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Thread: Home Made Tumbler Plans with Pulley Size and Drum explained.

  1. #41
    Boolit Man
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    I suggest installing the doorbell unit that are sold at Lowe's or Home Depot that have a wireless camera that can be connected to a unit to record and send a picture to you to see everyone coming to your door.
    They have small wireless cameras that you can install around your home with digital recorder.

    If you think postal workers or others are stealing your packages contact the postal inspectors to be alerted to spot check when packages are being delivered. We only use the priority mail flat rate packages that have a tracking number with insurance.

    We are considering switching from Postal Service to USPS or FED EX



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  2. #42
    Boolit Master



    NavyVet1959's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mdhillbilly1 View Post
    We are considering switching from Postal Service to USPS or FED EX

    The Postal Service is the same thing as USPS...

  3. #43
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by mdhillbilly1 View Post
    I suggest installing the doorbell unit that are sold at Lowe's or Home Depot that have a wireless camera that can be connected to a unit to record and send a picture to you to see everyone coming to your door.
    They have small wireless cameras that you can install around your home with digital recorder.
    That reminds me of a recent experience I had with house wiring...

    Back in November, my wife and took a trip for a week or so. Before leaving, we did the usual things like storing the spare keys to the house and cars in the safe and the garage door remote "someplace safe". Well, despite 2 months of searching, we were not able to find the garage door remote. There is not a hard wired switch to the garage door inside the house (there is one in the garage though). We had always just used the remote for opening the garage from the house. My wife had finally given up on the search for the remote control, so she said she would help me run the wire for a hardwired control.

    I figured all I need to do was run a single wire pair from the garage to the house via the attic of the breezeway that goes between the two... Sounds pretty simple, right? Run the wire through the breezeway attic, drop it down the wall to where the light switches are already at, and install it as a small momentary contact switch.

    Sounds a lot easier than it ended up being...

    First problem was that there was a fire break where the breezeway attached to the garage... Once through it, I see that there is no way that I'm going to be crawling through that small area, so I think that maybe I can get some pieces of PVC pipe and snake it through there. Shining a light though there though shows yet another firebreak about a third of the way down there and the existing wires running underneath it, so that route doesn't look promising. Since there is a light fixture in the middle of the breezeway, I figure I might be able to remove the light and electrical box that it is attached to and put my hand in there to grab the PVC pipe that was shoved through from either end. Once I removed the light, I discover that it is not hooked to an electrical box, but rather just screwed directly into the plywood that makes up the ceiling of the breezeway and there is maybe a 3/4" hole in the plywood for the wires to run though. So much for that idea...

    The power for the house starts in the garage and then all the wires get distributed from the panel there through the breezeway into the rest of the house, so there's quite a few wires going through the breezeway. Same goes for the phone wires and cable TV coax. They all seem to be stapled to the ceiling joists in the breezeway since when I tug on the wires, there is no slack. Eventually, I find an abandoned telephone wire that goes to the telephone junction box, but is not connected, and it goes though the breezeway. It also appears to have some slack in it, so I figure there's a chance that I might be able to either use it to drag a new wire through the breezeway, or, if at least one pair of the 6 conductors in the telephone wire is good, repurpose it for control of the garage door. I figured that at least one pair in that cable was bad and that is why it had been disconnected at sometime in the past. So, I pulled that end of the wire back into the garage and wired it so that the solid white w/ color stripes were connected together and the solid colors w/ white stripes were connected. It's pretty low voltage for this signal, so even a single pair from that wire would have been enough.

    So, then onto the "fun" part -- climbing into the attic to trace down where that wire went. Of course, due to the slope of the roof, it was not possible to get all the way to the edge where the wires came into the attic of the house, but I eventually figured out which wire was the one I was interested it. Then a bunch of crawling around near the eave of the house following that wire to see what it went to. Eventually, I determine that it is going somewhere that is currently covered by wiring that I have added from a commercial telephone distribution type panel, so I cut the wire at a place where it will still be easy to access at a later date if so needed.

