Would be nice if Lee would........

[Ben]

Would be nice if Lee would offer a bullet mold ( even if the price had to go up a little ) with an adjustable locking screw for variable tension on the sprue plate.

I just ordered a Lee 338 , 220 gr. mold. When it arrived the sprue plate was so tight that it cut and scared the top of the mold each time it was opened and closed. I tried to remove the sprue plate tension screw and couldn't budge it ! ! I had to used my dremel with a cut off wheel and cut / grind a pair of flats on the screw head , then I was able to remove it with Vice Grips.

I then drilled and tapped an 8 - 40 hole in the side of the mold block to allow me to use a sprue plate tension screw lock screw . Now I have perfect sprue plate tension and have the ability to lock and hold that tension setting . Recently all the Lee molds that I've ordered have far too much tension on the sprue plate screw.

Photos below...........
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[Lloyd Smale]

I wish theyd offer a line of high end 6 cavity STEEL MOLDS!

[PatMarlin]

Nice job Ben.

I've got one of my favorite 45-70 molds that the plate tightened up on me and scared it. I gotta fix it like yours.

Or send it to you..

[Ben]

Thanks Pat,

If you start out with a " non - galded " top mold surface and keep it lubed & keep light pressure on the sprue plate, you're " In Business ! ! " with this system.

I use moly paste between the sprue plate and the mold blocks. I put a thin film ( and I mean REAL THIN FILM ) on the underside of the sprue plate and a thin film on the top surface of the blocks. Works for me.

Best,

Ben

[Dale53]

I have no financial interest in Bull Shop's Sprue Plate Lube but I am an enthusiastic supporter of this lubricant for bullet moulds. It is the best stuff that I have used in fifty years of bullet casting. Really good stuff!!

Ben;
Thank you for sharing an excellent idea with us. Your pictures really help...

Dale53

[Ben]

Dale53:

Thanks....I'm a dig. camera bug... I've always thought a picture was worth a thousand words. I like using my dig. camera.

Take a look at my web site and look at the stock finishing photos that I've done recently :

http://www.geocities.com/benallenhays/gunstocks.html

Thanks,

Ben

[Four Fingers of Death]

Nice stocks. Do you make the stocks, or just re finish? Brilliant work. Mick.

[Ed K]

Nice stock work Ben!

I like working with Tung oil myself. Do you work with the oil and varnish blends or 100% pure oil?

Ed

[Ben]

Thanks fellows for those nice comments. I like people that like nice wood ! !

What do I use ? I use a mixture of urathanes and oil finishes. Tough, pretty and repairable.

Mick.....No I don't make any stocks, I try and focus on finishing and refinishing only.

Best,

Ben

[Four Fingers of Death]

Man, you'd doing that right, superb work, well done. I spent ages checking every photo out. That repair on the Anchutz was unbelievable, how did you do that? Mick.

[454PB]

Nice conversion on your Lee mould.

The sprue cutter screw can be loosened, but it requires a bit that fits tightly, and the mould blocks clamped in a vice. I've done adjustments on about half of mine, and haven't boogered a screw yet.

[Ben]

You'd think that Lee could come up with a better system.

I guess it works out better for Lee to put in a 2 cent self tapping screw.

Ben

[Ben]

Mick:

The ultimate compliment to any repair like that is your question.....How'd you do that ? ? Thanks,

Ben

[sundog]

I used to didn't like Lee moulds. Still don't all that well, but some of our group buys were to good to pass up, and certainly worth it. Years ago I began doing the same thing Ben did. Anytime I get a new Lee mould it gets the treatment before use, as well as a good cleaning and deburring. It's worth the extra effort. sundog

[4060MAY]

Somewhere in the database (my mind) I remember a permanent fix for LEE sprue plates, I thought it was in the Fouling Shot but I couldn't find the reference.

unbolt the handles
remove the sprue plate screw and plate
drill a clearance hole, this is where I'm not sure of the size, thru the mould
grind a clearance on the handle for the screw that goes all the way thru the mould
assemble the handles assuring clearance on the new sprue hold down
use a locking nut, not nylon to adjust the sprue plate tension.

I have a Jerry Barnett mould made this way, never any trouble.

[4060MAY]

Somewhere in the database (my mind) I remember a permanent fix for LEE sprue plates, I thought it was in the Fouling Shot but I couldn't find the reference.

unbolt the handles
remove the sprue plate screw and plate
drill a clearance hole, this is where I'm not sure of the size, thru the mould
grind a clearance on the handle for the screw that goes all the way thru the mould
assemble the handles assuring clearance on the new sprue hold down
use a locking nut, not nylon to adjust the sprue plate tension.
double nuts like NEI would work also.


I have a Jerry Barnett mould made this way, never any trouble.