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Thread: A New Savage

  1. #1
    Boolit Grand Master

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    A New Savage

    This weekend I traded for an 1899 Savage rifle in 30-30 caliber. The gun has an excellent bore and the stock is in good condition with normal dents and scrapes for a gun made in 1902. I am not a Savage man and I don't know if I have a problem here...
    The gun locks up very tight, the last 1/4" of lever travel is quite tight and you have to squeeze the gun shut. Is this normal ? The headspace measures ok, and there doesn't seem to be any crud in the action. Am I missing something? I plan to do some tests with the Savage and a 26" bbl Winchester from the same era.

  2. #2
    Boolit Master

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    KSCO,
    Not sure about the lock-up, but I have seen some that required a bit of effort to get that final "latch" on those lever guns. One thing that sort of surprised me is the fact that you have one in 30-30 Winchester. I honestly didn't know they were made in that round. Learn something everyday...BCB

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master
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    Both of the 99's I've had exhibited a bit of drag at end of the closing cycle as you describe. One was an early 1900's takedown in 25-35, the other is my present 1930-vintage 250 Savage.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master and Generous Donator
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    KCSO, BCB, Al: Yes, the 1899 Savage was made early-on in .30-30 as well as .303. I am looking at a nice reprint of a 1903 catalog (this and others are available at www.savage99.com) which lists 1899's as being available in both calibers, and six Savage factory loadings in .303 and four in .30-30 - including jacketed and cast bullet gallery rounds, and one BP load in .303 only. The same issue states that the rifle was now also being made in .25-35, .32-40 and .38-55.

    As to the added effort for the last 1/4-inch (actually more like 3/8" of bolt travel) on the closing stroke, most of this comes from the final cocking of the striker, and some from the lever extension sliding into place between the tail of the bolt and a locking abutment inside the bottom of the receiver. Hold the trigger back as you close the lever, and the cocking part of the effort goes away. This is how to safely de-cock the rifle before putting it away (but NOT on a loaded chamber!).

    By the way, 1899's numbered under 90,000 had a square left rear corner atop the bolt, which gave a "stress riser" here, and much-fired specimens may show a crack starting at this point. Savage later rounded the rear of the bolt and left about 1/4" deeper (fore-and-aft) frame metal behind it; if you sent in a pre-90,000 rifle for repair, they would replace the receiver and re-fit the buttstock at no charge. I have never heard of an early 1899 actually coming apart here - and I once tried to "blow" a junker without success; it split the receiver ring first, where it had been drilled for a scope mount - but some caution is indicated with those oldest ones. Still, a truly GREAT design, and much-missed. floodgate

  5. #5
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance Four Fingers of Death's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by floodgate
    KCSO, BCB, Al: Yes, the 1899 Savage was made early-on in .30-30 as well as .303. I am looking at a nice reprint of a 1903 catalog (this and others are available at www.savage99.com) which lists 1899's as being available in both calibers, and six Savage factory loadings in .303 and four in .30-30 - including jacketed and cast bullet gallery rounds, and one BP load in .303 only. The same issue states that the rifle was now also being made in .25-35, .32-40 and .38-55.

    As to the added effort for the last 1/4-inch (actually more like 3/8" of bolt travel) on the closing stroke, most of this comes from the final cocking of the striker, and some from the lever extension sliding into place between the tail of the bolt and a locking abutment inside the bottom of the receiver. Hold the trigger back as you close the lever, and the cocking part of the effort goes away. This is how to safely de-cock the rifle before putting it away (but NOT on a loaded chamber!).

