WidenersLee PrecisionTitan ReloadingRepackbox
Load DataMidSouth Shooters SupplyReloading EverythingRotoMetals2
Inline Fabrication Snyders Jerky
Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 20 of 23

Thread: HELP !!! Lyman 450 wrench part # ???

  1. #1
    Boolit Bub 10 Spot Terminator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Redmond, Oregon
    Posts
    70

    HELP !!! Lyman 450 wrench part # ???

    Hey All,,,

    I have been all over Lymans web site and cant seem to fine a way to find the wrench for the sizer die retainer nut. If anyone has a Lyman products instruction manual I understand it may be in there. I need to order one of these like yesterday and would appreciate the part # if possible. If anyone has one they dont need as well I would be more than willing to buy or swap for it as well

    Thanks guys,

    10 Spot

  2. #2
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Eastern North Carolina
    Posts
    125

    Smile Lyman Wrench

    Ratchet Wrench; SKU 2745804. $7.00. Hope this is what your looking. God bless.

  3. #3
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Eastern North Carolina
    Posts
    125

    Smile Lyman Wrench

    I can't get my previous post to delete so hear is the correct one: 4500/450 Combo Wrench. SKU 2990520. $2.00.

  4. #4
    Boolit Grand Master in Remembrance


    jcwit's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    somewhere in the middle
    Posts
    5,226
    From what the first post says he needs the wrench for the retainer nut for the die not the ratchet wrench for the pressure screw.

    This might be what you want but I can't find a pix so call and ask. Or you could use a Cresent wrench, AKA Tennessee socket set.

    Replacement Parts 4500/450 - Combo Wrench
    $2.00

    Tjey don't even list a part number, just the discription.
    Last edited by jcwit; 12-31-2010 at 12:01 PM.

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    4,116
    Call Lyman and talk to Nancy.

    Question: Does anyone know what the other end of the wrench is designed for?

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Eastern North Carolina
    Posts
    125
    Did you not read my second post? The other end is for the nut on the threaded rod that stops the down stroke.

  7. #7
    Banned


    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    29˚68’27”N, 99˚12’07”W
    Posts
    14,662
    Mine has a knurled nut on the stop rod, not a hex, I was wondering the same thing 462 was.

    The advantage to having the correct wrench is it has an offset tab opposite the handle on the inside of the flat that allows you to put downpressure on the nut while tightening, this is really helpful to prevent cross threading that little buggar.

    Gear

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Posts
    4,116
    Thanks for the information, sturf. My 4500 has the round, knurled adjuster, too.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master
    wallenba's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S. E. Michigan
    Posts
    2,695
    My little orange 4500 manual lists a hex wrench # 2998880 no pic though. Ratchet wrench is 2745808 and a combo wrench is 2990520, so I'm thinkin' you need the combo. The one pictured is a combo.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails lymanwrench.jpg  
    Last edited by wallenba; 12-31-2010 at 02:01 PM.
    Dutch

    "The future ain't what it used to be".
    -Yogi Berra.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
    wallenba's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    S. E. Michigan
    Posts
    2,695
    You can get away with using a crescent wrench if you start the threads with you fingers first. It helps to square up the nut by lowering the ram on it, then turning with fingers, If you cross thread it, you are truly s#%&*ed. But it's no riskier than using the Lyman tool, I always use the most care there.
    Dutch

    "The future ain't what it used to be".
    -Yogi Berra.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master clintsfolly's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    outside lansing mi
    Posts
    858
    Try holding the ram on top retainer to hold it straight. helps get it started Clint

  12. #12
    Boolit Master

    GP100man's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Southeast, NC (Coastal plains)
    Posts
    2,123
    I put the nut on the die ,insert die until it contacts the housing , remove top punch & use the ram to apply a little pressure & to hold it square .

    Helps to have it warm , especially on stiff loobes !!

    Almost forgot , I use a 6" or 8" cresent wrench, just snug enuff to prevent leaking .
    GP100man

  13. #13
    Boolit Buddy insanelupus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    My Eldorado
    Posts
    226
    The other end of the wrench adjusts the nut on the bottom of the sizer which adjusts the depth the bullet is lowered into the area where it is lubed.

  14. #14
    Boolit Master



    Springfield's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    San Jose, California
    Posts
    3,685
    I was taught to ALWAYS start nuts and bolts by hand to prevent crossthreading, especially with important items like spark plugs. So small crescent works for me.

  15. #15
    Moderator Emeritus


    JonB_in_Glencoe's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Land of 10,000 Lakes
    Posts
    15,878
    Heat is most definiately a big help.
    when starting the nut with your fingers,
    Hot lube lets you "feel" the threads start.
    Jon
    ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
    “If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
    ― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001

  16. #16
    Boolit Bub 10 Spot Terminator's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Redmond, Oregon
    Posts
    70
    THANKS GUYS !!!

    I will be shooting off an order A.S.A.P. but may try the cresent wrench to pull the 357 die out and get my .358 die on line. This will keep me bizzy until the wrench gets to me. By the by,,, I came up with a trick for a press heater . I bolted my press through a 1/4 inch aluminum plate appx 4 inches wide and ran it out the back about 5 inches. I rest a clothes iron on the back part. Nice adjustable thermostat on that iron. The plate cost me about about $3.00 at the scrapyard and I have 1/2 of it left. Just cant size boolits on laundry day

  17. #17
    Banned


    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    29˚68’27”N, 99˚12’07”W
    Posts
    14,662
    Quote Originally Posted by Springfield View Post
    I was taught to ALWAYS start nuts and bolts by hand to prevent crossthreading, especially with important items like spark plugs. So small crescent works for me.
    HEHEE, noob.

    Gear

  18. #18
    Boolit Grand Master
    btroj's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    Nebraska's oldest city
    Posts
    12,418
    If we don't cross thread anything how can we ever learn to FIX things? It is all part of the natural progression, teaching things like this is bad.
    Everyone needs to cross thread at least one thing I life. Only then can you truly understand the value of hand starting a threaded device.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master on Heaven’s Range
    WHITETAIL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    NE Pa.
    Posts
    1,178
    There is a saying in my bisness.
    There is nothing tighter than a good cross thread.
    Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy!
    Ben Franklin

  20. #20
    Boolit Grand Master Char-Gar's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Deep South Texas
    Posts
    12,820
    I make certain both the internal and external threads are clean, use the ram to keep things straight and turn with a crescent wrench. I lost the Lyman wrench many years ago. You can also use a 1/4 ratchet wrench and the correct socket to turn the top gizmo.
    Disclaimer: The above is not holy writ. It is just my opinion based on my experience and knowledge. Your mileage may vary.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check