My homemade black powder

[PatMarlin]

He have all of his fingers? ...

[EOD3]

The kind of wood indicates what kind of charcoal is used. By observation thus far, if the wood burns in a fireplace real good, like oak, hickory, mesquite, etc., then it should NOT be used to make a quality gunpowder. Maple is a very poor fireplace wood, at least it is around here, and so would be a candidate here. I am sure there are others, but which ones? Like CS said, the time of tree harvest would be paramount as well. Perhaps that is because of the required moisture content of the wood before frying, i.e., a production efficiency problem. ... felix

More or less sap? More or less moisture?

[Charlie Sometimes]

More or less sap? More or less moisture?

That would mean more or less "tar" once the moisture is removed, which by the way, leaves during "cooking" in the retort. What is left would be what "makes" the quality of the charcoal and hence the BP.

Hardwoods are prefered for firewood (Oak, Hickory, Beech, etc.), softer deciduous woods (Poplar, Sycamore, etc.) are favored for fire starting and early season warmth. Some species are in between- Apple, Maple, Ironwood, etc. Evergreens are avoided. (All depends on where you live.) Creosote build up in a chimney can be a problem. Could that component be a factor?

[T-Bird]

Just finished my 1st batch. followed the procedure as posted, except I added 3gr homemade "dextrin" I made from cornstarch. I was going to add 2gr, but the last gram slipped- oh well. Took about 45 min start to finish. Simple as falling off a log. I will report tomorrow as to whether it went POOF or not. If it goes POOF, I'll take some to the range. I can't wait to light the residue lined coffee filters! Shoot Straight, T-Bird

[T-Bird]

shot my powder yesterday, basically "pooted"the ball out of my T/C hawken 50 cal. When dry, my powder is very fluffy. I may have used a larger mesh strainer than atom, I can't tell. The addition of the cornstarch "dextrin" may have messed it up-I don't know. I think I will try to mush it up some to make it finer grained, and try again. I used Big Green Egg brand lump charcoal ground to baby powder like consistancy together with Rattlesnake brand sulfur (90%) and the dextrin with a mortar/ pestal. This I added to the hot kno3 solution. It precipitated when it cooled, looked just like the picture. The only thing I added different was the dextrin but I used the sulfur that was only 90% because it was all I could find here. T-Bird

[zxcvbob]

I've had no problem with 90% sulfur. Your pharmacist might be able to get the 99% for you; it has several medicinal uses. What kind of KNO3 are you using? Stump remover is adequate, barely.

[T-Bird]

Stump remover-Green light brand. What do you think of the "dextrin". T-Bird

[T-Bird]

Here's how fluffy my powder is. A 45colt case of it weighs 18grains. A 45 colt case of ff weighs 40gr. T-Bird

[Charlie Sometimes]

I think I read and understood the dexetrin would slow the burn rate. I would not experiment with that untill I got a consistent burn. That IS fluffy, though. That wichita buggy whip link is fuill of good info! THANKS, Fly!

I was reading a couple of different articles the other day about making hominy and lye soap, and thought about this project. They showed various ways of producing the lye or lye solution required for processing corn or lard into hominy or soap.

Wood ash can be use to make a lye solution, which. I think, is basically Potasium Hydroxide, instead of Sodium Hydroxide. County Extension Agents will recommend that you put wood ash (only from certain types of wood- not the acidic kinds) on your garden to increase the K2O content, etc.

I haven't followed up much further than this yet in reference to past reading on BP processing in the old days, but it strikes me that this could be a very easy source for the KNO2. I know they rendered it from bat guano in caves, and maybe from a few other manure piles around the farm.

Which would make a better natural source, and would the wood ash produce the proper component for BP?

I've got some poplar trees to cut soon, and I am thinking of rendering the ash for making some hominy, a little soap, and BP if it will work for that.

[Fly]

T-Bird the info is right there to the link I posted.Buddy it is not hard at all.My powder kicks
Goex.I have been testing this stuff a long time.I have posted in the past on how I make mine.

But the link to Dannys site should tell you anything you need to know.You can send me a PM if you like & I will help you any way I can.