    By the way, 1899's numbered under 90,000 had a square left rear corner atop the bolt, which gave a "stress riser" here, and much-fired specimens may show a crack starting at this point. Savage later rounded the rear of the bolt and left about 1/4" deeper (fore-and-aft) frame metal behind it; if you sent in a pre-90,000 rifle for repair, they would replace the receiver and re-fit the buttstock at no charge. I have never heard of an early 1899 actually coming apart here - and I once tried to "blow" a junker without success; it split the receiver ring first, where it had been drilled for a scope mount - but some caution is indicated with those oldest ones. Still, a truly GREAT design, and much-missed. floodgate
    The local gun dealer, who operates out of a shop in his basement has one in 30-30 in well used but shootable condition. He is convinced it is worth a fortune but can't decide what price to put on it.

    I will have to have a better look at it.
    Mick.
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  6. #6
    Boolit Master on Heaven’s Range
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    KCSO: Saw URNY giving his md.99 30/30 an outing at NCBS '05. Mine is like the one 4FingerMick's Aussie Acq. has, too valuable to leave the house without roadguards. !! Onceabull
    "The Eagle is no flycatcher"

  7. #7
    Boolit Grand Master
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    The aforementioned 1899 x 25-35 WCF ranks among the STUPIDEST sales I ever made, right along with the S&W 25-2. The Savage was a takedown, and I had an idea to have barrels made up in a host of calibers, like 30-30, 35-30, 32-40, 38-55. You get the drift. I lost interest in the project for some unrecalled reason, and sold the 99 for a ton of money........then spent 5 years finding a replacement 25-35 of some kind.

    I'll have nightmares tonight, for sure.
    I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Good news and bad news...
    First the rifle has an excellent bore, is all matching numbers and locks up tight. The bad news is that the firing pin retractor is missing. I have E mailed a couple of places and no replies so far. As a single shot the gun groups well, but I have to wiggle the lever to get the firing pin to pop back to open the gun all the way and I don't wan't to shoot it as a repeater witout the retractor. If I had a shop drawing or a sample I would make one. I would really like to try my 185 R/N bullets in this gun and duplicate the original 303 Savage load of a 190 at 1950fps.

  9. #9
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    KSCO

    Are you sure the part isn't a hammer retractor spring? If so Gun Parts has that, they also have a drawing for the 99 Savage.

    Joe

  10. #10
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    KSCO

    Go here, this is an official Savage company diagram.

    http://www.savageparts.com/centerlever.htm

    Joe

  11. #11
    Boolit Grand Master

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    Thanks, but these are the first folks I tried. The gun I have is a 1899A first model made in 1902. The part I need is listed in the 1900 catalog as a hammer retractor and looks nothing like the later spring style retractors. This is a see saw lever with a U front and a tapered tail on the rear. With the old style hammer( what we wouold call a firing pin assembly) this piece manually retracts the firing pin when the lever is lowered and releases it just at lock up. Without this piece the firing pin will sometimes stick in the primer and the lever jams as the breech block starts to tip. If I had a shop drawing with dimensions I could probably whip one up, but by trial and error I will have more time in it than the gun is worth. I am maiing out pictures to parts houses tonight, but hold little hope, this is going to be like getting bolt heads for an 88 Commission rifle. Them that has them keeps them.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master
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    99

    KCSO;
    Have you checked Brownell's or Numrich?
    Don

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have found an original part to copy and have the dimensions. I thank everyone who tried for me. This looks like about a 4 hour machining job, but the gun will be a super shooter when finished.

    Thanks

  14. #14
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
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    Guys...The Savage 99 has no locking lugs at all. The bolt itself cams into battery in the receiver. The fit of the bolt to the receiver is what holds the whole gizmo in place. THEREFORE there should/ought/must be some resistance/drag as the bolt cams into place in the receiver. If there is none, then you have a problem.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master

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    Quote Originally Posted by BCB
    KSCO,
    One thing that sort of surprised me is the fact that you have one in 30-30 Winchester.
    About 20 years ago I saw a friend lose a $5.00 bet over that. I'll never forget the winner with his hard core Brooklyn accent after he drove home and brought it back, "heya ya believe me now"

  16. #16
    Boolit Mold
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    I have shot and worked on a number of 30-30 Savage 1899's

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check