Load DataRotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters SupplyLee Precision
Snyders JerkyInline FabricationWidenersTitan Reloading
Reloading Everything Repackbox
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 27

Thread: I've done messed up BAD!

  1. #1
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    97

    I've done messed up BAD!

    My new Lee mold arrived today from Midwayusa. I'm fairly new to casting so I was excited as a schoolgirl at a boy band concert. Right away I started up the pot, blah, blah, blah.

    When everything was ready, before I could even make the first pour, I accidentally dropped the new mold into the pot while trying to preheat the damn thing. What's worse, I decided to submerge the whole block into the pot hoping it would melt off the lead. NOPE, made it much worst. The longer I leave the mold in the pot, the more lead cling onto it. :crying:

    What was going to be a nice uninterrupted afternoon of casting quickly turned into an afternoon full of frustrations involving the use of every profanity words known to man.

    After sometime scrubbing the mold down, I managed to get most of it off. There's still a bit of lead in the more hard to reach places, causing the two blocks to not be able to close completely shut. There's still quite a bit of lead inside the cavity grooves. Tomorrow, I think I will try again to melt off the left over lead, didn't want to scrub too hard and damage the cavities.

    Any other suggestions to safely clean off all the lead inside the cavities?






  2. #2
    Banned
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    612
    Time to buy a new mold. Some lessons are cheaper than others.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Posts
    359
    Fire up your smelting pot and get it really hot and dunk it for a while,get the aluminum hot enough the lead lets go. You really have nothing to loose.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master WILCO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    20 minutes from a Tiki Bar!
    Posts
    6,337
    Quote Originally Posted by dmize View Post
    Fire up your smelting pot and get it really hot and dunk it for a while,get the aluminum hot enough the lead lets go. You really have nothing to loose.
    Best answer. Get the pot hot, dunk it and the lead will flow out. It was made worse earlier because the mold wasn't up to temp and the alloy was cold too.
    No big deal really.
    "Everyone has a plan, until they get punched in the face!" - Mike Tyson

    "Don't let my fears become yours." - Me, talking to my children

    That look on your face, when you shift into 6th gear, but it's not there.

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master WILCO's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    20 minutes from a Tiki Bar!
    Posts
    6,337
    Quote Originally Posted by Bwana View Post
    Time to buy a new mold. Some lessons are cheaper than others.
    "Everyone has a plan, until they get punched in the face!" - Mike Tyson

    "Don't let my fears become yours." - Me, talking to my children

    That look on your face, when you shift into 6th gear, but it's not there.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master
    dragonrider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Linwood, Ma. USA
    Posts
    3,431
    What they said, you just did not let it get hot enough.
    Paul G.
    Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

    The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
    -- R. Buckminster Fuller

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
    adrians's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    just out there
    Posts
    1,142
    don't buy a new mold ,just do what wilco said and thy lead be gone = fixed,,
    i.m just sitting here watching the wheels go round and round..... i really love to watch them roll ,,,, J,W,L.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Posts
    51
    Propane torch maybe? Just enough heat to melt the lead. Too much and it may warp, etc.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master

    Hamish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Edge of The Crab Orchard National Wildlife Refuge
    Posts
    3,571
    If you don't have one, go buy a ten dollar propane torch and you are going to make yourself vomit when you see the PB run off like water off a ducks back. Congratulations! You officially have your big goof-up out of the way and it's all fun from here!
    More "This is what happened when I,,,,," and less "What would happen if I,,,,"

    Last of the original Group Buy Honcho's.

    "Dueling should have never been made illegal in this country. It settled lots of issues between folks."- Char-Gar

  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Southern Illinois
    Posts
    6,134
    What they said. After you get it hot and most the lead off tap it with something to help the lead get out of the little nooks and cranied. Not something hard like a hammer but something that won't damage the mould like a wood piece of broom handle. After that you can get out the little stuff left fairly easy. Live and learn, no big deal.
    Aim small, miss small!