    With the free end that now goes to the garage door opener, I tie it to a rod and try to drop it down to a hole that I added to the inside of one of the light switch boxes in the house. I had originally wanted to put it on one of the switches by the rear door, but due to the slope of the roof, it was not possible to get into that area. It wasn't that easy even where I ended up putting it since there was 2 ft from where I was laying to where the wires went though the wall's 2x4 top plate due to the rooms having 8 ft walls, but then 45 degree angles up to a 10 ft actual ceiling. It took a long time and was rather painful laying across those ceiling joists while trying to poke that rod down the existing hole in the top plate in the hope of hitting that hole in the switch box.

    So, after 4.5 hours of this, I finally have a wire in the house at a light switch and it soldered to a momentary contract switch installed in a light switch outlet. My wife actually helped in the attic some by watching for which wire moved when I pulled on another one and the same thing in the garage. She now realizes why I procrastinate doing anything that involves getting into the attic.

    Total cost? About $0.15 for the switch (which I had bought off of eBay in a 10 piece lot for an Arduino project), the two dots of solder to connect the wires, and a couple of inches of electrical tape. AND quite a few beers afterwards as I cussed the builder and his workers for leaving nails sticking out at wrong places and the roofers for having having nails so long that the perforated my head numerous times. And a couple of days of grunting from pain every time I move thanks to having to crawl around on the various 2x?s that were used as ceiling joints.

    So, as much as I wouldn't want wireless cameras or other things around the house, I will admit that it can be less painful to install them in certain situations. Well, unless you don't have an electrical outlet near where you want the camera and you need to still run electrical power to it. From a security standpoint, a wired system is probably going to be better.

  4. #44
    Boolit Man
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    Quote Originally Posted by NavyVet1959 View Post
    The Postal Service is the same thing as USPS...
    It should have stated UPS and FED-EX

    Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk

  5. #45
    Boolit Bub frodo's Avatar
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    wow
    just say this thread. I posted this in another discussion it was the wrong thread




    I demoed a treadmill, all i had to move was 1 roller,

    6'' pvc 30'' long, it holds plenty

    inside the pvc are 3 copper veins that force the brass to tumble
    every thing was free except the 12v to 110 transformer 15 bucks

  6. #46
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter64 View Post
    I supply them with the the frame, bearings and shafts already installed so you just have to supply your own motor with pulley and one pulley for the drive shaft.



    Mark the 4 holes to mount the motor and install a belt and away you go.

    First one took me about 3 hours to weld and drill the 1/2" holes for the bearings. I have it down to about 1.5 hours now.

    In Canada where I live, I would consider making them but shipping to the US would be far to expensive to justify it so I decided to just share the plans for those that wanted to build there own as I have had lots of requests lately since I first posted the idea a couple of weeks ago.
    This is a phenomenal thread! I was recently gifted two motors, a 1/6 hp 1750 rpm and a 3/4 hp 3450 rpm. I’ll use your formula to design my own! I’m not a metal worker, so my frame is 2x4’s

    But I need a suggestion. My main shaft is 1/2” what would you put on the main shaft to drive the bucket? Will latex surgical tubing create enough friction to turn the drum?

  7. #47
    Boolit Buddy
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    G,day
    Finished mine today, pinched a few ideas, had most bits needed already, had to buy pillow blocks, 16mm shaft, adjustable bung for the barrel, cleaned 50 6.5X 55 cases no pins at this stage ,warm water citric acid, wash up liquid,1 hour running cases very clean.

    Cheers Mal in au.

  8. #48
    Boolit Buddy
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    Tried to post a pic. of my completed tumbler but no luck from my IPad files!! Any thoughts as to what I am doing wrong? Cheers Mal in au.

  9. #49
    Boolit Buddy
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    G,day,
    Did another 50 plus cases today, came out very clean ,no SS pins at this stage. Word of warning!!! Don’t use warm water ,don’t ask me how I know!!! With my adjustable bung the pressure created using warm is too great, blew the bung out water water everywhere, changed to cold no problem, used 2 teaspoons of lime juice 2 of dishwasher liquid, they came out perfect.

    Cheers Mal in au.

