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Thread: My homemade black powder

  1. #3741
    Boolit Bub
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    I just spent the last several weeks reading this whole thread and what a journey! I have read threads that go for a long time before and I like the journey through time. Do you realize that this thread is over 10 years old and still going!!!???!!! Since I have started reading, I have made black powder, loaded it in 38 special, and harvested meat with it. It was very satisfying.

    I started this with the wild hair of "I wonder if I could put black powder in .45acp and shoot it when the zombies come?" One search lead to another and I saw that it was going to definitely be possible to make black powder. More searches lead me to the fireworks sites and, somehow, I ended up here. Reading this has saved me YEARS of what would have been failed experiments of trying to reinvent the wheel and I NEVER would have settled on a process that's so simple and works so well.

    The first thing I tried was cooking some pine shavings in a cast iron pot on a turkey fryer. I have been buying my pine shavings from Wally World. They are cheap, consistent, and they work. After several hours, and a whole tank of propane, I had some charcoal that I thought was good. Then I found out about the TLUD method using a paint can. For a couple dollars worth of supplies, I thought I would give it a shot. Now I don't plan on doing anything different! For less time than what it takes to drink a can of b̶e̶e̶r̶ soda, I have good charcoal and it was it's own fuel. There may be higher-quality ways to do it, but none will give the bang for the buck of TLUD - especially if you are not doing it for competition. And the TLUD charcoal was WAY faster than the cooked.

    I just use the Spectracide stump compound. There are cheaper sources out there, but I was able to drive to the Big Box Store to pick this up and one bottle has made more than enough powder to load 100 rounds of ammo. I did order the sulfur from eBay. It was cheap, easy, pure, and I have enough for probably a lifetime.

    I have the Harbor Freight ball mill. I got the double one because it wasn't that much more and I'm glad I did. I hear stories about people not having enough power in the single version to turn a bunch of lead media. I am using a bunch of lead fishing weights from Wally World, of various sizes, and I also took some cutters and cut the ends off of some of my longer wheel weights to add to the mix. I had seen somewhere else that 100gm of powder is a good size batch to mix in one of these tumblers. The guy said he gets good greenmeal in about an hour with this setup and any more takes exponentially more time. It sounded good to me and that's the size batch I have been doing. I usually just put it in while I'm doing something else and I've never run it too short of a time. It always comes out perfect.

    My original intentions were to granulate using a binder. That's one of the things that this thread has saved me from. After seeing what Fly was doing with the puck die, and me having the 12 ton press already, I decided to give that a go. I had a piece of 1" aluminum pipe and some aluminum stock, so I made myself a trial set. I just went by "that looks about right" for my first try and it worked out. The first thing I did was to turn the inside of the pipe so I would have a smooth, uniform surface. Then I turned some stock down to make a piston somewhere .003 - .005 smaller than my bore in the sleeves. I ended up with a 1" sleeve, an 1/4" sleeve, a 1" piston, and two 1/4" pistons. The first thing I do is put a 1/4" piston in the bottom of the 1" sleeve. That gives me a "container" that's 3/4" deep on the inside x 1" in diameter. I'll fill that near the top with greenmeal and put my 1" piston on top of that. Then I pick all three pieces up, brush off any excess powder, and slide the sleeve up about 1/8" over the big piston. Now I have a piston - sleeve - piston "assembly" that has my powder in the middle and I can carry it anywhere I want to. That setup goes in the press and gets squished into the first puck for a few seconds. I'll push that puck into the small sleeve (1/4" sleeve) and set everything up to make a second puck. This time, I put my first puck and sleeve under the second one and press both at the same time. My second sandwich is 1/4" piston - first puck inside of a 1/4" sleeve - 1/4" piston - second puck inside of the 1" sleeve - 1" piston. That setup will sit under pressure while I do something else for a few minutes. Then I'll press out the pucks and start over again. I use a Harbor Freight bearing puller to push out the pucks in the press. I press my pucks dry and have never used any water.

    After I have a batch of pucks, I break them up with a tile nibbler. That was a GENIUS idea! They were nearly IMPOSSIBLE to bust up any other way. Those go into a grain mill for beer brewing. The first time through, I set the gap as large as I can get it. The second time through, I set it about 1/2 way, then the third time gets a pretty close gap. Each grinding gets poured into my sifting screens. I use a 20 mesh screen and a 30 mesh screen. At first, I couldn't get a 20 mesh screen to match my 30 mesh screen, then I noticed that the Walmart kitchen sieve is a 20 mesh screen. Everything that sits on the 20 mesh gets reground. Everything that sits on the 30 gets saved as 3F and everything that passes the 30 gets reused as fines. My fines go right back into the dies to get pressed again. I don't regrind in the ball mill because it got mixed the first time - pressing it didn't un-mix it! The once-pressed fines sure do pour into the dies a LOT easier, too. Each grinding session gives me about 50% 3F and 50% fines.