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Castlegar, B.C., Canada
    Posts
    7,942
    Absolutely, heat it gently with a torch until the lead just starts to melt then most of the lead will drip off. What doesn't drip off can be wiped off with a rag or paper towel. If there are stubborn bits where the mould blocks are held onto the handles or in nooks and crannies then a toothpick or sliver of wood will scrape it out. Just don't use anything harder than wood ~ no metal edges like screwdrivers!

    Make sure the mould faces are lead free by heating then thoroughly wiping.

    The lead will not stick to the aluminum once the lead is melted. It may tin to the steel sprue plate some though being new the bluing should prevent that but again ~ enough heat to just melt then wipe off.

    Take it easy and you will be okay.

    Longbow

  12. #12
    Banned


    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    29˚68’27”N, 99˚12’07”W
    Posts
    14,662
    +1 Longow and others. No need to buy a new mould. I've never managed to warp a Lee mould, and I've even dropped a hot six-banger in the quench bucket when both handles slid off the tangs at once. I've quenched two-bangers, too, and taken off the sprue plates for "de-smearing" with a propane torch, they do tin in some instances, but a lot of heat and a dry rag takes care of it.

    Gear

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master
    white eagle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    718 miles E. of Wall Drug
    Posts
    6,180
    I would try the torch idea
    and get your self a hot plate to pre-heat the mold
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  14. #14
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    4,116
    The situation looks worse than what it is, and there is no need to buy another.

    Do not use synthetic material, to wipe the mould, as it will melt. Use something like an all cotton towel or T-shirt.

    If you haven't already done so, throw the Lee instructions away, read the Leementing sticky and Leement the mould.

    Post some pictures of your clean and looking like new mould.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master


    randyrat's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    North West Wisconsin
    Posts
    2,651
    Yep, as stated earlier. You have to realize the mold and handles act like a heat sink, so get everything real HOT. I did it twice, had lead everywhere,took me a week to recover emotionally and a week to figure it out.
    I emptied the pot and put pure lead in it, then got it super HOT,dipped the mold for a good 10 minutes, it sucked all the lead right off the mold.

  16. #16
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Miamisburg, Oh
    Posts
    956
    Heat is the answer as others hve said. I had almost the exact same accident you had with a two cavity Lee 452-228-1R 45-230-RN.

    A propane torch, heavy duty automotive paper towel, a sharpened bamboo chopstick and a bit of elbow grease took care of the problem. It will probably take you a couple hours, or at least it did me.

    Good luck and welcome to the wonderful world of casting!
    How's that hope and change working for you?

  17. #17
    Boolit Grand Master

    mdi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    So. Orygun
    Posts
    7,240
    I have some "mini-torches" laying around, the type that use butane lighter gas. I used them for light soldering and heat shrink tube melting in the field. I have used them to remove smaller spots of lead and in a situation like yours I'd use a home shop type propane torch along with an old towel.
    My Anchor is holding fast!

  18. #18
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    virginia
    Posts
    152
    Holy smokes!! We need to hang out because I am the clumsiest guy I know and I have yet to do that. Hit it with a torch and you will be fine. Good luck.

  19. #19
    In Remembrance
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    SW Washington
    Posts
    1,118

    Tampico brush

    propane torch and about five minutes.

    Don't use a nylon toothbrush on a hot mould like I did.

    Life is good

  20. #20
    Boolit Man
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    97
    Okay, here is a little update:

    Dipping the mold into the hot lead didn't work for me. I had the pot at max setting (4-20 pot) for 30 minutes, then submerged the mold for 10 minutes. Didn't work. Same result as before, the lead would turn to liquid, but as soon as I pull out the mold, the lead quickly cool and cling onto the mold blocks. I think part of the reason is due to the cool, rainy weather around here, causing the lead to cool too quickly before dripping off. However, it still did do some good.

    Although the lead would not melt from the mold, it was in a thick liquid stage and was hot enough to be somewhat wiped away with a towel, so that I did. I was able to wiped off a good chunk of it before the lead become solidify.

    The next step involved the use of a heavy duty pot scrubber (not metal) and hot dish soap water. Off to town I went.

    Here is the result:





    What is that brownish stuff inside the right cavity?

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check