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Thread: gp100 trigger springs

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy jballs918's Avatar
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    gp100 trigger springs

    well i was told that the gp100 have a pretty tuff trigger on them. so i went looking on midway to see if they have the spring set and they do. now my questions is this a doit yourself thing or is this something i need to get a parts changer to do. thanks guys

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    dragonrider's Avatar
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    Assuming you mean the hammer spring It's a DIY job. On the inside of one of the grips you will find a pin, cock the hammer and insert the pin in the hole you will see in the hammer strut then release the hammer and you can remove the strut and carefully remove the spring from the strut and replace change the spring. If the pin is missing you can use a small allen wrench or nail.
    Paul G.
    Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

    The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
    -- R. Buckminster Fuller

  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    jballs918
    I replace the trigger and hammer springs in a Super Redhawk and a Security-Six. It is a bit tedious, but very doable. Just disassemble the handgun on a white bed sheet--easy to find dropped pieces!!!
    I got my springs from Wolff Springs. They were very good and they give a variety pack so you can try different weights. Here is a link to them:

    http://www.gunsprings.com/

    Good-luck...BCB

  4. #4
    Boolit Master

    TCLouis's Avatar
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    Smile Think is in this gun . . .

    fiddling with the trigger group (wear safety glasses)ther is a plunger and plunger spring that will launch into orbit and will be real hard to find.

    I finally had to buy new ones from Ruger.

    Hammer alne is a cinch, but test in warm and cold weather. The lightest spring worked great in my SRH all summer, but I got misfires once it cooled off good. The misfires always fired on the sccond strike!
    Amendments
    The Second there to protect the First!

  5. #5
    Boolit Master

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    TCLouis is indeed correct. Springs can go flying--that is why I suggested the use of a white bed sheet or some other material that will show contrast. He is also correct about the hammer spring. I started with the lightest on the trigger and the hammer. I got misfires also. I went to the middle weight (don't remember what it was now) and I have had no misfires at all. The spring changes in my SRH and my Security-Six made both of these Rugers fine shooters. The double action improved many times. I can actually shoot them double action with amazing accuracy...BCB

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
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    I have installed a few spring kits in my Rugers and Smiths. I usually go back to stock spring weights-lock time seems a bit faster and the reliabilty is better. I would just change the hammer spring at first (easy). Light polishing of SOME surfaces makes it feel smoother me. See if you like it after a few weeks/months and do NOT trust your newly tuned pistol for defense until it has proven to go "BANG" each and every time. Federal primers where always best when I had a light mainspring. CCI's have a lot harder cups (misfires with light hit). Winchester and Remington primers are in the middle. Good luck and have fun

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Change the spring in a large clear plastic bag!
    Aim small, miss small!

  8. #8
    Boolit Master

    GP100man's Avatar
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    be sure to take out trigger return spring & polish where the plungers ride for the 10# return spring & lube good.
    i polished mine with drill bit & lapping compound.
    it took the gritty feel out
    i like the reliability & lock time of the 12#hammer spring.

    GP

  9. #9
    Boolit Grand Master leftiye's Avatar
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    I don't know how this sounds, but it has proven out over and over for me. If you want a preliminary test that will tell you if a hammer strike (spring weight)is strong enough to be reliable, load 20 cases with primers, and fire them. Use the heavy cup CCI primers, not the wimpy ones. Believe it or not, if none of them fail to fire, you're probably home free. It doesn't sound like 20 would be sufficient, but it just may be. It has worked well for me. Or use 30 tests, whatever.

    Next put the cleaned revolter in the freezer (oiled as you wish, the thicker the oil, the more the problems will be) lightly oiled. When well frozed bring it out, and repeat the test. If no failures to fire then, there is a very high probability that you won't ever have hammer strike problems

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check