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Thread: Cleaning lead from bores.

  1. #101
    In Remembrance Reverend Al's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cardinal View Post
    When I was shooting a lot of .38 Special lead bullets through my Ruger GP100, it would lead up terribley. This was around 1990 and Outers sold a reverse electroplaiting kit that would remove lead or copper. The first time I used it I was AMAZED how much lead it removed from the cylinder bores and the barrel AND it didn't harm the finish on them.

    Over the years, I've used it on any firearm that leaded up.

    BUT last year I used almost all of the leadout and tried to buy some only to find out that Outers no longer manufactures it! So I did a search on the internet, found a website that gave the chemicals for the solution, then bought them from an online place in PA called Post Apple Scientific, Inc. 8893 Gulf Road, North East, PA 16428Phone: 814-725-3330 ( http://www.postapplescientific.com/ ). The water is distilled water (I found it at the loacl gorcery store!). The chemicals are lead acetate ACS crystals 100 G bottle and liquid amonia acetate .010% solution in a 500 ml bottle.

    I can't find the website right now but it was pretty straight forward as to the mixture of water to crystals to liquid chemical.

    I haven't as yet mixed the chemicals together though but from people who mixed their own said it worked exactly like Outers Leadout.
    http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-Plus-solution
    PS: I just did a search and wouldn't you know it, there is a post telling how much to mix each cemical!
    I bought a used Outers "Foul Out II" at a gun show for $10, but it had no solution with it, so I did a bit of research and here is what I found ...

    Replacement bore cleaning solutions for the Outers Foul Out electronic bore cleaner

    Outers Cop Out Plus solution contain approximately 0.6 percent cupric acetate and 2.5 percent ammonium acetate (3.62 grams/ liter of copper acetate and 38.5 grams/liter of ammonium acetate) in distilled/deionized water.

    The Lead Out Plus contains approximately 2 percent lead acetate and 5 percent ammonium acetate (6.50 grams/liter of lead acetate and 38.5 grams/liter of ammonium acetate ) in distilled/deionized water.

    Here are the formulas to make each of them:

    Copper Solution

    562.3 grains Ammonium Acetate
    51.3 grains Copper Acetate or 58.3 grains Cupric Acetate Monohydrate
    Add distilled (or high megohm deionized) water to make 1 Qt.


    Lead Solution

    562.3 grains Ammonium Acetate
    95.0 grains Lead Acetate or 110.8 grains of Lead Acetate Trihydrate
    Add distilled (or high megohm deionized) water to make 1 Qt.
    I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!

  2. #102
    In Remembrance Reverend Al's Avatar
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    You used to be able to buy a commercially made "Lead Removal Cloth" (I think it was made by Kleen Bore?), but I haven't seen them for sale for years now. Again, I made a trip to the Internet and Voila!

    I copied this formula off another forum for making Lead Removal Cloth. It is said to duplicate commercial lead
    removing cloths.

    500 gr - 400 grit or finer aluminum oxide powder
    450 gr - kerosene or #2 fuel oil
    4 gr - lemon oil
    5 gr - ammonium chloride
    I may have passed my "Best Before" date, but I haven't reached my "Expiry" date!

  3. #103
    Boolit Buddy pcmacd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Reverend Al View Post
    You used to be able to buy a commercially made "Lead Removal Cloth" (I think it was made by Kleen Bore?), but I haven't seen them for sale for years now. Again, I made a trip to the Internet and Voila!

    I copied this formula off another forum for making Lead Removal Cloth. It is said to duplicate commercial lead
    removing cloths.

    500 gr - 400 grit or finer aluminum oxide powder
    450 gr - kerosene or #2 fuel oil
    4 gr - lemon oil
    5 gr - ammonium chloride
    Wow. How about a "CARBON OUT"?

    I can build my own electronics. I just need to understand if it is feasible and what the chemicals are?

    My 1871 Swede RB is a coal mine....

  4. #104
    Boolit Master 444ttd's Avatar
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    Ad Reipublicae his Civitatum Foederatarum Americae, ego sum fortis et libero. Ego autem non exieris ad impios communistarum socialismi. Ora imagines in vestri demented mentem, quod vos mos have misericordia, quia non.

    To the Republic of these United States of America, I am strong and free. I will never surrender to godless communist socialism. Pray to images in your demented mind, that you will have mercy, because i will not.

    MOLON LABE

  5. #105
    Boolit Bub
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    What I've done the last few years, is to take a can of AeroKroil with me to the range. When the last shot out whatever gun I'm shooting is down range, before the barrel is even started to cool off, spray some down the barrel. If you've ever cleaned an oven, you usually make the job easier, if it's heated up. While loading up, put the muzzle down, and let it drain out. Plenty of old rags around, wrap one around the barrel, try and keep the gun case from getting to soaked. By the time I get home, the Kroil has had time to loosen everything up, and once or twice with a Hoppe's Tornado brush, usually pretty clean.

  6. #106
    Boolit Mold hockeyref's Avatar
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    New variation on the ChoreBoy method:

    I did this yesterday in a 44 mag.
    I used the normal cleaning jag and patch instead of a brush. I pierced the patch with the jag and wrapped a long single strand from the chore boy around the patch\jag with about 1/16" spacing between wraps. Used it dry and with patch soaked with Kroil.

  7. #107
    Boolit Buddy JLF's Avatar
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    I use mercury. I take all the necessary security measures.
    "When the homeland is in danger, everything is allowed, except not to defend it."

    Gral. Don José de San Martin.

  8. #108
    Boolit Bub
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    ChoreBoy dry a few times, then ChoreBoy and Kroil oil a few times. Barrel is squeaky clean.

  9. #109
    Boolit Master gc45's Avatar
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    Looks like this thread has run its course but I too use choreboy and kroil in several ways but all works for me. I like putting down the bore after shooting let it soak until I get home. Having a huge reloading shop, I like being out there cleaning guns and other stuff. What is COW anyway? a case filler acronym?

  10. #110
    Boolit Master
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    Cream Of Wheat

  11. #111
    Boolit Mold
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    A question, years ago when in a small engine class we would use muriatic acid to remove aluminum build up from a damaged crankshaft and blown piston connecting rod the muriatic acid would eat the aluminum leaving the steel crankshaft clean, my question is would this work with removing lead, just curious,
    USN (ret)

  12. #112
    Boolit Master TurnipEaterDown's Avatar
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    Muriatic acid (dilute hydrochloric) will etch ferrous metals.
    I have used it in years past to dip clean very rusty cast iron cylinder heads, and has worked out OK, but the surface develops a greyish soft surface coating, and as noted other fine pitting. I would not do this to a firearm bore.
    At one time in the past a relative had a patched ball stuck in the bore of a muzzle loader (1980s), and a local gunsmith said to put some sulpheric acid in and it would eat the patch. Relative did it, and ruined the gun. No surprise really, the sulphur compounds in black powder make sulpheric acid when exposed to atmospheric moisture, and this is a mechanism to ruin a bore on a black powder muzzle loading gun by not cleaning it.
    Acids + steels = rust (iron oxides).

  13. #113
    Boolit Mold
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurnipEaterDown View Post
    Muriatic acid (dilute hydrochloric) will etch ferrous metals.
    I have used it in years past to dip clean very rusty cast iron cylinder heads, and has worked out OK, but the surface develops a greyish soft surface coating, and as noted other fine pitting. I would not do this to a firearm bore.
    At one time in the past a relative had a patched ball stuck in the bore of a muzzle loader (1980s), and a local gunsmith said to put some sulpheric acid in and it would eat the patch. Relative did it, and ruined the gun. No surprise really, the sulphur compounds in black powder make sulpheric acid when exposed to atmospheric moisture, and this is a mechanism to ruin a bore on a black powder muzzle loading gun by not cleaning it.
    Acids + steels = rust (iron oxides).
    Thanks for the reply I would not use it on a firearm it was just something I remembered doing years ago and was just curious what the outcome would be, a crankshaft and a connecting rod should be bathed in oil so rust would not be a problem. Bottom line acid and steel don't mix. Thanks again.
    USN (ret)

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check