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Thread: Accurate Sprue Plate Always Loose

  1. #1
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    Accurate Sprue Plate Always Loose

    Pretty much whats on the title, Ive got a brass mold from accurate, and I absolutely adore the thing, but the sprue plate loosens up all the time, I keep an allen wrench handy to tighten it back up, but it gets old. Anybody got any suggestions for keeping it tight?

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    I've never had one of Tom's molds but I would be very suprised if there is not a lock screw holding the sprue plate bolt. Check the side of the mold. Should be an allen set screw that intersects with the sprue plate bolt. Loosen this if it is not loose, set your desired tension, tighten the set screw.
    Wayne the Shrink

    There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
    white eagle's Avatar
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    I doubt you will find one
    if it will not hold put one in yourself
    or contact Tom I am certain he will make it rite
    for ya
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  4. #4
    Boolit Master in Heaven's Range onesonek's Avatar
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    Initially I was was just tightening the sprue bolt just so the weight of the plate would barely open it. (not really knowing what is correct regardless of mold design).
    That I found would loosen in a few pours. There was another discussion about this,,,Tom chimmed in and said, they are designed to be tighened down snuggly against the bolt shoulder, and still have proper tension. This might be a bit tighter than some are use to, but it works. They stay when torqued down, and I open with a gloved thumb, leaving nice clean sprue cuts when my timing is right. If a little quick I get minor cratering.
    Last edited by onesonek; 06-19-2011 at 09:57 AM.
    Dave

  5. #5
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    Tom has explained this before: Torque the sprue plate pivot screw. It has a shoulder, ground at the correct depth to give correct tension when the shoulder is tight against the bottom of the blocks.

    I have several of Tom's moulds and have never, ever had a problem with the plates loosening while casting, because I take an "ell-shaped" allen wrench and give it a good pull with thumb and index finger on the long side. Don't overdo it, just enough to keep it tight.

    Gear

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
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    I had the same issue. I was baffled by the lack of a set screw until Tom chimed in about the shoulder on the bolt. I have since tightened it very snugly against the shoulder, and have not had an issue since. It's a fantastic mold.
    Lyman 22596,225107,225353,225438,225415,225450,225646, 225462,228367,244203,245496,245497,245498,245499 RCBS 22-55-SP,22-55-FP,243-95-SP,243-100-FP, NEI 100244GC-#14, 55 224 GC-#4,225 45-#3 PB, NOE 22-055 SP,MX2-243,Saeco 221 & 243, RD TLC225-50-RF,Lee 22 Bator 6c & 2c HP. Love casting small boolits, let me know if you have one that I don't that you would part with!

  7. #7
    Boolit Buddy TomAM's Avatar
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    When I designed my mold blocks, it was important to me to make them work without set screws. Casting for all these years, I had developed a serious loathing for those weak, tiny little set screws on mass produced molds that were always coming lose.

    I counterbored the mold block so the shoulder screw could be snugged down and bottom out at the correct height. The design has met with mixed response, with some people finding they need to use a little Loctite.

    I’ve just finished development of a four cavity mold block. With the extra length of the sprew plate, the level of adjustability needed for both the hinge and stop screws requires me to use my old nemesis, the set screw. But the ones I’m using ain’t tiny, and they ain’t weak.

    Soon all of my block sizes will use this new screw system. If you’d like your mold set up with a new style hinge screw and set screw, just return it and I’ll fix it up for free.

  8. #8
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    Ive always liked how you have treated your customers. +1,000

    I love your design, and I was aware of the shoulder that you designed into it to hold the proper tension with the spring, I spotted that before ever using the mold. I have an eye for things that are designed right.

    I wasnt sure how much torque to put on the threads, brass is strong, but when it goes, it goes. I was afraid to strip it. I just might send the mold back for a tune up, we'll see. I hate to be without it, its my only mold, and my only caliber.

    Its the one you helped me design, the 40-160b, the bullet in my avatar. Free advertising for ya' =D It casts them with WW, at 167.5 grains, and they fly straight. I use a bullet trap, and you can tell they are flying right. Also, when shooting a steel plate, you can see the print from the meplate, so you can tell they are hitting square on with the target.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master turbo1889's Avatar
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    Another option for future reference when buying an AM mold is to get a magma type machine casting mold (1 or 2 cavity) set up for hand casting with a hand casting sprue plate kit. This is a very, very nice set-up that allows you to tweak the sprue plate tension to your hearts content and you are already set for upgrading to an automatic casting machine later on.




  10. #10
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    Those things are works of art. We're really in the Golden Age of casting right now, with guys like Miha and Tom, BABore, Al Nelson, Buckshot, Patmarlin, Lathesmith, Magma Engineering, the list goes on.

    Gear

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    You got that right gear. Ordered another from Tom today, thinking two more from him shortly. Just love his 3 cavity brass.

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BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
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