H&G Mould alignment pins question

[FISH4BUGS]

I just bought a nice H&G 4 cavity #503. I cleaned it thoroughly and it really came back nicely. Someone had covered it with some kind of gunk (I THINK it was mould release) and the underlying blocks were quite nice. The cavities are perfect. I can't wait to cast with it.
When I close the mould and hold it up to the light, it looks like the blocks are not closing quite all the way. So the answer is more than likely in the alignment pins.....which brings me to my question.
I have never had to move the alignment pins in any of my H&G moulds. How do you so that? I know it is a stupid question but I don't want to tap them and move them too far, or damage them in any way.
Use a hammer? A brass hammer? Tap them or do they need explosives to move? What is the best way to do this?
Better to ask a stupid question and be thought a moron than damage my mould and prove you right!

[John J]

Greetings

First take the blocks from the handles and hold them together that way you can feel the aliment of the blocks and know that pin needs to move.

Then put some penetrating solvent in the back side of the pin hole and let it work in,iv used mystery oil.

then using a brass rod and a hammer give the pin a sharp wrap and then place the blocks back together and check them,you may need more wacks.You should check the mateing hole on the outher block for burrs first

Take a caliper and measure the height of the pin sticking out before and after to check your progress.

hope this helps

John J

[country gent]

You can also use a heavy vise to push them. You want brass or copper jaws in the vise for this. Simply set block in vise and sug then go 1/8 to 1/4 turn farther and check. If they need to go out farther then a hole in the jaw or a brass pipe is needed. I Have done it with a small hammer and punch, the vise and a small ahrbor press. Soaking with a good penetrating oil is a big help on some moulds. I use kroil for this.

[FISH4BUGS]

Well, last night after yard work I decided to give it a whirl. I check to make sure there were no burrs in the alignment holes. There were not. After your original suggestions, I put in some penetrating oil and let it sit overnight.
Needless to say, a small hammer did not move them. The mould was placed on my casting bench on a towel and no matter what I did, the alignment pins would not move. This was one case where needing a bigger hammer really was true.
I figured that the hammer was too small, and that the towel was absorbing some of the blow. So, being the brilliant mechanical person that I am (NOT!) I used a full sized claw hammer and placed the block flat on my vise. A couple of careful whacks on each pin and check the alignment. I saw some improvement, so another couple of whacks it is.
It would appear that the blocks close tightly now. I will cast with it next week and see how it goes.
I have to say I was very nervous about this. All I needed to do was trash a beautiful #503 and make it worthless.
Computers I can help you with. I can hardly boil water and when it comes to mechanical stuff I am a complete moron. Maybe there is hope?

[country gent]

Take your time and think it thru. Lock at the issue at hand and do it in your mind first seeing where problems may show up. Have a plan before you start and follow it. Starting a new project at work my first step was converting any fractions or metrics to English and decimals and then sitting thinking thru the process of making it.

[jsizemore]

In first post there's 2 links to the user's manual. 2nd manual, page 13 has the procedure for pin adjustment;

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...d-Users-Manual