than a few deer. I gave it to my oldest son 12-13 years ago and he's still using it to hunt.

[Boerrancher]

I don't know about what your area is like for traditional ML's but around here if the bore is in good shape on the barrel it is worth $75 to $100, and the lock if it works fine is worth another $50. I don't see how you got hurt at all on the price. Once you get it cleaned up and looking good it should be more than worth the money and time you have had to put in to it.

CVA made a good gun for the money. I have owned lots of them over the years, and every one of them shot quite well. One of my first MLs was a CVA Hawken, probably like the one you just picked up. It was a fine shooter that I probably should have held on to but I was just a kid at the time and was going through the bigger, better, faster, phase. Got rid of a lot of guns I should have kept going through that phase.

Best wishes,

Joe

[docone31]

That notch is there for a reason.
Stuck caps is one of them, mis fitting caps it also helps, and if there is a blow out, the notch helps to direct the flame away from the shooter.
My Cabelas does not have a notch, and I get more hang fires then the CVA.

[waksupi]

A file, or a (gasp) Dremel will make the notch for you. Cap locks should have them.

[Hanshi]

The information posted is entirely correct. The hammers are indeed made with a notch to keep caps from sticking and resisting removal. In fact, I personally have never seen a percussion hammer without one.

Don't be fooled by the lower prices and so-so fit and finish of these old CVAs and other imports such as Traditions. I've owned (and still own 3) several of these guns and they are usually capable of fine accuracy rivaling custom guns. I have an old CVA Mountain Rifle - I lack the lock, trigger and tang - and intend to rebuild it into a usable rifle. Enjoy.

[405]

The hammer notch is seen on even the earliest percussions.

Here's an original Springfield M1842. The M1842 was made from 1844-55 at both the Harpers Ferry and Springfield armories and was the first US regular issue percussion longarm. Also, it was the last US regular issue smoothbore musket.

[William Yanda]

Thanks everyone. The seller agreed that the notch is appropriate, although my Thompson Center Hawken doesn't have it. When I got home this week, the wedge, tang and screw were waiting.
A few minutes with a swiss file, a few strokes actually, and the barrel and tang mate nicely. That takes care of fit, now to get the finish part under control. Tomorrow I will get some wet or dry paper in some fine grades. I could case harden it to match the lock or cold blue it to try to match the barrel. I have a while to think about that choice.
Bill

[Boerrancher]

I would try to keep it as original as possible by bluing it. If you want a really good blue on it, go buy some potassium nitrate, and boil the piece in a saturated potassium nitrate solution until it turns a nice blue. Once it turns as dark as you want it, remove it, and rinse it in plain boiling water, then hose it down with WD 40 while it is still hot, then let it cool. Just remember the better you polish the piece before you attempt to blue it the better it will turn out.

Best wishes,

Joe

[William Yanda]

Boerrancher
Thanks for the advise. Like most other projects, preparation is 75% of the key to a successful end. I did not know about the potassium nitrate. Is there such a thing as too dark when discussing blueing steel?
Another question: What is the best preventative for rust on the backside of the lock and trigger mechanism?
Bill

[405]

Another question: What is the best preventative for rust on the backside of the lock and trigger mechanism?
Bill

Two reasons fouling/rust can accumulate there- blow back when firing and/or sloppy cleaning methods- where BP residue and cleaner is sloshed out of the nipple and runs down behind the lock and under the barrel/tang. One thing that helps prevent blow back from getting in under barrel, tang and lock area is a good fit. For cleaning, if you can or so desire, remove barrel and lock for cleaning-- use hot soapy water, hot rinse, dry and oil. Warmed parts dry much quicker. Since the trigger is farther away from the blow back it usually only requires cleaning and oiling once in a blue moon depending on how much fouling starts accumulating down there. I don't really worry about the trigger on most of mine. Welcome to the dark side.

[Boerrancher]

Is there such a thing as too dark when discussing blueing steel?

Bill

The best thing to do is bend a piece of steal coat hanger and hook it on your part you want blued. That way you can lift it out of the solution from every so often to keep track of how blue it gets. There is a chance you can get exactly the same color but it is difficult because it is most likely a different steel, and most certainly a different salt than was used on the barrel, but you should be able to get it close enough that it will not be that noticeable, and the average person won't even realize it is a retro fitted part.

Best wishes,

Joe