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Thread: dirty powders

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy tuckerdog's Avatar
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    dirty powders

    I've noticed a bunch of folks saying they wont use this powder or that because it burns dirty. Now I,m not talking about crusty nasty dirty, but powders like unique 2400 and the like I get good performance out of a few powders that "burn dirty" and have yet to see any detrimental effect to my firearms in a couple decades of using such powders. Unique and 2400 are "cleaner" burning than they used to be but after testing 500 rounds in one session the fouling only became a problem after about 200 rounds and groups opened up. I have seen this with several firearms. the round count varys from gun to gun but over all things are running pretty good. Other than a few kernels in the bore could someone explain the detriment
    It don't make much sense that commonsense don't make no sense nomore

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  2. #2
    Boolit Master
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    Yeah, when I used to shoot Unique and lead bullets in my .45 Auto, I would clean the gun every 5k rounds or so. Not that it was less accurate, but simply because I wanted to see the bluing again.
    Of course, the people who complain about dirty powders, also clean their guns after every session...

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy watkibe's Avatar
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    Yep, I get a secret thrill out of using "dirty" powders myself !
    "A society that values equality above liberty will have neither. A society that values liberty above equality will have plenty of both " - Milton Friedman

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    MY beef with powders like Unique and Bullseye was the residue. In a tight 1911 a couple hundred round got you failures to function.

    Switched to WW 542AA ( now Super Target) and 1000 to 1500 was the new "norm"!

    As far as 2400 is concerned? Never again!

    Didn't seem to matter what primer I used or how tight the boolit pull was 6 rounds would leave unburned powder everywhere! After 6 I would have to brush under the extractor star just to get the old 29 to close without binding! Many was the time I took a piece of white construction paper with me and shook out enough unburned powder to load another round!

    2400 may have it's place but I have yet to find it!

    noylj is correct: those who need to have a gun function every tiime all the time look for very clean powders to load with!

  5. #5
    Boolit Buddy Inkman's Avatar
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    I mainly shoot 1911s in USPSA and exclusively used Bullseye because it was cheap and when The Messiah got elected, it was one of the few powders available in quantity. I only shoot lead (never jacketed or factory ammo) and yes it was smokey and somewhat dirty, but on the other hand, i shoot a ton and need to clean my guns often so it's no big deal to me. Shot some VV N320 and it was much less smokey and cleaner but also twice the cost. Haven't shot enough VV yet to decide on switching powders just yet.

    Al

  6. #6
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    Dirty powders foul the works of just about any gun eventually, and unlike what Noylj mentioned, I like a clean powder because I DON'T clean my guns after every session if I don't have to (just a wipedown is all they need with clean-burning loads), but if I don't get all the unburned or partially burned residue out of the works it attracts moisture and causes rust over time.

    I remember one time I came back from an IDPA match and I was so covered with Unique filth (not to mention the gun) that my wife wouldn't even kiss me at the door, just wrinkled up her nose and said I was filthy and smelled like rotten eggs. That was enough for me. I smelled my shirt later after cleaning up and she was right. Now I use Universal for that application.

    I'm also in the camp that has never, ever, gotten 2400 to burn cleanly. I don't think it's possible. I only use it when there is no other powder that will do the same job on target, and there are some cases when that's true.

    Gear

  7. #7
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    I guess it boils down to this. Powders that some people dislike or even hate to look at are the same powders that other people enjoy to use with decent results and don`t mind cleaning their guns after shooting.Robert

  8. #8
    Boolit Master thehouseproduct's Avatar
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    I tried switching from WST to AA#5 in 38 Special and couldn't take the mess. I don't want to clean guns after every trip to the range.
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  9. #9
    Boolit Master XWrench3's Avatar
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    What i have found is that many powders burn "dirty" when running them at reduced loads. When using them in full pressure loads, this "problem" goes away. For what it is worth, a fast powder in a reduced load seems to burn much cleaner than a slower powder.
    Silver and Gold are for rich men. Lead and Brass is MY silver and gold! And when push comes to shove, one of my silver and gold pieces will be more valuable than a big pile of actual silver and gold.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master GabbyM's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thehouseproduct View Post
    I tried switching from WST to AA#5 in 38 Special and couldn't take the mess. I don't want to clean guns after every trip to the range.
    I burned a pound of AA#5 through my 9mm a few years back. I found it to be clean burning at the 30,000 psi we run 9mm at. It also delivered on the listed book velocity without excessive pressure signs like expanding case heads. After trying several powder types in 9mm the AA#5 is one of my favorites To bad I didn’t buy a four pound can of it instead of what I have. WW 231, Power Pistol and Unique rate behind AA#5 in the 9mm in my load book.

  11. #11
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    I was told by the Alliant guy at the last SHOT show that the reason why some powders don't burn as clean as other s is because they never reach their efficient burning pressure.

    Specifically, Bullseye burns dirty in a .45 simply because it never gets to a high enough pressure to burn clean. It might work just fine in a 9MM.

    W231 does, so now I use that, as I don't clean my Glocks hardly ever.

    my .02

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  12. #12
    L Ross
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    Just got back in the house after firing 48 rounds of old classic Keith 44 mag reloads featuring the now discredited 22.0 gr of old 2400. How old, well the primers used were round faced, I'm just guessing these were loaded in the late 1960's. Wow, that's what a 44 mag is supposed to be. One handed in a Super Blackhawk and the muzzle is almost straight up in recoil. NRA full size chicken silhouettes slammed off the rail at 35 yards. Cylinder clean, bore, clean, no kernels, a bit of soot, no lead from the 1/16 245 gr 429421's. Oh and a nice fireball in the post sunset evening light. I think those who postulate the enough pressure helps with clean burning have a good point.