Fly

[atom73]

T-Bird,
I am sorry that your powder wasnt more energetic. I wasnt there when you made it so I really cant say what I think the reason is. I know there has been a lot of talk on this thread about charcoal, all I can say is that I make mine from willow, mine works great when made from willow. I havent tried any other woods because I really like how mine shoots. The sulfur that I get is PURE, I get it from scienceforyou.net (I also get my KNO3 there too) and have not tried any others types of sulfur. If I were to make a suggestion I would say that in order to repeat results in any experiment, stick to the reported experimental materials and methods exactly and then try adjusting components. I really wish you had different results, I sure enjoy shooting mine and think once some others here start making and shooting their own we will really be able to get some good recipes down. I still havent made mine with dextrin yet, next batch I will but I have to shoot up what I have now! Nice problem to have.
Lots of smoke...
Mike

[Fly]

Atom I hope you don't think I,m trying to Hi Jack your thread.The site I posted on the thread
has a place in making BP as you did also.It is up to anyone as to how they want to make it.
Both way's work if done right.

If there are some here that really want to make there own, it's there choice on how they get there.

I learned a long time ago working in research & develoment that many heads are better than
one.If you look at Dannys site the charcoal he test come from all over the world.He has spent
years putting his data together.

Fly

[atom73]

FLY, No problem. I am with you on the collaborative power of many experimenters. I just wish T- Bird had some mire success. Next batch I make I am going to try tweaking a little and in the future plan on trying the ball mill method based on what has been posted here. I think its a good thread and has generated a lot of good discussion as well as directed us to some other resources.
Mike

[zxcvbob]

My first powder was kind off between a fizzle and a "poof" when I tried it when I thought it was dry. I waited another month with the powder sitting in a metal pie pan on top of a heating duct (getting *really* dry) and tried it again and it went "BANG!". Also, when really dry the powder was lighter in color than it had been the first time.

But there's still a problem if the density was that low; 17 grains to fill a .45 Colt cartridge is too light.

[Fly]

Atom I faliled more than once starting out.I wish he would have had success also.You hate
to see someone just give up.When I first started I had no one to ask.I just ran around the
net reading & doing.

I finally did pretty good & about that time I got into the fireworks deal.I met many of those folks that helped me alot.Muzzle loaders are still my first love, but I enjoy the fireworks
also.

Fly

[Fly]

My first powder was kind off between a fizzle and a "poof" when I tried it when I thought it was dry. I waited another month with the powder sitting in a metal pie pan on top of a heating duct (getting *really* dry) and tried it again and it went "BANG!". Also, when really dry the powder was lighter in color than it had been the first time.

But there's still a problem if the density was that low; 17 grains to fill a .45 Colt cartridge is too light.

Well hear is the deal with cap & ball revolvers.Goex & the rest of the powder
over the counter is pressed wet into pucks, then set out to dry.When dry it is ground
into grains & sifed threw screens for the different powders 4ffffg, 3fffg, & so on.

Thats why it is more dense.You can do the same with a hydralic jack for pressing.
Go to Dannys site for he exsplains that, it's called cornded powder.He also tell's
Atoms method, & mine.

For my cap & ball revolvers I do press mind.But for Muzzle loaders I just weigh
what I made against Goex & what ever volume mind comes out to be at the same weight I just use that volume.SIMPLE!
Fly

[Charlie Sometimes]

I'm dying to try this, just haven't got my act together enough (it's spring, you know- other things keep jumping ahead of it). Dang it, anyway! Too many irons in the fire.

[Fly]

Charley "You West Virginia Boy's are known for not getting in a hurry".

( Wink) Fly

[T-Bird]

I ain't giving up! I make my own bullets, I make my own breads, I even cut my own grass! Seriously, I know many times theye are small things that make a big difference with all kinds of recipes. I did try this powder the next day after I made it. I 'll wait a couple of weeks , let it dry, and try again.It seemed dry tho. I don't know why it was so light, I bet my screen was to large. If it doesn't work, i'll try it w/o the dextrin next. T-Bird

[Fly]

T-Bird it not the dextrin, beleave me on that one.I make my own dextrin & use it in some
of my own black powder.I would think it's your charcoal more than anything.Lump charcoal
is made from hard woods.Oak,Hickery ect, & not good at all for fast BB.

The only thing I use hard wood charcoal for is in stars I make for fireworks effects, because
it burns slow & makes golden sparks.

If you pm me I will gladly send you some siver maple charcoal to try.Black willow works great
also as do some others.Atom & I just want to get you on the right path to the fun of making
your own BP.

Fly