Bullet counter for Star/Magma

[6bg6ga]

Quote:
Can anyone get me a good clear pix of the back circuitry? The pix provided just isn't quite clear enough - I may try to photo shop it to see what I find.

There is more to this then just what they show in the diagram.
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No, there is NOT more to this than what I posted!

Pins 3 & 4 are counter reset

Pins 6 to 9 mom contact are count adjust down (SPST mom contact switch)

Pins 7 to 9 are count up (micro switch contacts) (NO and common)

There is NO relay on the back of the board or part of this circuit. There is no easy way to activate a buzzer or alarm from this circuit. The only way would be to layout another circuit board to connect to this one. Still not worth the time or effort. But I would absolutely love to see you try

Everything that I posted it 100% correct with nothing omitted or left out.

There is your picture

I'll explain it for you

It consists of one 5 volt regulator below the capacitor right side of board. It has 5 transistors, 2 caps , 4 diodes, 27 surface mount resistors, and one IC.
Unable to obtain number off IC probably house numbered device. Has no relay.

[6bg6ga]

The IC is going to be the display driver. The PC board is a multipurpose board and does show a relay outline on the board. Will check it with a VOM to see if there is activity there on cycle. There is NO voltage present at the board relay coil contact points. Like I said...its a simple multipurpose board with different functions with different circuits but an alarm is not one of them in this instance.

[Frozone]

That pix is more useless than the original.

I never said the relay was present.
I know what the IC is for.
I notice you don't address the SPDT switch. Don't have a clue?????

I'll just buy on of these and If I can get an alarm signal off the board , you can KMA.

OH and BTW I am dropping you in the bit bucket , your style of quoting still SUCKS!


PLONK!

[6bg6ga]

Quote:
OH and BTW I am dropping you in the bit bucket , your style of quoting still SUCKS!
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Bit bucket? WOW!!!
Am I supposed to be upset by this?

My quoting sucks is your opinion no one else has a problem with it and I frequent 6 boards and also have one of my own. I will quote however the heck I want to.


Quote:I'll just buy on of these and If I can get an alarm signal off the board , you can KMA.
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Love your attitude LOL I sincerely hope that you can get a signal off the board because someone like you will dwell on this and keep at it on the rare chance that you might be right just to try to prove me wrong.
Go for it Ace!!!

[6bg6ga]

Well MR FROZONE what the board has on it for switch locations are as follows.

S1 double pole single throw

S2 " "

S3 " "

S4 " "

Left side of 100 mfd/10v cap single pole double throw as listed from the other side of the board.

From what I have checked so far they seem to be parallel locations for the reset, up, and down contacts in the sockets below.

[Alan in Vermont]

OH and BTW I am dropping you in the bit bucket , your style of quoting still SUCKS!

And he gets real snotty if you question him.

[Frozone]

And he gets real snotty if you question him.

He doesn't seem to have found the "Edit" function either.

Thank You for not quoting the dillweed, I'm done reading his BS.


Here's what I Can see in the photo on Ebay.

The diode D1 is a 'clamping' diode for the relay. it is connected to the collector of Q1. It appears Q1 is the control for the relay.
In the bottom right is a open space marked 'J1', tied to that is the symbol for an Inductor. however that same sign can be used for a light bulb as well.
without seeing more of the traces I can't say if it has relevance.
Because the IC is not a 'standard' part - It's a good bet it's an 'ASIC' (Application Specific IC).
Now ASICs are expensive to produce, Much more expensive then ANY "multipurpose" PC board.
I can't see them producing a multipurpose board but 2 different ASICs.
Since the robot mounted (the diode and transistor) devices are there and the hand mounted (relay) isn't, there is a very good chance the circuit is functional.

Usually what happens is If they produce 2 or more models with different functions/ prices;
then, It is likely the IC contains ALL the functions, although they may need to be be enabled by programming the chip.
Then to use those functions you need the extra components that are not supplied on the PC board.

I'm guessing that the IC sends out a signal when an over/under flow happens.
So if you set the counter for a specific number and count down, it will tell when it reaches zero.
It would take a simple latch circuit (about the size of a postage stamp) to run a pizo buzzer.
That could be mounted on one of the Phillips mounting screws with a longer screw an a 'standoff'.
A pizo buzzer, 2 transistors, a couple of resistors and a little wire is all it MAY take to add the alarm.

And then again I could be wrong. I won't know until I get mine in from china.

Once I do get it and IF it does what I want. How many want the counter in an enclosure?
I'll happily build them for you. I can make these fit a reloading press quite simply too.

