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Thread: Reloading a fired primer

  1. #81
    Boolit Mold
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    Yes I post and test some priming mixture , lead peroxide was mixed with sulfur,aluminum powder and phosphorus was reliable but not so good as matchhead priming

  2. #82
    Boolit Master

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    otonel,

    Are you working with boxer or berdan primers?

  3. #83
    Boolit Mold
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    Perotter,
    I am working with boxer primer but in my country exist a lot of cartridge with berdan primer , from berdan primer I make boxer primer using a drill and a guide because boxer is easy to reload.
    I reload some shotgun primer with my priming mix formula and work for "shortage" situation

  4. #84
    Boolit Mold
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    While you're collectively on primers,what's the difference chemically between modern flat top primers & the convex rounded type that fit the primer punch in my 'Ideal # 4" pliers type loading tool ?

  5. #85
    Boolit Master
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    Gandy Dancer..that is exactly what I did when I was a kid! Read somewhere that the U.S. army forbade selling ammunition to hostiles..so they soaked match heads in water & re-primed their .44 Henry flats, .56 Spencers, etc., recharged with powder & probably just crammed a round ball in case mouth..as these were heeled bullets. This intriqued me no end..I just had to try for myself. I had to anneal case head to allow pin from older Marlin bolt gun to dent rim. Soaked strike-anywhere match heads in warm water & scraped tip off. Made up rim scraper from bent nail, filed to shape. Later, I added powder from those little plastic caps..for more reliable ignition. Made bullet mould in shop class..patterened after Lyman 224415..complete with heeled base. I first used black, as that was all I had, then later..as I wasn't old enough, my sister bought a can of Unique..these things worked! Though I made sure bore was patched with Hoppes black powder solvent after use.

  6. #86
    Moderator Emeritus/Boolit Master in Heavens Range
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    [QUOTE=Jim;1523008]Shotshell (209) primers are a horse of an entirely different color. The primers I experimented with are those used in metallic cases.

    Umm, for the record, shotshell primers can be reloaded with the same basic techniques. At least, the ones I did as a kid in the 50's seemed to work well, but I wasn't in a position to do any real scientific testing with them. I did use some slightly different techniques, but only slightly. After I got the primer cup flattened out and charged with cap gun pellets, I would make a tiny ball of tissue paper (rolling it between my hands) and drop it into the primer body before assembling the primer again. Thiis was to keep a pinch of FFFFg from dribbling out. Never had a misfire or a hang fire either.

    I did a lot of otherwise crazy things along this line too: Like dampening the contents of .22 blanks so I could dig them out with a bobby pin. I used these a few times with some success, but those things are mercuric, and didn't take well to mistreatment, so I quit after a few singed fingertips. .22 Short priming is uncomfortably unpredictable too. Nice thread though. I didn't know there were so many idiots around like myself. Makes me feel right at home here. (VBG)
    Regards,

    Molly

    "The remedy for evil men is not the abrogation of the rights of law abiding citizens. The remedy for evil men is the gallows." Thomas Jefferson

  7. #87
    Boolit Master

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    Molly must be cause you is a hillbilly

  8. #88
    Moderator Emeritus/Boolit Master in Heavens Range
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    Quote Originally Posted by shotman View Post
    Molly must be cause you is a hillbilly
    I've been called that. I've been called other things too on occasion, but we don't need to go into that. All in all, I prefer the term "Mountaineer". It gives pause to those who think of us as ignorant hillbillies and makes them wonder what the diference is. While they're speechless, it gives me time to mention a few of my patents, discoveries and inventions, and ask them how much further I have to go to catch up to their record.

    For some reason, convesation seems to lapse a bit when it reaches that point.
    Last edited by Molly; 06-09-2012 at 03:22 AM.
    Regards,

    Molly

    "The remedy for evil men is not the abrogation of the rights of law abiding citizens. The remedy for evil men is the gallows." Thomas Jefferson

  9. #89
    Boolit Bub
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    Wow, why did it take me so long to find this thread? I have been saving all my spent primers, tho not seperatly, since I started reloading. I might be able to reuse them instead of putting them in the recycling stack.

  10. #90
    Boolit Bub Jamezius Maximus's Avatar
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    Hello,

    So is it possible to use tannerite and use acetone/mineral spirits to make a primer paste? I ask this because primers are in shortage and tannerite is made to go off when something hits it, so wouldn't it seem like a good candidate for primer compound? Please advise.

  11. #91
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamezius Maximus View Post
    Hello,

    So is it possible to use tannerite and use acetone/mineral spirits to make a primer paste? I ask this because primers are in shortage and tannerite is made to go off when something hits it, so wouldn't it seem like a good candidate for primer compound? Please advise.
    No it won't work. The ammonium nitrate has to be made into copper tetramine nitrate. Copper tetramine nitrate was one of the first things that non-corrsive primers were made with, but to the best of my knowledge only in labs. While very simple to make, the problem is getting dry. And then keeping dry. I've never gotten around to trying as a primer compound. There are other compounds that work better.

