Corrosive bore cleaner

[JASON50CAL]

What is the best bore cleaner to use after firing corrosive ammo. It seems like i still get rust after i clean them and they set for a while, I even tried blackpowder solvent and still get rust

[oneokie]

Windex with ammonia, followed by hot soapy water to remove the ammonia. Then a good gun oil.

[zuke]

I picked up 24 can's of this stuff at $2.99/dozen 25 year's ago.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Vintage-WWII...item2570a168ea

[swheeler]

Hot soapy water followed by a good drying and an oily patch.

[Char-Gar]

It really takes water to get rid of the corrosive salts. Hot soapy water or old GI Bore cleaner like Zuke has mention get the job done. The GI bore cleaner has lots and lots of water in it. Smell terrible, but works well.

[joec]

I'm trying something new on my cowboy action guns which I've been shooting pyrodex through. I had to go back and clean again a few days later though I wasn't having a rust problem. I mixed a batch equal parts of Murphy's Oil Soap, Hydrogen Peroxide and Rubbing alcohol then either straight Ballistol or Bore Butter 1000 depending on how long it will sit for the lube. I have also used simple green but it does have water in it also which bothers me a bit though if dried then oiled good in most cases shouldn't be a problem. It just bothers me a bit is all.

[Ed in North Texas]

Any of the copper removing bore cleaners containing ammonia will do an excellent job. My preference is Sweet's 7.62 because I find it to be one of the more aggressive copper cleaners. If you are firing corrosive primed ammo, it is usually military (either pre-mid 50s US, or foreign - particularly ComBloc) and will have jacketed bullets. Kill two birds with one shot and get rid of the copper and the corrosive salts with one cleaner. The above suggestions will remove the salts, and the powder fouling, but not the jacket fouling.

Ed

[joec]

Any of the copper removing bore cleaners containing ammonia will do an excellent job. My preference is Sweet's 7.62 because I find it to be one of the more aggressive copper cleaners. If you are firing corrosive primed ammo, it is usually military (either pre-mid 50s US, or foreign - particularly ComBloc) and will have jacketed bullets. Kill two birds with one shot and get rid of the copper and the corrosive salts with one cleaner. The above suggestions will remove the salts, and the powder fouling, but not the jacket fouling.

Ed

Yes and I would probably add a bit of vinegar to the mix I'm trying for jacketed bullets but with my stuff it is all lead.

[Chicken Thief]

Yes and I would probably add a bit of vinegar to the mix I'm trying for jacketed bullets but with my stuff it is all lead.

Ammonia os a base ie. PH ower 7
Vinegar is an asid ie. PH below 7

So adding vinegar kind of defies the purpose of the ammonia = copper salt builder/copper remower.

The two will neutralise each other and cansel the copper dissolving effect of the ammonia.

But each to his own.

[JASON50CAL]

I used the murphys oil,alcohol and proxide years ago for muzzleloaders alot but swithched, i will have to mix some more up to try.

[Larry Gibson]

Windex with ammonia or Dawn dish soap in hot water to get rid of the intial crud and fouling. Dry imediately and then clean with Hoppe's #9 (It was made 100+ years ago for cleaning corrosive residue out of barrels and still works as good today). I let the barrel soak in Hoppe's over night and then clean and oil (Kroil) the next day. If cupro or copper fouling persists I will use Sweat's or JB bore paste to remove as there will still be corrosive salts under the fouling. You will be surprised at how much the Dawn gets out and then how easily the Hoppe's cleans out the rest.

Larry Gibson

Windex with vinegar works great with BP but as Chicken Thief mentions they cancel each others benifits out if mixed.

[Junior1942]

+ 1 on the Hoppes #9 if you have corrosive and copper. Just corrosive, water works fine.

[Me not you]

Potassium Chloride is the stuff left by corrosive primers. It's a form of salt. Hot water dissolves it and rinses it right out. I usually remove the copper using SWEETs or similar solvent first, then follow up with a hot water rinse. After the water I dry and oil the barrel.

If you want to see what the stuff does, get some of this:
http://www.livestrong.com/article/35...t-substitutes/

Then sprinkle a little on a bare (un-oiled or painted) piece of steel.

[zomby woof]

I would clean up at the range with windex. Make sure you clean the bolt and firing pin etc... I would then coat with #9. I would bring home and clean the barrel until all the copper is out. Either overnight for several days with #9 or something stronger like JB or KG12 etc.. I've never had a problem with this method. My theory is your dealing with salts, nothing cleans up salt better than soap and water. I worried about salt trapped under the copper fouling. that's why it has to all come out.

[Gtek]

Dad was an old school HOLY BLACK NUT. He told me that the hot soapy was the only thing to use.
"J"'s were not used so non issue. He boiled 2 gallon / good squirt in pot and out the door he went.
Muzzle or flash hole submerged and a swishing away he went, siphoning in and out. He explained the action of the water cutting the salts and removing natural lubes, but the hot water was to expand surface (molecule wise)to release all that was trapped by barrel cooling and contraction after firing. I have stayed with some , I use #9 at bench post firing to get me home. I have made nylon muzzle plugs with holes to control outflow with sized hoses in rear chamber for seal attached to funnel to flow bores. Good sized tea pot rolling works for me, water evaporates in 5 to 10 seconds. Dry patch to confirm then follow with #9, oil, Bore Butter, etc. Has worked flawless for thirty plus on Pyro, Black and the Com-Bloc fodder- no issues. I still check for growth day ot two out just cause. Gtek

[JASON50CAL]

Thanks guys for the help, might just try the windex and see how it works.

[MtGun44]

three wet patches with Windex with vinegar, then 3 patches wet with Hoppes #9.
Preferably when the bbl is still warm at the range.

Bill

[ilcop22]

I usually spray down my bore and bolt with Windex w/ amonia after firing at the range, then run a patch or two down them. When I get home, I clean as usual with #9 or BreakFree CLP.

[Lead Fred]

Dudes, its a built up affair now, it needs the WWII stuff first.
Its real nasty stuff. I have a quart can. You need to use it outside, and with a mask on.
Ive taken hairy mauser bores and made them shine again.
Then windex, then oil patch.

[Multigunner]

Balistol is great stuff but it has its limitations.
I once used straight balistol to clean my BP 1851 Navy replica. While is appeared perfectly clean when I put it away, several months later I found some serious rust had formed in the angle of each rifling groove.
Balistol by itself won't always clean up corrosive elements, in this case likely from BP powder residue rather than from the primers.
Balistol can be used with water, and seems to do the trick when used that way.

The rust that had formed was unusually tough to get out. It seemed to have formed a very hard crust. Even a .410 bronze bristle brush made no impression on that crust.
Several sessions of shooting and cleaning finally broke up the crust.