    I've since made a 2" set of dies to match what I did with the 1" set. My powder comes out about 12% lighter than GOEX 3F which seems to match what most everyone else is getting. It shoots just fine in my 38 special with a 4" barrel. I chrono'd them at around 500 fps with an ES of about 50 - fast and accurate enough to put meat in the freezer. And the gun cleans RIGHT up with Murphy's oil soap and a toothbrush. In fact, if I weren't doing it myself, I would think someone was messing with me. It's that easy to clean.

    Having been down this journey, I would say to just make some powder. It's going to work - even bad powder will work - and it is fun. Then try to get better. The Walmart pine bedding is cheap and, again, it works. The hardware store Spectracide works. And Sulfur is easy to get online. Harbor Freight has a cheap scale. You will need a press if you want to corn your powder. A vice won't work (I have a big vice and I tried just for fun). But you can granulate powder if you aren't trying to get it in a cartridge. And it's fun making firecrackers with granulated powder. And you will giggle the first time you light off a teaspoon full with a BBQ lighter. And you'll probably giggle the second time, too.

  2. #3742
    Boolit Master
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    Paramax55,,, YEP!

  3. #3743
    Boolit Master
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    Swamp, thanks for the prill grinding info. As soon as I use the last of my other up, I'll trying some of it out.

  4. #3744
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighUintas View Post
    Thanks for the link. I believe I've looked at their site before, but decided not to order there because the powdered 10lb only says greenhouse grade and doesn't have any analysis document or brand/source. They are a touch cheaper than Duda, I think.
    greenhouse grade works fine - its crystal (so its easily soluble for the injection equipment) just as good as prilled (or better) and easier to use

    prilled is for ground application where they want a bit slower release, you'd have to think they use some kind of binder to get it so hard - but that would only be a tiny percent

    I have worked with soluble fertilisers a good deal in my other hobby making foliar fertilisers for broadacre cropping - greenhouse grade has always been my go to as the best product (commercially priced) - the best quality stuff comes out of Norway or Israel - east asian product runs a poor second - want better than greenhouse grade? go to lab reagent stuff (technical grade) but get your wallet out first (not worth the extra IMHO)

  5. #3745
    Boolit Master
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    My friend that collects wood for me informed me that he has a lot of Tree of Heaven for me. The way it sounds, I should get at least a 5 gal pail of charcoal from it. That should be a lifetime supply with what I already have.

    swamp
    There is no problem so great, that it cannot be solved by the proper application of high explosives.

  6. #3746
    Boolit Buddy
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    Well I tumbled my media last night to smooth the edges of the cut copper pipe and test the tumbling.... The force with which it sounds like they're pounding inside sounds like it ought to do fine! I'll just Mill for 12-18 hrs to make sure it goes love ng enough. Then when I get a chrono I can use with my gun I'll test the milling time.

    I dumped the stump remover out and picked out all the dark buts I could find. I'll call it good to go.

    When I run out of it I'll get some of that seedranch kno3. Thanks DB and IJ!

  7. #3747
    Boolit Buddy
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    Wow, some great input in the last few weeks!
    What screens do people use in their decks?

    I have lid, 10, 20, 40, 60, 100 and catcher for fines in 300mm steel-frame sieves from China (alibaba.com). Also a kitchen sieve that seems to be about 15 mesh.

    40-100 is right for 4F, OK.
    This is my first ever exposure to 4F and someone told me that the serious pistol (target) shooters are not using anything else. I get a nice 650 fps with about 20gn from my Charles Moore .45 percussion pistol. Good groups, clean burn.

    20 to 50 mesh is 3F.
    20 to 45 is 3P (WANO sizing).
    I am using 20 - 40 mesh and calling it 3F. Works very well, clean burning and flows in measure. I have long used 3P for pistol and 50m matches in my .50 cal CVA and .54 Mortimer flint rifle.

    Now I presume I am going to want 2F.
    2F is 16-30 mesh
    WANO 2P is 18-30 mesh.
    Kitchen sieve ~15 to 40 mesh looks too wide a range so I separated it and ground the +20mesh. 15 to 20 looks like 1F not 2F. Not cool.

    I am considering just taking the 15-20 fraction and adding back 25% of 20-40 and trying that for 2F loads. What do you think?

    Actually, shaking the 20 mesh sieve on a shallow slope might sort the product further for size? I might be able to weight the selection to coarser without buying a 30 mesh.

    As for 1F - I just took my stock of Goex 1F, ground and sieved that into 3F, 4F and fines for adding to the pucks. I had been decking 21gn 3P and 55gn 1F in the Parker Hale 1858, to spin out my 2F but didn't like it much. I found a tightening from fouling about 2/3 up my .577 barrel, whereas 2F would be fouled about 6" up.

    What screens do others use, and how do you like your products?
    Last edited by ChrisPer; 05-06-2021 at 08:58 PM.

  8. #3748
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paramax55 View Post
    I just spe.

    Heck yea!! So are you saying you for your 45acp to work with black powder?

    I told my brother yesterday that I was working on making some and he said he needed to do that for his 45. I told him I didn't think it would function....

  9. #3749
    Boolit Bub
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    I haven't done the 45 yet. I have the boolits cast, powder coated, and lubed with SPG, but I haven't loaded them yet. It will shoot and the rounds will be slow, but I don't know if the gun will cycle. Maybe not - you might have to rack it by hand. I do know it will be dirty and you will need to clean the gun afterwards. But a Glock will fit in a bucket a lot easier than a wheel gun and, with the Murphy's, it should be a piece of cake.

    I read a post somewhere about a guy that loaded 45 with BP and went to the BP range. Everyone got upset when he pulled out a Glock and then shut up when the rounds started going off. Hicock45 has a video of BP in a 45acp Glock.

  10. #3750
    Boolit Bub
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    I also came up with an amazingly simple and very effective way to bust up pucks today. I have 2" puck, so I went to the hardware sore and bought a 2" PVC pipe cap. A 1 1/2" cap fights well inside of that, so I got one of those to match. A PVC pipe cap is curved inside and also on the outside. A puck is flat and brittle. I put the puck inside of the 2" cap, then put the smaller cap inside of that. I put the whole deal in the press and cranked down. It busted the puck up with NO effort. Then I shook it up a little and cranked again. after 3-4 times, the puck bits were perfect for grinding!

  11. #3751
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paramax55 View Post
    I also came up with an amazingly simple and very effective way to bust up pucks today. I have 2" puck, so I went to the hardware sore and bought a 2" PVC pipe cap. A 1 1/2" cap fights well inside of that, so I got one of those to match. A PVC pipe cap is curved inside and also on the outside. A puck is flat and brittle. I put the puck inside of the 2" cap, then put the smaller cap inside of that. I put the whole deal in the press and cranked down. It busted the puck up with NO effort. Then I shook it up a little and cranked again. after 3-4 times, the puck bits were perfect for grinding!
    Great idea!! Is the fit good enough that it could be used as a puck press? I realize the PVC ones aren't perfect, but it sounds like they work ok if you reinforce the outer sleeve.

    Keep track of your grades and keep me updated! I had planned on going with tile nippers and a ceramic coffee grinder. Best I've heard of, if I remember correctly, is about 1/3 ff, 1/3 ff, 1/3 fff

  12. #3752
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paramax55 View Post
    I also came up with an amazingly simple and very effective way to bust up pucks today. I have 2" puck, so I went to the hardware sore and bought a 2" PVC pipe cap. A 1 1/2" cap fights well inside of that, so I got one of those to match. A PVC pipe cap is curved inside and also on the outside. A puck is flat and brittle. I put the puck inside of the 2" cap, then put the smaller cap inside of that. I put the whole deal in the press and cranked down. It busted the puck up with NO effort. Then I shook it up a little and cranked again. after 3-4 times, the puck bits were perfect for grinding!
    That sounds like a really good idea! I may check that one out, very soon! Did you try screening and recycling through the press? It sounds like it might cut a lot of grinding out, possibly.

  13. #3753
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    Quote Originally Posted by indian joe View Post
    greenhouse grade works fine - its crystal (so its easily soluble for the injection equipment) just as good as prilled (or better) and easier to use

    prilled is for ground application where they want a bit slower release, you'd have to think they use some kind of binder to get it so hard - but that would only be a tiny percent

    I have worked with soluble fertilisers a good deal in my other hobby making foliar fertilisers for broadacre cropping - greenhouse grade has always been my go to as the best product (commercially priced) - the best quality stuff comes out of Norway or Israel - east asian product runs a poor second - want better than greenhouse grade? go to lab reagent stuff (technical grade) but get your wallet out first (not worth the extra IMHO)
    I agree with Joe 100%. Greenhouse grade does work fine. I bought a chronograph, in the last couple of months and proved it, for myself.
    Last edited by DoubleBuck; 05-08-2021 at 12:56 AM.

  14. #3754
    Boolit Bub
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    The fit isn't really good enough for a puck die set. It flexes some under a good ammount of pressure, too. You could possibly cut out some of the grinding, but I just grind for one grade - 3F. Anything bigger goes through again and anything smaller gets repressed. I get about 50/50 - fines/3F. This is just going ti replace the tile nipper for me.

