Hello all. I am planning on going out after moose this fall with my T/C omega, and would welcome advice on bullet choice and powder charge to start with. Thanks in advance!
Hello all. I am planning on going out after moose this fall with my T/C omega, and would welcome advice on bullet choice and powder charge to start with. Thanks in advance!
Caliber?
Saboted or plain bullet?
Cast or jacketed?
Larry Gibson
Greetings
Gun--- M68
Caliber--- 105mm
Projectile--- Sabot
FPS--- 5000 plus
But you might need the M60A1 hull and engine pack to haul it around.. throw in the turret for fun. But it sure will stop Bullwinkle J.
"Come unto Me, all you who labor and are heavy burdened, and I will give you rest." Matthew 11:28
Male Guanaco out in dry lakebed at 10,800 feet south of Arequipa.
Yes of course......I am shooting a .50 cal, and would like to shoot a plain cast bullet, and am thinkin about runnin 777 behind it. sorry for the lack of info. Chris
This is my favorite hunting load for my .50 cal TC Blk Mtn Magnum. It has a 28" twist and is rated for 150 gr charges of Pyrodex under a 300 gr saboted slug. If yours is comparable then I'd recommend working up to this load;
Bullet; 375 gr MaxiBall cast in TC mold but Lyman also has it available
Alloy; 1-20 or 1-16 to take the accelleration- expands excellently in game
Lube; My own of 6 parts beeswax & 5 parts virgin olive oil but Bore Butter 1000+ works just as well, I lube the bottom groove only
Powder; 90 gr(V) of 777 FFg
Velocity; 1570 fps
Accuracy; as shown in photo-6 shots with 5 loaded from speed loaders at 100 yards with no cleaning or wiping of barrel between shots
Deadly on deer, elk and a few unfortunate coyote's.
Larry Gibson
Last edited by Larry Gibson; 08-07-2011 at 05:13 PM.
Thank you Larry. I have the 320 grain lee R.E.A.L. mold, and a 370 grain Lyman maxiball mold, and now a direction to start. My T/C Omega is one of the newer ones rated for 150 grains of propellant, but my twist rate escapes me at the moment. The rifle was designed with sabots in mind, so I'll have to see how she shoots! I'll keep ya posted. Chris
I personally prefer sabots in my 50 cal muzzleloader with my own 429 CB's for elk in front of 80 gr of FFF. That may sound like a light charge but those elk do tumble quickly. I shoulder shot one from 40 yards and the huge cow was lifted completely off the ground at impact (over 500# since the two halves weighted over 300 at the butcher). Both the 240 CB's and the 310 CB's work equally well.
For deer I use just PRB.
Thank you quilbilly, just a quick question then. Which mold do you use to cast the 240, and 310?
The Saboted bullets, jacketed and cast, shoot real well in my Blk Mtn Magnum too. I had intended on using it with the Pyrodex bellets but as soon as I drew a ML tag in Oregon they changed the regs to no saboted bullets and loose powder only......thus I went to the MaxiBall and it works for me. I would go back to the saboted bullets in this rifle if I hunt elsewhere and it's legal. I found the Lee 310 gr .44 and the 300 gr .45 handgun bullets cast of 50/50 alloy at 2000 fps with 3 pellets (50 gr each) of Pyrodex was accurate and should have been deadly on deer or elk but I didn't get a chance to find out....maybe someday. Now they make several specialty cast bullets just for sabots in MLs. I've often wondered what the Lyman .44 "Devestator" HP over 3 pellets of Pyrodex would do....if accurate and at 2000+ fps it should be a good varmint load for the ML and if loaded down to 1500 fps or so it should do very well on deer and pigs.
Larry Gibson
Get ahold of Randy Rat.
I need to have him cast up a bunch more of his 370 gr Maxi ball.
He made me a bunch that were pure lead for my Hawkins but I wonder if a harded antimony would not be better when paper patched in the TC OMEGA.
I want to try that and see what happens
Your 370 gr Maxi ball. It is the best. I call it the Thumper.
Try loading 150 grains of FF with a small cotton ball soaked in crisco& Beeswax over the powder and under the Maxiball. Lube the Maxiball with Beeswax. ( Randy I need Beeswax also)
the cotten seals the gas and asorbs the shock for smooth acceleration
I would try wrapping the cotten up inside the paper patch to make a nice smooth loading cartridge unit with the 150 grans of FF actually wrapped in the paper also. just need something to act as a primer flash accelerator on the bottom of the paper so it goes pop when the 209 goes pop.
Any ideas?
Wicked,
Try soaking your paper in a saturated solution of water and saltpeter. I use that for combustible cartridges.
(Soak and dry throughly before making up cartridges. Should go without saying but just in case)
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |