is a brooks/PJ mold needed if only using wheelweights?

[CodyM]

Well this is my first post here. I've purchased all my casting equipment and hope to start this weekend for my Navy Arms 1874 Sharps Quigley model with a Parts Unknown tang sight and Lyman Glove front sight. I got a cheapie Lee .458 3r mold for my rifle so I can learn the basics of casting. I see myself sticking with wheelweights for a long time. If that is the case, when I decide to buy my "serious mold" would it be pointless to puchase a Brooks/Paul Jones mold or would it still be worth it even with shooting wheelweights? If I didn't get one of these good ones (leaning towards a Brooks Creedmore) I'm thinking I like the Lyman 457125. I don't want to buy more than 1 good mold for this rifle if I can help it and I would prefer to do this once and do it right. I might do a little hunting with this load for big game here in Colorado but mostly it will be for target work. What do you guys think?
cody
central Colorado

[EDK]

Do some reading over at shilohrifle.com/forums and Mike Venturino's book and older magazine articles. Most of the black powder shooters use 20/1 or 30/1 lead/tin alloy for their boolits. Wheel weights are too hard and have antimony, etc in them,

I have a starter LYMAN for my 50/90, followed by a custom BROOKS that I've used at Quigley, a KALYNUIK paper patch I haven't done much with, and a used BACO I have yet to use. Lots of luck buying one mould...buy the LYMANS or watch eBay and various forums for used moulds. 45s are the most common caliber, so there are plenty of good used moulds available...lots of not so good ones too!

[ss40_70]

i think your going to get a lot of differant answers concerning both the wheel weight and that lee 500 3r mold , as far as wheel weights go a bunch of people have good luck with them and as many dont , i think if they are a bit larger than groove dia ( 001 - 002 big ) they will work better as you wont be dependant on obturation to seal things up , now that lee mold a fellow i shoot with uses that mold and that boolit does shoot pretty good out to about 400 yds past that and you might as well throw rocks , but some guys have learned how to make it shoot , my opinion dont count for much but ww and the lee mold will get you started shooting while you save some scratch , good molds and store bought alloy are expensive not to mention powder primers and everything else youll be finding you just have to have ....... one thing ive noticed about the bpcr crowd is while they are mostly darn good fellows they sometimes forget that money can be a issue to someone just starting out

[Don McDowell]

The wheelweights may or may not work for you, but if you got a good supply of them then by all means use them. Might want to get ahold of some pure lead to cut the wheelweights with a bit, if you find the antimony and tin content to be more than your rifle will digest.
That Lee mould is fine for a couple hundred yards, but just like 4070 said, you get into a wind and all bets are off even at close range.
Brooks moulds are great, but you can get by just fine and there's been a gawdawful lot of matches won with bullets from Lyman Rcbs and Saeco moulds.
I like the Lyman postel, the Rcbs 82084 and the Saeco 645 bullets.
This bpcr doesn't have to cost a small fortune to be competitive.
By the way if it's not to far of a drive for you there's a bpcr shoot in Alliance Ne. on mothers day weekend. Zip on over there and shoot with us, there'll be plenty of folks that'll be glad to help you along.

[NickSS]

I started out with a Lyman 457124 mold that I still use for short range matches something like 40 years later and mostly have shot WW for most of that time. As for accuracy It works quite well out to about 400 yards and them looses out to heavier bullets. I have yet to buy an expensive mold but for long range BPCR I have found that a 30 to 1 alloy works best for me but the bullet I use is a 535 gr SACO bullet that works really well for me and shoots as good as I can shoot periode. It has worked so well during the 20 years that I have been using it that I have not even thought about a new mold.

[RMulhern]

Lyman moulds look like they've been cut with a turning plow!! RUFF RUFF!!

[montana_charlie]

when I decide to buy my "serious mold" would it be pointless to puchase a Brooks/Paul Jones mold or would it still be worth it even with shooting wheelweights?

Choosing a bullet design means having 'the job' of the bullet decided upon beforehand.
If you will need the most effective hunting bullet, there are flat-nosed choices.
If you want a plinker, there are lightweights than can be made to shoot reasonably well.
If it is (mainly) accuracy that you will be chasing, a bullet which fits the rifle best is usually the final choice. I say 'final' because people often go through two or more designs, looking for that 'good fit'.

Since you have a "Navy Arms 1874 Sharps Quigley model" you can save yourself some time and trouble by choosing the Paul Jones 45021. All else being equal, it is THE bullet which is most likely to be your rifle's favorite.

Whether the alloy used is 'cheap' or carefully made, a well-fitted bullet shoots best. But, only testing can determine if a 'cheap' alloy is suitable for the rifle.

CM

[kokomokid]

Lyman moulds look like they've been cut with a turning plow!! RUFF RUFF!!

If you had a lyman that drops a round but sometimes sticky bullet, what would you try on it to slick it up? Thinking of polishing with bon ami or brunishing with moly.

[Aaron]

Cody,

Where are you in Colorado?

[CodyM]

Canon City/Florence area.

[Cimarron Red]

Cody,

There's a two-day BPCR silhouette shoot at the NRA Whittington Center near Raton, New Mexico, over Mother's Day weekend as well. My shooting buddy and I will be going. Would be about a two hour drive for you. BTW, I'm just down the road in Pueblo West.

[Aaron]

Cody

I am in Colorado Springs. Just in Florence last weekend and checked out the little gunshop down there.

Where are you guys shooting BPCR besides Raton?

Aaron

[Cimarron Red]

Aaron,

The Golden Gun Club east of Denver shoots BPCR silhouettes the first Saturday of the month year around, weather permitting. Here's a link to the club's web site:

http://www.goldengunclub.com/

[Aaron]

Thanks Cimarron Red, this is something I want to try and I already have all the guns for it.

Aaron

[Lead pot]

Codym

The bullet mould is just important as a good rifle. If you get a bullet mould that is out of round and just plain ugly you will get ugly groups down range and you will get discouraged with the rifle and it will sit in the closet not getting used.
For the money invested you will get a very good mould for your rifle here. Just pick the type you feel you like and dont look back.
Dont skimp on a mould after spending a bunch of money for a rifle. That is like spending a bunch of money for a Arnold or Cooper rifle and putting a $35.scope on it.

http://www.buffaloarms.com/browse.cf...tid=311&step=2