  15. #3755
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    I just tumbled my.media for the second 24-hour round to knock off any loose lead and sharp copper corners. The amount of stuff that I dumped out the first time had me worried that way too much of my powder would end up being metal and or rubber from the drum. So, I decided to do it another round to see if the amount decreased. I think it probably has, but I'll have to take a closer look when I get around to cleaning it out. If it's the same, then my media is eating up the rubber drum, which isn't good and I'll have to look into getting one of the harbor freight tumblers.

    When I cleaned it out the first time though, the drum nor the cap looked damaged, so I think that it was just the overflowed lead, and lead dribbles that made up the bulk of the junk in there.

    Getting closer to being able to make some powder!

    I may have to make some screened first though, because I don't have a shop press and I don't want to have to follow through on working on the suspension on my vehicle if I use that as the reason to buy a shop press haha

  16. #3756
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    Quote "I may have to make some screened first though, because I don't have a shop press and I don't want to have to follow through on working on the suspension on my vehicle if I use that as the reason to buy a shop press haha"

    OMG! THAT'S FUNNY! And I can definitely identify. Ball joints or struts are a "bich"!!

    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  17. #3757
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighUintas View Post
    I just tumbled my.media for the second 24-hour round to knock off any loose lead and sharp copper corners. The amount of stuff that I dumped out the first time had me worried that way too much of my powder would end up being metal and or rubber from the drum. So, I decided to do it another round to see if the amount decreased. I think it probably has, but I'll have to take a closer look when I get around to cleaning it out. If it's the same, then my media is eating up the rubber drum, which isn't good and I'll have to look into getting one of the harbor freight tumblers.

    When I cleaned it out the first time though, the drum nor the cap looked damaged, so I think that it was just the overflowed lead, and lead dribbles that made up the bulk of the junk in there.

    Getting closer to being able to make some powder!

    I may have to make some screened first though, because I don't have a shop press and I don't want to have to follow through on working on the suspension on my vehicle if I use that as the reason to buy a shop press haha
    Just curious. Is that a Thumblers Tumbler you're using??

    By the way everyone. Amazon has a nice Frankford Arsenal tumbler on sale for 75 bucks. That's a very good deal. My brass supplier has one that he's put hundreds and hundreds of pounds of brass through, and he loves it.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Well, when I went to get the link for you guys, the price had gone up to 99$. Still a good deal compared to any other heavy duty tumbler on the market...

    I'm really glad I grabbed one for 75$. I didn't need it, but couldn't resist, and it will come in handy. I really like it. Simple yet very effective. Nice small footprint for shop space as well.

    EDIT: They still have the 220 volt version for 73$ if a person wants to go that route...

    Vettepilot
    Last edited by Vettepilot; 05-09-2021 at 04:47 PM.
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  18. #3758
    Boolit Buddy
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vettepilot View Post
    Just curious. Is that a Thumblers Tumbler you're using??

    By the way everyone. Amazon has a nice Frankford Arsenal tumbler on sale for 75 bucks. That's a very good deal. My brass supplier has one that he's put hundreds and hundreds of pounds of brass through, and he loves it.

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Well, when I went to get the link for you guys, the price had gone up to 99$. Still a good deal compared to any other heavy duty tumbler on the market...

    I'm really glad I grabbed one for 75$. I didn't need it, but couldn't resist, and it will come in handy. I really like it. Simple yet very effective. Nice small footprint for shop space as well.

    EDIT: They still have the 220 volt version for 73$ if a person wants to go that route...

    Vettepilot
    Yes it is. It's their A-R1. It's a 3lb single barrel tumbler. It's my kids that he uses for rocks, so if it's eating up the rubber I have to quit using it so I don't have to buy him another!

    At this point though, I think I'll need to buy him another one anyway because I'll bet I pounded a lot of lead into his drum that I can't get out by cleaning. It's not like he puts his polished rocks in his mouth, but still...

  19. #3759
    Boolit Master
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    Yeah, and those Thumbler jars aren't cheap. I know because I was checking them out before I made my current setup. (PVC jars with "trippers/lifters" inside--> see previous posts.)

    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  20. #3760
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    I think this one's barrel is $30 on rocktumbler.com. but still... A PVC barrel would be cheaper than $30.

    I cleaned out the barrel and my media last night. I believe all the powder and other debris is just lead. I used straight wheel weights and some of my media pieces have large domes protruding from the copper pipe because I didn't have great pouring control.

    After thinking about it, the copper is so much harder than. That lead, I'd I'm tumbling for 12 hours, I'll always end up with too much lead in my powder.

    So, I'm going to throw my media in the oven tonight and heat treat those suckers!! Then after 3-4 days, I'll tmble for 12 hours again to check for a difference. Hopefully it works

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check