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Thread: Aluminum Compensator, Lead Removal?

  1. #1
    Boolit Buddy
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    Aluminum Compensator, Lead Removal?

    While scraping the lead out of my Bobby Carver Custom aluminum compensator on my glock -- i thought "hey... my molds are aluminum..."

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    Other than the red loctite keeping the comp in alignment on the barrel, what's keeping me from dunking the entire comp and barrel in my melt to get the lead out? Will the heat damage the barrel or comp?

    Thx,
    -Colin

  2. #2
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    Not a good idea. It seems this idea recently popped up on some other forum, by someone who didn't have a clue.
    Give your comp a good saturation of Ed's Red before shooting, and you shouldn't have much lead sticking to it. Use the formula with lanolin.

    By the way, you COULD possibly melt your comp into a blob or less.
    The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
    John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"

    Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!


  3. #3
    Boolit Master

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    you dont say what caliber ! but try useing a slow burning ball powder 296 /h110 / lil gun or surplus slow 820 with close to max loads , shoot about 5 to 10 rounds or sometimes more for severe leading and it sort of blasts most of it out .

  4. #4
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    44man's Avatar
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    Isn't it CRAZY, you can't solder a wire to aluminum but a stupid mold or a gun part will be tinned solid.

  5. #5
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    You will not melt the aluminum but you will melt the loctite that holds the compensator.

  6. #6
    Boolit Master

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    Arrendo assesories makes a comp cleaning tool , its a gougeing / scraping type tool . it works pretty well but you can only get the center part of the pb buildup out , cant allways get into the corners thats where the slow powders come into play. Ive only used it on steel comps , the aluminum comp may get damaged using the tool ?
    After getting the PB out try useing CARTERS comp spray to help slow the comp from pb build up.

  7. #7
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    My comp isn't aluminum but by using duct tape it reacts quite will with an Outers foul out. Gets every bit of it. And it won't bother the loctite. Just another idea.
    Paul G.
    Once I was young, now I am old and in between went by way to fast.

    The end move in politics is always to pick up a gun.
    -- R. Buckminster Fuller

  8. #8
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    I tried something new this past weekend at the match that worked VERY well.

    Before every stage, I sprayed some One Shot case lube into the comp from above. Even with my minor (131pf, power pistol) loads, the entire comp was nearly clean by the end of the day. Only the third baffle area still has some lead in it, and I'm guessing that's just because the muzzle blast doesn't make it that far down with minor loads.

    I'm definitely using spray case lube from now on. This worked VERY well.

  9. #9
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    Can you put bullplate sprue plate lube on the compensator before shooting? I wonder if it would help prevent lead from sticking.

    I don't have any compensated guns so I can't test it myself.

    John

  10. #10
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    Not a bad idea either, but I don't have any of that either. I just happened to have put the wrong can in my range bag.

    Necessity is the mother of invention, but fortuity is the much younger, hotter step-mother.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check