    Duke

  13. #13
    Boolit Master
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    Ummm, sorry. I shoot custom guns by Jim Boland, Clark, and LimCat. They are tight and VERY reliable with Uniaue over at least 5k rounds. I have no idea what loads you are shooting that cause malfunctions in your guns. Even the powder kernals are flat, thin, and flexible. If you are getting gritty residue, it isn't Unique.
    People who want reliability, fire a lot of rounds to establish that reliability and don't worry about appearances but performance.
    When my guns choke, I can almost always trace it to one problem--some case problem from reloading out of the 2-5k I worked up in my 1050.
    I don't have time to drop them all in the barrel or some silly case gage, but I take the blame for not having spotted some case problem. I have eliminated this, as best I can tell, over the last 10k rounds in .40S&W and .45 Auto using the Lee Bulge Buster kit. Still have a 1 out of a 1000 or so problem in .38 super, 9x21, and 9x19 (no bulge buster FCD available).
    The only problem I had with "dirty" powders in revolvers were some of the "spherical" powders that would get under the star. Made sure in PPC competition that I always held the cylinder straight up and down when I ejected the cases and blew on the star as I brought the speedloader up.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy Huntducks's Avatar
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    As long as it's accurate and priced to use that's all I care about, but I also own a box full of cleaning ****.

  15. #15
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    My only complain with dirty powders is in my 686 it makes a mess, my hands get coated with it and also all over the gun. Unique is dirty in my 45 and Glock but that does not matter so much. I switch over to WSF for 9mm only because it meters much better and being cleaner was a bonus.
    For the 1911 I still use Bulllseye as it seems to be easy for me to get really good accuracy out of it. I can handle a dirty powder for best accuracy.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
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    I shoot mostly black powder revolver cartridges in 45 Colt with 250gr boolits with lots of sloppy lube. You wussies complain of dirty smokeless powder?

    prs

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    IMO, Unique may be dirty, (the newer batches claim to be cleaner) but for handguns, rifles and scatterguns, it is the best all around powder available. It may not do any the best, but it will do the job for all. And that is why I have more than an adequate supply always on hand.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master

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    One persons idea of dirty is very different from anothers. My middle son and I currently share an AR-15 (until his lower arrives). When he takes it he complains to everyone that I leave it dirty. But then he is a Marine and feels you must be able to eat off of all of the parts.

  19. #19
    Boolit Grand Master







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    Just my opinion, but new batches today of pdrs like unique are a whale of a lot cleaner than it was just a few years ago.
    1Shirt!
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  20. #20
    Boolit Master



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    Quit your moaning and groaning!

    A couple of years ago I was lured into the Holy Black. A Winchester 1885 in 50-90 was followed by a 38-55 H&R Target Classic. Then I started to mess with BP in some of my revolvers.

    What a hoot. I just love the deep booming report from a case full of BP from my .41 Mag Smith 57 and my Ruger Bisley BH in .44 Special. Yes they are slower to reload because of the the inability to run them thru a progressive loader but the joys outweigh the cons.

    There is nothing like that big booming report, large cloud of white smoke and then the CLANG of the lead smacking into the steel. It does however require a thorough cleaning of the firearm after shooting unless you like rust and caked on grunge. And yes I stink of sulphur and sweat when I get done but I love it.

    The recoil from BP is more like a solid big push rather than a sharp smack into the hands that I got from full power smokeless rounds. And yes the velocity is lower with BP but the paper and steel does not complain.

    With any powder at all my Browning Hi Power will start to slow and malfunction after I get 250 or more rounds thru it. A fast application of Break Free and a wipe down of the guts gets it back into action fast. The Taurus 1911 only needs a few drops of oil or Break Free after about 400 rounds and it is ready for another couple of hundred rounds.

    My next ambition is to lay my paws on a Flintlock rifle to free me from the need to use primers as the scarcity of those little guys and the cost may make the Flintlock king of the guns WTSHTF days finally arrive. How long will the primers you have last after all the ammo makers no longer make primers? A year? Maybe two?

    At least with a Flinter you can make your own powder and ball ammo and you are not dependent on any of the modern manufacturers for anything. Real slow to load but accurate enuf and it is a gun. Without primers or ammo all the modern M-16's and its ilk are nothing more than inefficient clubs.

    I do miss the days when I could buy FMJ 9 MM bullets for less than 4 cents a piece. I had better stop now since I have just dated myself as a Trogdolite.
    Pax Nobiscum Dan (Crash) Corrigan

    Currently casting, reloading and shooting: 223 Rem, 6.5x55 Sweede, 30 Carbine, 30-06 Springfield, 30-30 WCF, 303 Brit., 7.62x39, 7.92x57 Mauser, .32 Long, 32 H&R Mag, 327 Fed Mag, 380 ACP. 9x19, 38 Spcl, 357 Mag, 38-55 Win, 41 Mag, 44 Spcl., 44 Mag, 45 Colt, 45 ACP, 454 Casull, 457 RB for ROA and 50-90 Sharps. Shooting .22 LR & 12 Gauge seldom and buying ammo for same.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check