I been hanging out in the Smokeless Paper Patch section. Now I'm wondering if a guy could paper patch a Lee Slug to full bore dimension . Or if the crimp would tear the paper off.
I been hanging out in the Smokeless Paper Patch section. Now I'm wondering if a guy could paper patch a Lee Slug to full bore dimension . Or if the crimp would tear the paper off.
"Some times it's just better to smile an walk away."
-161
"Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?"
-Butch Cassidy & the Sun-dance Kid
Good morning 161,
I would not roll crimp them but a fold crimp will work out better!
Are you using a smooth bore or rifled barrel? Try different length of paper and after patching push it through the barrel with a wooden dowel till it gets snug!
Hope it helps!
Ajay
Video Memories
www.PreciousVideoMemories.Com
It's a rifled barrel. How did yours shoot.
"Some times it's just better to smile an walk away."
-161
"Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?"
-Butch Cassidy & the Sun-dance Kid
Hello 161, I was using Lyman Foster slug of .705 dia with paper patch but through a smooth bore and it helped in the accuracy dept.
You need to at least try!
Ajay
Video Memories
www.PreciousVideoMemories.com
I have also paper patched the Lyman Foster slug form as cast 0.705" to bore diameter using heavy brown paper shopping bag. This was for my smoothbore Browning slug barrel.
I did see a significant increase in overall accuracy but got frequent fliers. I think the fliers were due to patch damage leaving the rough hull/opening crimp/hitting forcing cone. Since I didn't really like the Lyman Foster slug I didn't pursue other paper or patching techniques but I suspect it could be made to work.
Also, I agree with Ajay on the fold crimp being better than roll crimp here.
Not quite sure why you would want to patch the Lee since it is sized to fit into shotcups which are easier to use than paper patching but if you use thick enough paper or enough wraps to get the diameter you want it should work.
With the Lee, you might actually be able to make a paper tube by gluing the paper around a dowel, metal or plastic rod then slipping it off and sliding the Lee slug in. That may make the paper tough enough to take the abuse of opening the crimp, etc. but still release from the slug. You may have to slit it like plastic wads too, to get it to separate if glued.
Just a couple of thoughts.
Merry Christmas!
Longbow
We all know you can also get fliers with sabots but .705 to .730 seems like alot of patch. If you do patch don't worry about the crimp, don't crimp at all. On my full bore slugs I just seat the slug and pour a little beeswax to seal.
After I started this thread I started thinking of a way to enlarge the LEE 7/8 to make a tighter fit with a shot cup. I went out and wrapped the slug with Teflon thread tape to a size of .695 and used a Clay Buster wad 12AA. If I did this right the first picture is of the 21 gr. Unique with for mentioned slug and wad and two cork wads under the slug. First three were touching, forth went high, fifth to the right, sixth back in the group of three. You'll see some vertical stringing in these groups and I'm willing to bet it's because I'm not holding onto the for arm and letting it free recoil.
The next group is the same combo except I used 4 thin fiber cards. The cork wad loads show some key engagement but not as much as without a wad. The thin harder wads show no key engagement in the wad and didn't shoot as well as the cork. I had good rifling marks on all wads I would shoot once and walk to the target and pick up the wad from that shot. These two groups are the best I've gotten from the LEE Slug although the one flier from the cork group that went high I don't understand.
I think I'm going to try this with a wad that doesn't need a cork or fiber wad to see if better key engagement improves anything. The third picture is of the .690 RB with 4 of the thin wads under it. I take blame for the vertical stringing on the ones that went high but the two that went low the wad failed. I think causing the RB to go low. I think if I get some good nitro cards I can get them to shoot also. I'm also going to try cutting the Teflon in quarters to aid in coming off the slug. Any thoughts?
Thanks for the help
161
http://www2.snapfish.com/snapfish/sl...NAME=snapfish/
http://www2.snapfish.com/snapfish/sl...NAME=snapfish/
http://www2.snapfish.com/snapfish/sl...NAME=snapfish/
"Some times it's just better to smile an walk away."
-161
"Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?"
-Butch Cassidy & the Sun-dance Kid
Aaaahhh, I get it now. I thought you want to eliminate the shotcup and just paper patch. That would be a lot of paper indeed.
Yes, I have also patched slugs to tight fit in shotcups usually one or two wraps of paper or crossed strips.
I would not use Teflon tape because it will not release from the slug so will most likely drag and affect accuracy.
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Longbow
I agree on not using the teflon. The powder dosn't burn the patch off the slug if it's in a sabot. What I have done is patch the sabot then the slug is free to the target. I used masking tape to rap around to desired thickness then cut inbetween petals with a razer blade. If your worryed that will gum up your barrel, I don't think it does you can bend the petals back and tape the length of each petal inside with masking tape. I think both ways will make the slug more accurate.
"Some times it's just better to smile an walk away."
-161
"Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?"
-Butch Cassidy & the Sun-dance Kid
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |