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Thread: My homemade black powder

  1. #3721
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vettepilot View Post
    I don't think an electric hot plate will work. I have one that I had to modify to get it to go hot enough to heat a standard cast iron sauce/frying pan hot enough to melt wheel weights down. So I really don't think one would heat a large Dutch Oven evenly to 600 very well.

    A turkey fryer is just the ticket. I bought mine used off Craigslist for 15 bucks.

    If you can find an old water heater, you could steal the burner out of it and make a turkey fryer in less than an hour in the workshop...

    Vettepilot
    Ah I thought a hot plate heating element would get plenty hot. Good thing I didn't buy one!

    I've got two turkey fryer burners. It's just that so much of that heat/energy is wasted. I was looking at an induction hot plate at the thrift store for $20... It goes up to 575F. Just a tad too cool.

    I guess I'll keep thinking on how to make my paint can heat more evenly on the burner until I get my pressure cooker going or find a cast iron Dutch oven

  2. #3722
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    Congratulations, ChrisPer! Sounds like lots of fun. I have my own range and just shoot for pleasure, but it is a blast molding and making powder. I have a 1861 Springfield replica by Chiappa, that I have been working on, for about two years. Getting it tuned in pretty well, at 50 and 75 yards. Still sporadic at 100, but getting better. Glad you had success, with yours!

  3. #3723
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    Well done with your Chiappa, Doublebuck!

    And thanks too Vettepilot, yes its a sweet moment. I was also able to give a few others some powder to try. My 4F went well when I tested it in the pistol, but haven't shot a match yet.

    HighUintas, I collected willow deadfall branches in public parks. Used a 8l soup pot on a cast iron gas ring, enclosed in an oven of propped-together old clay roof tiles. It worked well, and then I put all the charcoal through a blade coffee mill and sieved it, until below 100 mesh.

  4. #3724
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighUintas View Post
    Ah I thought a hot plate heating element would get plenty hot. Good thing I didn't buy one!

    I've got two turkey fryer burners. It's just that so much of that heat/energy is wasted. I was looking at an induction hot plate at the thrift store for $20... It goes up to 575F. Just a tad too cool.

    I guess I'll keep thinking on how to make my paint can heat more evenly on the burner until I get my pressure cooker going or find a cast iron Dutch oven
    Well, I'm not very concerned about the lost heat using a Dutch Oven on a Turkey Fryer. It would be far cheaper than anything a person might try electrically.

    Anyway, if you have neighbors that would complain about doing it over a wood fire, I think the Turkey Fryer would be your best choice. For added efficiency, you could wrap your Dutch Oven or pressure cooker with this:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  5. #3725
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    I can't remember if Mesquite wood has been discussed and/or tested. I saw a chart somewhere in my wandering, that showed it as pretty good in burn rate, but being quite hard, I would not be surprised if it burned dirty. It probably makes good pyro coal with lots of sparks, but perhaps not so good for us. That's unfortunate if true, as we have tons of it here in Arizona.

    Anyone tried it, or remember test documentation??

    Thanks,
    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  6. #3726
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    Mesquite wood works ,but is very DIRTY.
    Bummer because I have two Mesquite trees at each of my houses.
    I have not tried any wood from my Palo Verde trees yet.
    But it is worth testing since I already have the tree.
    I should have tried the wood from my Jacaranda tree also.

  7. #3727
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    I made some Paulownia charcoal tonight!

    Put it on it's side on my propane burner on medium low, put my large stockpot over the top to act as an oven (no holes for drafting though) and took the pot off to check temp every 5-10 minutes. It got up to 600 in about 20-25 minutes and the flame died back enough to call it good at about 45 minutes. I then covered the hole with aluminum foil and did the same with the thermometer hole because the thermometer loosened up and was for the most part destroyed after getting torched by the afterburner effect for awhile. I figured that would happen using the stock pot. I'll have to put an exhaust hole on the opposite side or bottom next time if I use the pot again.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #3728
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    There it is. 191g of Paulownia charcoal. It's all fully charred and I didn't see a single bit of white/gray ash, so that's good. A lot of it has this shiny film on it with some "bubbles"? that looks sort like tar, which I think may be the creosote. You can see it in the photo with the single piece. It's only on the bark side of the wood though.

    How do you know if you've overcharred it? And does anyone know if the pith burns or if it's a portion that contributes to dirty burning? I may scrape that out before grinding this stuff.

    This will make me about 2.75lbs of BP. That's awesome.Click image for larger version. 

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  9. #3729
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    Great work on the paulownia!
    I have about 10kg of wood debarked and cut to size that I got from a workshop that uses it. Turns out it is good in water - doesn't take up water like the porosity would imply.

  10. #3730
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisPer View Post
    Great work on the paulownia!
    I have about 10kg of wood debarked and cut to size that I got from a workshop that uses it. Turns out it is good in water - doesn't take up water like the porosity would imply.
    That's interesting. What do they make from it? Something that gets wet often?

    I am pretty sure that a lot of snow skis are made from that wood.

  11. #3731
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    Does anyone know how pure the spectraside stump remover actually is? The sds says 100% but when pouring some out last night to grind it, there's definitely some other stuff in there. There were a few small dark colored flecks of unidentifiable material in it.

    I'm wondering if there would really be any performance difference between that and the Duda kno3. I'm also worried that it could be sparking material that's in there...

  12. #3732
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    Might have been some black plastic bits from the jar?

    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  13. #3733
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighUintas View Post
    Does anyone know how pure the spectraside stump remover actually is? The sds says 100% but when pouring some out last night to grind it, there's definitely some other stuff in there. There were a few small dark colored flecks of unidentifiable material in it.

