Reloading EverythingRepackboxRotoMetals2MidSouth Shooters Supply
Titan ReloadingWidenersLee PrecisionInline Fabrication
Load Data
Page 4 of 27 FirstFirst 1234567891011121314 ... LastLast
Results 61 to 80 of 529

Thread: Share Your Tip Of The Day

  1. #61
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Posts
    231
    Quote Originally Posted by badbobgerman View Post
    load 50 cases with powder at a time and use a flashlight to see inside every case to make sure each powder level is visually the same before seating boolits / bullets ... it has saved me from double charges and missed cases , on my single stage press
    alternative:

    bullet gets seated directly after powder is put in, which results in never having a case with powder on the loading tray: they are either empty and primed, or with a bullet seated.

  2. #62
    Boolit Master

    skeet1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Enid, OK
    Posts
    1,214
    When fluxing with saw dust, when it starts to smoke on top of the melt, light the saw dust with a grill lighter with a long extention just like you used to do when using bullet lube for flux. This will eliminate most of the smoke. When the flame goes out you can stir in the carbon ash as normal. This has worked very well for me.

    Ken

  3. #63
    Boolit Grand Master
    white eagle's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    718 miles E. of Wall Drug
    Posts
    6,157
    look both ways before you cross the street
    Hit em'hard
    hit em'often

  4. #64
    Banned
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Denmark
    Posts
    1,376
    Never fry bacon without a shirt on

  5. #65
    Banned

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Oakland County Michigan
    Posts
    1,026
    Please stay on topic.

  6. #66
    Boolit Master badbob454's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Nevada
    Posts
    1,589
    Quote Originally Posted by firefly1957 View Post
    ONLY one powder on the bench at a time.
    also ... mark your powder if you put it in a seperate tub , for lee powderdipping .and always put it back after casting, in the appropriate container .this will avoid powder mixups

  7. #67
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    ohio
    Posts
    13

    Tumble lube bottle


    Mixed up some Alox & Jhonson paste wax for tumble lube but can't see in those little bottles how much is left, so got a glass soap dispenser with the plunger on top and pored in the mix with a little extra mineral spirits to keep it liquid and just squirt the top a few times when needed and take maybe a extra day to dry after tumble.
    G. Poing NE Ohio - Damn rain!

  8. #68
    Boolit Mold
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Posts
    2
    For those of you that use RED DOT. Use PROMO it is cheaper and has the same burn rate as RED DOT

  9. #69
    Moderator Emeritus/Boolit Master in Heavens Range
    Molly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South Charleston, WV
    Posts
    1,127
    When you're done sizing and lubing, leave a bullet all the way down. Stops lube from weeping out from residual pressure. Best way I know. Even reversing the ratchet a few turns won't always prevent weeping and a mess. Leaving a bullet down forms a perfect seal.
    Regards,

    Molly

    "The remedy for evil men is not the abrogation of the rights of law abiding citizens. The remedy for evil men is the gallows." Thomas Jefferson

  10. #70
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    At my loading bench
    Posts
    654
    Rick's tips:

    1. Have a well-lit loading bench.
    2. Keep your bench clean.
    3. Do not cast or reload with distractions.
    4. Do not cast or reload when you are tired.
    5. Check the charge weight twice. Preferrably in two different manuals.
    6. Write everything down.
    7. Wear safety glasses when seating primers.
    8. Wear a full-face shield when casting.
    9. Cast bullets with good ventilation.
    10. Wash your hands after handling lead. Then, wash them again. I use the mechanics' soap with the pumice in it, works well. The bottle also has a brush for cleaning under your fingernails.

  11. #71
    Longwood
    Guest

    I now know what it means

    Don't buy used molds off of ebay unless you know how to fix someones MESS.
    I now know what they mean when they say "May show signs of cosmetic wear".

  12. #72
    Boolit Master justingrosche's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Auburn, Wa.
    Posts
    520
    If you use Gorilla glue to re-attach your mold handles back on, only use a very little bit. It expands. A lot. I almost glued a set of Lee handles permanently to my bench.
    Not my most brilliant moment.

  13. #73
    Banned

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Oakland County Michigan
    Posts
    1,026
    lol, epoxy works well for that.

