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Thread: Low cost choices for fluxing?

  1. #21
    Boolit Master


    williamwaco's Avatar
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    I used Gulf-Wax or scrap candles from 1956 to 2011 with complete satisfaction.

    Geargnasher convinced me to try sawdust and I must admit it does a better job.

    .
    First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
    More at: http://reloadingtips.com/

    "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
    government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian."
    - Henry Ford

  2. #22
    Boolit Buddy
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    You didn't say wether you are smelting the range lead first.

    Raw range lead with dirt and jackets would never get close
    to my bottom pour RCBS, only slag free ingots go in there.

    Smelting outdoors, I use cheap cooking oil, it is thin, spreads itself
    in a film that clings to the dirt, jackets or clips, and lights off easily.
    You probably have some in the kitchen, give it a try.

    In the casting pot I use sawdust made on my chopsaw from a
    2x4 of southern yellow pine that has one huge sappy knot along it,
    the dust is yellow and a bit sticky, works great, 3" of wood = coffee can.

    +1 on learning all you can from Glen Fryxell.

    I learned alot from Geargnasher too.
    .

  3. #23
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    Go to your friendly hardware store and ask for a fist full of wood paint stirrers ... FREE
    Regards
    John

  4. #24
    Boolit Buddy
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    I mostly use crayons that restaurants give my kids. Also paint stir sticks from time to time.

    Sent from my Lumia 900 using Board Express

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by ScottJ View Post
    I mostly use crayons that restaurants give my kids. Also paint stir sticks from time to time.

    Sent from my Lumia 900 using Board Express
    Why?

    Gear

  6. #26
    Boolit Buddy Huntducks's Avatar
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    Wax ring cause I have a sh!! load, I scoup a little with a paint stir stick.

  7. #27
    Boolit Buddy
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    Gear, crayons = wax = carbon, right?

    Sent from my Lumia 900 using Board Express

  8. #28
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    Scott, there's a lot more to it than that, especially with scrap alloy. Sawdust is what you want, read Glen's article on fluxing at the LASC website and you'll see what I mean.

    Just saying "I use wax rings" or "I use crayons" doesn't really help anyone if you don't understand what it is you're accomplishing (or not) with using it. Grease/wax/oil doesn't do the whole job.

    Gear

  9. #29
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by geargnasher View Post
    Scott, there's a lot more to it than that, especially with scrap alloy. Sawdust is what you want, read Glen's article on fluxing at the LASC website and you'll see what I mean.


    Gear
    I cast bullets using gulf-wax or scrap candles for over 50 years and I thought I was perfectly happy.

    Gear convinced me I was kidding myself that in fact I was not yet completely happy. I just didn't know how miserable I really was.

    He convinced me to try sawdust and I must admit it does a better job. And the dirtier the alloy the more it outperforms paraffin.

    I am not chemically inclined so I don't really understand the chemistry of fluxing but I can observe the result.

    Try it. You will like it.


    .
    First reload: .22 Hornet. 1956.
    More at: http://reloadingtips.com/

    "Any man who thinks he can be happy and prosperous by letting the
    government take care of him better take a closer look at the American Indian."
    - Henry Ford

  10. #30
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    Ok, looks like I better start sawing some wood in preparation for the arrival of my Lyman kit. Ordered it Friday and I'm squirmin' to make some boolits!!
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  11. #31
    Boolit Master evan price's Avatar
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    Bulk lots of range scrap for ingots- used motor oil. I have gallons of it from working on engines. Free. Good source of carbon for a reductant. Burns off nicely.

    Stir the casting pot with chopsticks from chinese takeout. Works good and also free.
    Due to market fluctuations I am no longer buying range scrap jackets.

    Sic gorgiamus allos subjectatos nunc

  12. #32
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    I have sawdust and used & new motor oil in abundance. Now, with either one is it best to burn the top off or just ladle it out after stirring it in? Should the sawdust be fine, coarse, or does it matter? Yeah, I'm a fluxing newbie. All my casting until now has been done with a buddy who had already fluxed it.
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

  13. #33
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    The used engine oil isn't really necessary if you just use good clean sawdust or wood chips and stir the pot well, but if you think the stench helps the process, go right ahead! Avoid anything from plywood, MDF, particle board, OSB, or pressure-treated lumber.

    Gear

  14. #34
    Boolit Master
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    My neighbor just cut down two dead pine trees. I spread out a tarp to catch the cuttings made by the chainsaw. I'll get more when the large pieces are cut up to be hauled away. So far I've filled a 5 gallon bucket and it was free.

    Tony

  15. #35
    Boolit Master


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    I use SAW DUST. But you have to scrape the sides and bottom with a wooden stick preferably a Oak or similar hard wood. Make sure you dip the wooden stick in slow the first time of every batch to release the moisture in the wood slow.

    Since I have been using saw dust and scraping the bottom and sides my bottom pour pot has not plugged. Whatever flux you use, be sure to scrape to help release junk that is trapped.

    I'm guessing any organic material, Carbon is the answer.

  16. #36
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    I use a pine wood closet bar to stir with (leftover chunk from a remodel) and used motor oil as flux. Works great and as cheap as I can think of.
    Reloading Data Project - (in retirement)
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  17. #37
    Boolit Grand Master

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    It's the carbon from the charred (burned) saw dust that does the fluxing magic. It needs to be stirred (after toasting to remove moisture) into the melt (with a stick) and then scraped (with a spatula) from the pot surfaces, under the melt. This brings any trash from the melt and pot surface to the top, for removal. When your done, you'll be surprised how clean your pot is, no mater what it had stuck to it before.
    I've used lube, candles, parfine, grease, oil, and bought flux, but never again.

  18. #38
    Longwood
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    I used a lot of stuff over the years.
    I read here to try sawdust or pet bedding. Worked great. Then I read here that someone recommended pellets.
    I use pellets from my pellet stove now.
    I wet a few (repeat, few, they really swell up) so they break up, then use them after drying them.

  19. #39
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    The carbon, or actually the combustion reaction that creates carbon and carbon monoxide, reduces the oxides to elements. The carbohydrates in the sawdust doe the real "fluxing".

    Gear

  20. #40
    Boolit Grand Master FergusonTO35's Avatar
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    I tried out candle wax last night, I have a bunch of small candles left over from my wedding. It works great, flames up without being lit. It seemed to work as well as bullet stick lube, which is pricey just to be used as flux. I do have sawdust but its outside in a big pile and probably full of moisture. Nonetheless I will give it a try sometime. Got used motor oil in abundance too. Thanks for all your advice guys!
    Currently casting and loading: .32 Auto, .380 Auto, .38 Special, 9X19, .357 Magnum, .257 Roberts, 6.5 Creedmoor, .30 WCF, .308 WCF, .45-70.

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
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