    I'm wondering if there would really be any performance difference between that and the Duda kno3. I'm also worried that it could be sparking material that's in there...
    HighUintas, I have never used it, but if it has enough contamination to be concerned about, I would not go through the headache of trying to clean it. That said, KNO3 is water soluble. You could dissolve it, pour it off the 'black flecks', or skim them off the solution, depending if they sink, or float. Then, if they are not water soluble, haha, you can boil it dry and grind it up again. If they are water soluble, please forget everything I just wrote.
    Here's a link to Seed Ranch, from Florida, to their KNO3. I have bought 10 pounds from them, twice. The last I bought was about $2.40 per pound, including shipping, buying 10 pounds, a couple of years ago. I see when I went to get you the link, the price is that much, before shipping now. They used to beat Duda on price, but things may be different, now. I will vouch for their 99.8% pure powder. It is clean fluff powder.
    I have not used a bit of it, yet, but I bought a 50# bag, of "98.9 % pure" prilled KNO3 from my local farm fertilizer dealer, for less than $20. I have a farm, and have known them for years, and I actually got a #2 scoop shovel full, for ten bucks and an offer to buy beer. It looks great, just not puffy powder. It's little bb's. I figure, for the price, and availability, I'll figure out how to powder the bb's. By the way, if your wife has roses, they'll love your KNO3. Which ever way you go, good luck and here's the Seed Ranch link, if you're interested. https://www.seedranch.com/Potassium-Nitrate-s/2137.htm

  14. #3734
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    I have used the Stump Remover before and have 4 bottles left that someone gave me.
    It works good after it is ball milled before you mix it with the other chemicals , then ball mill it all together.
    I found out that the guy who gave me the 6 bottles was using it right out of the bottle and mixed by hand with everything else.
    No wonder he wasn't happy with it even in his fireworks.

  15. #3735
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    DoubleBuck,
    I use prilled and the easiest way I found to break down the prills is to run them through the same grinder I use for powder grounding.
    swamp
    There is no problem so great, that it cannot be solved by the proper application of high explosives.

  16. #3736
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    Quote Originally Posted by LAGS View Post
    I have used the Stump Remover before and have 4 bottles left that someone gave me.
    It works good after it is ball milled before you mix it with the other chemicals , then ball mill it all together.
    I found out that the guy who gave me the 6 bottles was using it right out of the bottle and mixed by hand with everything else.
    No wonder he wasn't happy with it even in his fireworks.
    How did it work out for you, lags? Any noticeable difference between that and higher quality kno3?

  17. #3737
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    Quote Originally Posted by DoubleBuck View Post
    HighUintas, I have never used it, but if it has enough contamination to be concerned about, I would not go through the headache of trying to clean it. That said, KNO3 is water soluble. You could dissolve it, pour it off the 'black flecks', or skim them off the solution, depending if they sink, or float. Then, if they are not water soluble, haha, you can boil it dry and grind it up again. If they are water soluble, please forget everything I just wrote.
    Here's a link to Seed Ranch, from Florida, to their KNO3. I have bought 10 pounds from them, twice. The last I bought was about $2.40 per pound, including shipping, buying 10 pounds, a couple of years ago. I see when I went to get you the link, the price is that much, before shipping now. They used to beat Duda on price, but things may be different, now. I will vouch for their 99.8% pure powder. It is clean fluff powder.
    I have not used a bit of it, yet, but I bought a 50# bag, of "98.9 % pure" prilled KNO3 from my local farm fertilizer dealer, for less than $20. I have a farm, and have known them for years, and I actually got a #2 scoop shovel full, for ten bucks and an offer to buy beer. It looks great, just not puffy powder. It's little bb's. I figure, for the price, and availability, I'll figure out how to powder the bb's. By the way, if your wife has roses, they'll love your KNO3. Which ever way you go, good luck and here's the Seed Ranch link, if you're interested. https://www.seedranch.com/Potassium-Nitrate-s/2137.htm
    Thanks for the link. I believe I've looked at their site before, but decided not to order there because the powdered 10lb only says greenhouse grade and doesn't have any analysis document or brand/source. They are a touch cheaper than Duda, I think.

  18. #3738
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    I put my lead/copper media in my kid's thumpers tumbler to get some of the extra lead junk knocked off the copper and counted 36 rpm. That's wayyy slower than the 65 that has been recommended all along in this thread. For those that use the cheap harbor freight tumbler, does it do the 65rpm or is it slower?

  19. #3739
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    I never measured the rpm's of my Harbor Freight tumbler, but "Maillemaker" has been using his to make BP with great success. Check out his posts over the last several pages.

    Vettepilot
    "Those who sacrifice freedom for security, have neither."
    Benjamin Franklin. (A very wise man!)

  20. #3740
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    Quote Originally Posted by HighUintas View Post
    I put my lead/copper media in my kid's thumpers tumbler to get some of the extra lead junk knocked off the copper and counted 36 rpm. That's wayyy slower than the 65 that has been recommended all along in this thread. For those that use the cheap harbor freight tumbler, does it do the 65rpm or is it slower?
    46 RPM's is what I counted on mine. It works very well for me. I use 69 caliber lead balls in it. But, the max weight of powder I have made in it is one pound. I normally do about 1/2 pound in each jar and just do them one at a time. I have experimented quite a bit with it, and if my three ingredients are like face powder, when I put them in the tumbler, four hours seems to work great. I have went as long as 12 hours, but could tell no difference, in burn rates, or strength. If you do want more RPM's out of one, you can put clear tubing over the drive rollers and increase their diameter, turning the jars faster. It also wears belts out substantially faster.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check