    If you remove the little nail in the mold handles at that time, it won't get hot and burn you anymore.

  14. #74
    Boolit Master
    Suo Gan's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Middle of the Crook
    Posts
    1,266
    When swaping or putting a pair of handles on your mold, its best to do it over a counter so I does not fall on the concrete floor, doh!

    An old omelette maker makes an excellent mold for rendered lead.

    A goldenrod works good for keeping condensation out of the mold cabinet.

    Lable your ingots with their content, you will eventually forget.

    Get a light set of safety glasses so that you will be more tempted to use them. Are you really wearing a full face mask? Really? Really, really? Color me careless then.

    Use a router speed control unit on your lube heater.

    RTV on those broken or loose mold handles.

    Filing cabinets make for much needed drawer space in the garage. This makes dandy storage for your lava collecting suit when not casting, lol.

    Save your pennies for a year and GET that hardness tester.

    If you put more money into a hobby than it returns, keep up the good work!
    Last edited by Suo Gan; 05-07-2011 at 03:24 AM.
    Lotta people die in bed: Dangerous place to be!

  15. #75
    Banned

    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Oakland County Michigan
    Posts
    1,026
    slightly OT, but the file cabinets reminded me.

    Use file cabinet and file folders to organize and sort your sandpaper.

  16. #76
    Boolit Master gew98's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Rural KY
    Posts
    807
    Quote Originally Posted by Suo Gan View Post

    If you put more money into a hobby than it returns, keep up the good work!
    Man... that hit home !.

  17. #77
    Moderator Emeritus


    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SW Montana
    Posts
    12,450
    While using my Lee turret press I had too many necks split while belling them. I was working with old 45 acp brass. At the cost of primers today 1 out of 100 is too many. I went to priming after belling rather than after de-priming and sizing.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  18. #78
    Banned


    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    29˚68’27”N, 99˚12’07”W
    Posts
    14,662
    MTG, if you use the aforementioned full-face shield you should have no problem gently decapping those good live ones and reusing them. I do it frequently when I have faux pas on the progressives.

    Gear

  19. #79
    Moderator Emeritus


    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    SW Montana
    Posts
    12,450
    Gear I can't keep a face shield clean enough to see through for 5 minutes. Steam over or a few hours in the shop and they are too scratched to view through. I'll have to try again.
    [The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze

  20. #80
    Moderator Emeritus/Boolit Master in Heavens Range
    Molly's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    South Charleston, WV
    Posts
    1,127
    When you get a supply of misc lead & wheelweights that is too large to melt into one batch, heres how you can still have a perfectly uniform alloy over the entire supply of lead.

    Best to do this outdoors. Melt enough to fill your pot, fluxing and cleaning off tire clips as you go. Also remove any wheelweight that doesn't have a clip (stick-on's) or doesn't want to melt into the rest easily (probably zinc). When the pot is full, pour it off into ingots of whatever size you find convenient, and get started on another pot. While the next pot is melting, take a hammer and punch, and put a prominent punch mark on every ingot you just cast.

    Then put two punch marks on the next set of ingots, three punch marks on the next set of ingots, and so on.

    When you're ready to cast bullets, put one ingot in the pot from each set. IE, an ingot with one punch mark, an ingot with two punch marks, an ingot with three punch marks, and so on. This will let you keep a uniform alloy composition over a very large volume of castings.

    If you're smart and have a computer (that's ALL of us!) and have a small weight scale (if you don't, GET one!), you can weigh what's going into the current batch and keep a record of what is in it. For example;

    The batch with one, two and three punch marks are all unmodified clip-on wheelweights.
    The four punch batch has 2.75 pounds of linotype from Sam, and 7.25 pounds of clip-on wheelweights.
    The five punch batch is 6 pounds of sheet lead and four pounds of linotype ... (And so on.)

    You will find this record very valuable for calculating the composition of your alloy, or identifying batches for special use.
    Last edited by Molly; 05-16-2011 at 12:35 PM.
    Regards,

    Molly

    "The remedy for evil men is not the abrogation of the rights of law abiding citizens. The remedy for evil men is the gallows." Thomas Jefferson

Page 4 of 27 FirstFirst 1234567891011121314 ... LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check