    Also, acetone/mineral spirits aren't the best thing to use in primers. Water or alcohol work and are cheaper.

  12. #92
    Boolit Master


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    [QUOTE=Molly;1738271]
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    Shotshell (209) primers are a horse of an entirely different color. The primers I experimented with are those used in metallic cases.

    Umm, for the record, shotshell primers can be reloaded with the same basic techniques. At least, the ones I did as a kid in the 50's seemed to work well, but I wasn't in a position to do any real scientific testing with them. I did use some slightly different techniques, but only slightly. After I got the primer cup flattened out and charged with cap gun pellets, I would make a tiny ball of tissue paper (rolling it between my hands) and drop it into the primer body before assembling the primer again. Thiis was to keep a pinch of FFFFg from dribbling out. Never had a misfire or a hang fire either.
    Yepper, 209 primers are definately "reloadable". Only difference on mine was I didn't have any 4f to use but I did have some "magician's flash powder" that seems to work very well for a booster charge. I'd like to figure something to use for #11 percussion caps, my BP guns all split the caps 75% of the time so they're "unrecyclable" lol

  13. #93
    Boolit Mold
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    This is interesting, I was just wondering about ball and cap bp guns and whether you can recharge the caps. Or will the percussion caps get totally mangled during firing?

    I have a Pietta 1858 Remmington but have yet to fire it. I might keep the caps if this works.

  14. #94
    Boolit Master

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    Yes caps for CB guns can be reloaded. Easiest thing is with a toy caps. Toy caps don't use as much mix as they used to. You might have to use a toy cap and then add black powder to the cap for it to work.

  15. #95
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by ReloaderEd View Post
    Hang fires can be dangerous using the home made primers. However, obviously if one were in the position that either make them or don't have ammo I can see the reason for doing this. I keep coming up with a comment my boss said once in an email. Someone has too much time on their hands.
    I rotate my stock of primers, usually 500 of each type I use so usually have fresh ones on hand . Why? I guess the old saying about keepping ones powder dry goes along with the reason. Be Safe

    Primers seem to handle age and water better than most people think. I got a bucket full of primed .380 cases and about 1000 LP and SP primers that were stored out in a horse barn for 30 years. The primers had visual corrosion and the paper boxes had mud stuck to them and it's pretty obvious they were soaking wet for a while. I let them dry near my dehumidifier for a few days and none of them were bad or had hangfires. They were dated 1971. I was very surprised they worked.

  16. #96
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lead Waster View Post
    This is interesting, I was just wondering about ball and cap bp guns and whether you can recharge the caps. Or will the percussion caps get totally mangled during firing?

    I have a Pietta 1858 Remmington but have yet to fire it. I might keep the caps if this works.
    Don't waste your time. It's not worth the effort. Fired caps will split and expand if not go to pieces.

  17. #97
    Boolit Master

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    For a mix that should work with the Olin duplex idea. This is a non-corrosive mix.

    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...rtridges/page2

  18. #98
    Boolit Buddy
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    For those looking for replacement caps to use for percussion guns maybe something can be formed from old 22 cases? A punch and forming die would be simple to make.

  19. #99
    Boolit Master
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    Hello, everyone..interesting posts! I too used to reload fired primers with toy caps..but never tried in a real gun..just with punch and hammer to see if they would work. The I got into reloading .22 rimfires using strike-anywhere match heads..sometimes adding toy cap powder to mix..these worked..but clean-up had to be done with black-powder solvents to prevent rust! I know there have been posts of non-corrosive mixes..but I still wouldn't try them..and frankly, I am a bit surprised I haven't seen it before..safety! a fired cap has a pretty fair sized punch indent..by flatening, you are workhardening..and probably setting up additional stress in something that wasn't intended to be re-used. Considering pressures around 60K are being held in check by the thin metal of the once punched primer cup. It could be like playing Russian roulette.

  20. #100
    Boolit Master
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    I now this has been covered in earlier posts...but what the hey...

    I messed about with "reloading" spent primers a couple of weeks ago. Did the usual dis-assembly, flattening & etc. I reloaded a series with different iterations of "Legends" roll caps and ring caps. Labeled Made in Germany. They both worked, but it must be emphasized that they create a corrosive primer, and appropriate cleaning techniques MUST be followed. I had no issues igniting my usual powder charges for a selection of my usual loads in .308. The ambient temps were in the upper 30's to lower 40's. The ammunition was very usable. No instrumentation and no objective data other than they worked 100% and nothing seemed to be amiss with point of aim etc.

    The roll caps contained less than 0.023 grains of "powder" and the ring caps contained less than 0.041 grains of "powder" according to the packaging. I used two of each to recharge the primers. The ring caps were a little more energetic. Didn't see a difference in powder ignition. The fastest powder I tried was Red Dot and the slowest was H4895.

    If I was hungry enough, or was faced with an unpleasant social situation without recourse, I'd use this technique. Otherwise not so much. Still keeping up on the thread for a non-corrosive alternative that uses reasonably available components though. It's nice to have proven alternatives.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check