I used Gulf-Wax or scrap candles from 1956 to 2011 with complete satisfaction.
Geargnasher convinced me to try sawdust and I must admit it does a better job.
.
I used Gulf-Wax or scrap candles from 1956 to 2011 with complete satisfaction.
Geargnasher convinced me to try sawdust and I must admit it does a better job.
.
First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
More at: http://reloadingtips.com/
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian."
- Henry Ford
You didn't say wether you are smelting the range lead first.
Raw range lead with dirt and jackets would never get close
to my bottom pour RCBS, only slag free ingots go in there.
Smelting outdoors, I use cheap cooking oil, it is thin, spreads itself
in a film that clings to the dirt, jackets or clips, and lights off easily.
You probably have some in the kitchen, give it a try.
In the casting pot I use sawdust made on my chopsaw from a
2x4 of southern yellow pine that has one huge sappy knot along it,
the dust is yellow and a bit sticky, works great, 3" of wood = coffee can.
+1 on learning all you can from Glen Fryxell.
I learned alot from Geargnasher too.
.
Go to your friendly hardware store and ask for a fist full of wood paint stirrers ... FREE
Regards
John
I mostly use crayons that restaurants give my kids. Also paint stir sticks from time to time.
Sent from my Lumia 900 using Board Express
Wax ring cause I have a sh!! load, I scoup a little with a paint stir stick.
Gear, crayons = wax = carbon, right?
Sent from my Lumia 900 using Board Express
Scott, there's a lot more to it than that, especially with scrap alloy. Sawdust is what you want, read Glen's article on fluxing at the LASC website and you'll see what I mean.
Just saying "I use wax rings" or "I use crayons" doesn't really help anyone if you don't understand what it is you're accomplishing (or not) with using it. Grease/wax/oil doesn't do the whole job.
Gear
I cast bullets using gulf-wax or scrap candles for over 50 years and I thought I was perfectly happy.
Gear convinced me I was kidding myself that in fact I was not yet completely happy. I just didn't know how miserable I really was.
He convinced me to try sawdust and I must admit it does a better job. And the dirtier the alloy the more it outperforms paraffin.
I am not chemically inclined so I don't really understand the chemistry of fluxing but I can observe the result.
Try it. You will like it.
.
First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
More at: http://reloadingtips.com/
"Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian."
- Henry Ford
Ok, looks like I better start sawing some wood in preparation for the arrival of my Lyman kit. Ordered it Friday and I'm squirmin' to make some boolits!!
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
Bulk lots of range scrap for ingots- used motor oil. I have gallons of it from working on engines. Free. Good source of carbon for a reductant. Burns off nicely.
Stir the casting pot with chopsticks from chinese takeout. Works good and also free.
Due to market fluctuations I am no longer buying range scrap jackets.
Sic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc
I have sawdust and used & new motor oil in abundance. Now, with either one is it best to burn the top off or just ladle it out after stirring it in? Should the sawdust be fine, coarse, or does it matter? Yeah, I'm a fluxing newbie. All my casting until now has been done with a buddy who had already fluxed it.
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
The used engine oil isn't really necessary if you just use good clean sawdust or wood chips and stir the pot well, but if you think the stench helps the process, go right ahead! Avoid anything from plywood, MDF, particle board, OSB, or pressure-treated lumber.
Gear
My neighbor just cut down two dead pine trees. I spread out a tarp to catch the cuttings made by the chainsaw. I'll get more when the large pieces are cut up to be hauled away. So far I've filled a 5 gallon bucket and it was free.
Tony
I use SAW DUST. But you have to scrape the sides and bottom with a wooden stick preferably a Oak or similar hard wood. Make sure you dip the wooden stick in slow the first time of every batch to release the moisture in the wood slow.
Since I have been using saw dust and scraping the bottom and sides my bottom pour pot has not plugged. Whatever flux you use, be sure to scrape to help release junk that is trapped.
I'm guessing any organic material, Carbon is the answer.
I use a pine wood closet bar to stir with (leftover chunk from a remodel) and used motor oil as flux. Works great and as cheap as I can think of.
Reloading Data Project - (in retirement)
http://sourceforge.net/projects/reloadersrfrnce/
It's the carbon from the charred (burned) saw dust that does the fluxing magic. It needs to be stirred (after toasting to remove moisture) into the melt (with a stick) and then scraped (with a spatula) from the pot surfaces, under the melt. This brings any trash from the melt and pot surface to the top, for removal. When your done, you'll be surprised how clean your pot is, no mater what it had stuck to it before.
I've used lube, candles, parfine, grease, oil, and bought flux, but never again.
I used a lot of stuff over the years.
I read here to try sawdust or pet bedding. Worked great. Then I read here that someone recommended pellets.
I use pellets from my pellet stove now.
I wet a few (repeat, few, they really swell up) so they break up, then use them after drying them.
The carbon, or actually the combustion reaction that creates carbon and carbon monoxide, reduces the oxides to elements. The carbohydrates in the sawdust doe the real "fluxing".
Gear
I tried out candle wax last night, I have a bunch of small candles left over from my wedding. It works great, flames up without being lit. It seemed to work as well as bullet stick lube, which is pricey just to be used as flux. I do have sawdust but its outside in a big pile and probably full of moisture. Nonetheless I will give it a try sometime. Got used motor oil in abundance too. Thanks for all your advice guys!
Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |