Why do I keep screwing up Lee 6 Cavity molds.

[Colorado4wheel]

I have had several Lee 6 Cavity molds. Each one was a PITA in some way. They were my first molds but I even tried one after I started using Lyman. It was a steep learning curve for me. Anyway, I have two Lee 2 Cavity molds. I use bullplate and they work fine. No galling, no smearing. They get up to temp quick and cast fast (for a 2 cavity).
My 6 Cavity were always smearing lead, galling the sprueplate. Stuff like that. Is Bullplate that good for Lee Molds. Was there something else I was doing wrong. I really like Lee 125gr 2R mold for 9mm. I would love to have a 6 cavity lee that works. It cast a lot of bullet fast, you don't have to oil them. I still want one and every time I try one they drive me nuts. Any ideas, what perhaps I was doing wrong.

[geargnasher]

There is an entire sticky on "Lee-menting" the six-cavity Lee moulds, it's here and there's also a comprehensive article at Castpics dot net.

Gear

[Colorado4wheel]

It's not about the bullets. It was a constant issue with galling and smearing the lead on the cavity closest to the sprue pivot.

[shotman]

Kroil

[Cherokee]

I have a 6cv of that bullet, no problem for me. I've only cast 6-7000 from mine so far so maybe I haven't seen the problem yet. I have 7 Lee 6cv moulds that work great for me. Bullplate really makes a difference for my use, only need a little.

[Boolseye]

Yes, bullplate is great for lee molds, including 6-cav. Lube it up good, then wipe it off as per instructions. I use bullplate on the mold block tops and sprue plate, Alox/beeswax 50/50 on the connecting pins, rods, bolts and bushings, what have you. Personal choice. Only a little bit of either (BP or 50/50). Keep the handle and sprue plate bolts snug. Try to be somewhat gentle with the aluminum molds, and they'll reward you with good boolits for a good long time.

[coloraydo]

Just a thought, but is the cavity by the sprue plate pivot point by chance the last one poured? IReason I ask is, that is where the most leverage is when cutting the sprue, so I always poured that one first, as it would cool the earliest.

[frankenfab]

Take the mold apart. Sand the top of the mold, and the bottom of the sprue plate with 320 grit sandpaper wrapped around something vey flat and hard, like a piece of glass or new sharpening stone. Check the sprue holes and remove lead with a toothpick if necessary.

Clean those surfaces, re-assemble the mold, and adjust the sprueplate to a good firm tension. The Lee 6 cavity molds I have all have an aluminum sprue plate. I think it helps to push down on the sprue handle when cutting the sprues.

This is included in and/or in addition to all the info in the link gearnasher posted.

[DLCTEX]

If you are getting that much smearing you are cutting too early. Let the sprue cool until the sprue flashes dull, that is the metal will become dull in appearance. If you still have smearing wait a few seconds more until you find the rhythm that doesn't smear. If it takes too long then your alloy is too hot.

[HammerMTB]

I think I have about 8 Lee 6-cavs now. A couple were gifted to me by those who did not make them work. Every one casts good boolits.
I use Bullplate. Wish I knew right now what I'd use once that's gone....
I also pressure pour all of my 6-cavs. It makes for a minimal sprue, and seems faster to me.
When the mold gets a bit too hot, I can tell, and I rest it for a bit. I know there are several techniques to get the mold temp back down, but a minute's rest seems to do it for me. I can return sprues to the pot while I wait.
I also use a PID controller. I think your pot temp may be too hot, causing slow solidification of the sprue.
My $.02....

[Old Caster]

I think you could try pouring at one end and the next time pouring from the other. The reason is because if you always use the same end to start from, one end of the mould will be a lot hotter than the other. It is possible to have one end getting low enough in temperature that you can have fill problems while the other end is hot enough to smear lead when the sprue is cut. I find that when I vary ends my cadence is interupted but I have no choice. The size of the bullet in question might make this vary also. In order to prove whether this is the problem fill the opposite from what you were doing and see it the problem crops up on the other end.

[waksupi]

http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...menting&page=2

A good place to start with Lee molds.

[steg]

+1 with DLCTEX, Slow down a bit, it helped me..And
HammerMTX, I ran out of Bull Plate once, and tried 2-cycle oil, it's all i use now.............................steg

[Colorado4wheel]

If you are getting that much smearing you are cutting too early. Let the sprue cool until the sprue flashes dull, that is the metal will become dull in appearance. If you still have smearing wait a few seconds more until you find the rhythm that doesn't smear. If it takes too long then your alloy is too hot.

I think it is a combination of these things and not using bullplate lube. I have been thinking about it and I am pretty sure the I remember using lube and candle wax to lube the pivot. Never remember using Bullplate lube. Then I was also having some fill out issues and I was running the mold HOT. Probably too hot.

[williamwaco]

I have had several Lee 6 Cavity molds. Each one was a PITA in some way. They were my first molds but I even tried one after I started using Lyman. It was a steep learning curve for me. Anyway, I have two Lee 2 Cavity molds. I use bullplate and they work fine. No galling, no smearing. They get up to temp quick and cast fast (for a 2 cavity).
My 6 Cavity were always smearing lead, galling the sprueplate. Stuff like that. Is Bullplate that good for Lee Molds. Was there something else I was doing wrong. I really like Lee 125gr 2R mold for 9mm. I would love to have a 6 cavity lee that works. It cast a lot of bullet fast, you don't have to oil them. I still want one and every time I try one they drive me nuts. Any ideas, what perhaps I was doing wrong.

Curiously, I have the exact opposite problem. I consider Lee two cavity molds to be a disposable supply item. I have never had one last more then 2000 bullets. My six cavitiy molds are like the Energizer Bunny, they just keep going and going.

Seriously, I think you are casting either too hot, or too fast. Either will cause the results you describe.

I seriously suggest you do not use the paraffin or bees wax to lube either your sprue plate or the hinge. I know it is an accepted practice and I did it myself for decades but even if I use the smallest manageable amount and apply it only when the cavities are full, I ALWAYS get some in the back cavity and have a run of 20 to 50 wrinkled bullets from that cavity.

I now use Bullplate or Locktite copper based anti sieze.

[W.R.Buchanan]

If there is galling on top of the mould blocks then Frankenfabs solution is what needs to be done to start, however there is a little more to it.

You lay a "new" piece of 320 or finer grit wet or dry sandpaper on a flat surface. A piece of glass works well. A table or counter is NOT what you're looking for here,,, it needs to be a piece glass, ground steel or a granite surface plate.

If you shoot some WD40 on the underside of the paper it will stick to the glass so you can work with it and not have the paper sliding around. You also need to put WD40 on the top to keep the pores of the paper open while lapping.

When Flat Lapping anything you must use a Figure 8 pattern of movement. This will generate a flat surface. If you use a back and forth motion it will generate a spherical or parabolic surface neither of which you want. You are not making a telescope mirror!

It is VERY IMPORTANT that you do not rock the mould blocks to one side or another. They MUST be kept in full contact with the sand paper, and must be kept together at all times . DO NOT try to do one half at a time!

This is the main reason for the WD40. It not only keeps the sand paper open to cut , it lubricates the piece you're lappng so it doesn't stick to the sand paper and rock. This is very important. Very little downward pressure is used, you have to let the abrasive do the work.

Also flat lap the bottom of the sprue plate in the same manner. This will get rid of any burrs or lead build up on that surface which will cause problems.

You must lubricate the hinge pins etc with something that will not burn off.

This will fix any problems with the mould you have made by mishandling or lead buiildup.

Then follow the other instructions given above until you have success.

Anytime you get lead build up or galling repeat the lapping process. You couldn't remove enough metal from the steel sprue plate to ever hurt it, however if you don't keep the top of the mould perfectly flat on the lapping surface it is very difficult to make it flat again by lapping. There are ways to do it but they are beyond the capabilities of most Booliteers.

Hope these tips help. I have flat lapped about 2 Bazillion parts in my 35 years in machine shop land, and it is an easy thing to do. It is also an easy thing to do wrong. Following the tips above will keep you out of trouble. But in the end it is better not to create the problems in the first place.

Randy

[Recluse]

I gave my Lee six-cavity molds away.

Unlike the vast majority, I get along okay with the Lee 2-cavity molds. I spend about an hour prepping them, then lap them ever so slightly. That and Bullplate and they drop perfect, consistent boolits for me.

But, more often than not, it's the boolit design itself I like and not the mold. But for $20, I can afford to try out various boolit designs.

The six-bangers were just an endless source of frustration for me. I cast for fun and relaxation. I don't need to crank out high-volume, so the two-bangers (of any brand) work out just fine for me.

[10x]

I have several dozen lee molds and have yet to have an issue with any of them while casting. One is a 150 grain 30 cal purchased almost 40 years ago and it has had over 10,000 bullets through it. I learned to cast with that mold and it still gives a good bullet.

Not one of the Lee molds I have used needed "improvement" and the six cavities I have work extremely well.

Or maybe I just live right???

[500cadillac]

There is one thing not mentioned yet. Some sprue plates have very dull cutting edges. This can smear lead even when it has cooled down a bunch.

You can sharpen them with a small round file, or a grinding stone on a die grinder, etc.

[DLCTEX]

Williamwaco: I'm curious how you use up a lee mould in less than 2000 casts? What are the symptoms that cause you to say it's done? Some of mine have 10's of thousands of casts on them and are still casting good boolits.