[wdr2]

6bg6ga - thanks much for posting this design. Simple and very useful!

[bosterr]

It sounds like Frozone's wheels are turning! I will be your first customer if you're thinking about making counters!

[finishman2000]

this thing is stupid simple to do. 45 minutes and done. just have to mount the switch on the bench/machine. i used a servo wire as a quick connect so i could leave the switch on the bench and use the counter on other machines and switches.
thanks again for posting!


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[6bg6ga]

Your welcome

I like the case you picked. A nice finished little project.

[mktacop]

I’ll preface my question by saying….I am not an electrician, nor did I stay in a Holiday Inn Express last night.

Since my lack of in-depth electronics knowledge is now established, I’ll get to the issue…. In addition to the micro-switch for automatic increment based on the movement of the piston arm, I’d like to set one of these counters up with three more switches. Those three switches would be reset, manual increment and manual decrement. Do I need to purchase normally open momentary switches, or normally closed momentary switches?

Thanks in advance!

[Frozone]

Do I need to purchase normally open momentary switches, or normally closed momentary switches?

normally open.

[mktacop]

normally open.

Thanks Frozone!

[6bg6ga]

There are toggle switches available that are momentary contact with a center off position. One of these would work fine because if you pushed it on one direction it would count up by one time and if pushed in the other direction it would count down by one. This would allow you to use only one switch to perform the up and down count corrections. The only additional switches needed would be a momentary contact switch to reset the counter to zero. The last switch would be a simple on/off for battery power to the counter unit.

[mktacop]

There are toggle switches available that are momentary contact with a center off position. One of these would work fine because if you pushed it on one direction it would count up by one time and if pushed in the other direction it would count down by one. This would allow you to use only one switch to perform the up and down count corrections. The only additional switches needed would be a momentary contact switch to reset the counter to zero. The last switch would be a simple on/off for battery power to the counter unit.

Thank you sir! I will look for a switch like you described.


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[Frozone]

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/sto...316_-1?CID=PDF

However, I think you would find a single push button for each function better.
If you use a small plastic housing and Don't mount it to something solid, it is going to wonder around when you try to use a toggle switch.

If you mount the push buttons on top of the case then you can just tap them with your fingertips until you get what you want.
You can't do that with a dual purpose toggle

[6bg6ga]

mktacop

Choose the switch that you would like to use. They both have their good points as well as bad. My preference is for the toggle switch because it suites my particular needs without the clutter of having a switch for up and an additional switch for down. Use what you want. I just mentioned it so you would have a idea that it could be done with one switch instead of two.

[Frozone]

OK, I have schematics for the counter.

There are a number of options besides count up/down and reset to zero.

You can 'set' the count to any value between 0 and 9999.
You can also use 5v power off the board to do the count signals you don't have to use Vss.
J2 has raising edge inputs you connect them to the Vcc pin to make it count.
J3 has negative edge inputs, you connect to ground to make those count.
And J4 has raising edge signals BUT you connect those to Vss <- that is the + DC supply line.



And, my my, guess what?
The relay circuit is functional!

Once you put a relay on the board you use "JX1" to feed the 3 pins of the relay.
OR/And you can use "J1" to get a negative going signal from ~ supply voltage.
You can use J1 without the relay on the board too.

JX1 lets you switch 110 volt or bigger voltages. While J1 lets you run a LED/Buzzer.
You can use both or either one, your choice.
Current through J1 is limited to ~ 500 mA by Q1, but that is a LOT of capability.

Only problems are: The signal is Only ~ 1 second in duration, and it only happens on the overflow not the underflow.
In other words, when counting up and it rolls over at 9999 to 0, it will signal you; but not when counting down through zero and going to 9999.
The underflow would have been far more useful!

Oh, and I'm sure the IC is a PIC. That's likely why these things have been dumped on EBay.
Someone forgot to program the underflow signal, so these are out of spec.

Anyway, a certain person (you know who you are) can now get on their knees and kiss any portion of my anatomy, below my waist, that catches their fancy.

[dnotarianni]

Now if we could only mount an audible alarm when a preset number is reached that'd be great. I could use it on my Dillon too.

You already have that, It's called 100 primers at a time in the primer tube


I cast and load in quantity, 1000+ at a time. Since I have to run a lubed bullet back thru every now and them a counter is just another item I don't really need. Nice idea and good instructions no matter what anybody may think. For my needs the scale works just fine. 230gr head x 1000 =33 lbs give or take a little or a full coffee can.
Simple man with simple needs thats me

dave