  10. #50
    Banned
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    Youtube has quite a few different ways of making tumblers. As long as you get some kind of bucket turning at the correct RPMs and the thing doesn't fall apart, it works.
    I made one from an old windshield wiper motor and a 4 amp 12 volt dc power supply. The parts cost me $15 for the wiper motor $1 for the power supply
    I used a 3 quart plastic thermo drink holder for the container $1 at used stuff store, and a strip of plastic molding that I made the interior ribs from.
    The total was under $20.
    I attached the outer shell of the cooler to the shaft of the motor and slide the inner part of the cooler in with a piece of metal strap around the outside to hold it in.
    Seems to work well and has not come apart or broken down ...yet!

  11. #51
    Boolit Master hunter64's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Srjdsmith View Post
    This is a phenomenal thread! I was recently gifted two motors, a 1/6 hp 1750 rpm and a 3/4 hp 3450 rpm. I’ll use your formula to design my own! I’m not a metal worker, so my frame is 2x4’s

    But I need a suggestion. My main shaft is 1/2” what would you put on the main shaft to drive the bucket? Will latex surgical tubing create enough friction to turn the drum?
    Not sure about the surgical tubing as I would think it is too soft. I used gas line hose for a vehicle from NAPA that perfectly fit the shaft. It finally wore out and I just simply replaced it with some new hose. On the drum I installed that one sided stick on sandpaper stuff that you use in a bathtub/shower so you dont slip and fall. Works great.
    Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch.
    Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote. -Benjamin Franklin, 1759

  12. #52
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunter64 View Post
    Not sure about the surgical tubing as I would think it is too soft. I used gas line hose for a vehicle from NAPA that perfectly fit the shaft. It finally wore out and I just simply replaced it with some new hose. On the drum I installed that one sided stick on sandpaper stuff that you use in a bathtub/shower so you dont slip and fall. Works great.
    Yep. Your list says “heater hose” and I had a package in my hand when I saw gas hose by the foot, so I got that. Works great, as does your formula for RPM. I either have to speed one motor up or slow the other down. For now, I’m just using the slower rate and it’s fine. It was nice to build as a design-on-the-fly with some idea of what to expect for rate. Thanks!

    https://youtu.be/DpFtPCCu99c

    https://youtu.be/nM7RDx10YTQ


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  13. #53
    Boolit Master Handloader109's Avatar
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    Well, I've been wanting to make me a tumbler for a while. saw this thread when it first was posted and have just been putting it off. Just being lazy.

    I've got a little HF dual tumbler, but I hate using it. if the belts aren't broken, then I've overloaded it and it doesn't want to turn, or a small amount of pressure builds up and it starts to leak or blows off a lid, dumping all on the floor. Dang pins at least are somewhat magnetic

    well, will a lot of spare time and it being warmer, I started looking for what components I had.

    Saw a 1 gallon walmart stainless steel insulated container on sale at half price and thought that would be good size for me. don't need 5 gallon bucket.
    First, found a dc gearmotor I had saved from the scrap heap a decade and a half ago. Found a controller and wired motor up and made sure it worked. 90 rpm, so pretty slow. Found 4 pillar block bearings I had stuffed away. Dang 7/8 shaft size, so odd. guess thats why ive never used them. found one pulley that fit motor shaft.

    Then found a 10 ft piece of strut that would work for the frame. So, I needed one pulley,and a few more nuts and bolts, and some bushings and rollers. Spending was not much, couple of dollars for the nuts and bolts, $13 for the 5/8 rod for the shaft and $8 for small pulley.
    No bushings to be found or rollers.

    So I played with the numbers and decided on 3dprinting 4 bushings from petg to hold rod in the bearings. And 3d printed 4 rollers. 2 inch diameter to fit the rod.
    Put it all together and found a few issues. First, width between rollers was too much. need drive wheels more below. So printed 2 rollers 4 inch diameter for idler side that raised container up and more over drive side. And had to take apart the bearing and wash out the grease to make idler freewheeling much easier
    Back together and it works great. zero to 60rpms. Oh, I spent $5 on permatex metal epoxy and added 3 small aluminum fins inside the container to tumble the brass. scrap aluminum.
    So under $30 out of pocket. and just scrap.
    here's a few pictures

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  14. #54
    Boolit Bub
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    Nice, How quiet is the vacuum bottle?

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BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
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GC Gas Check