Search:

As noted, your powder wont setup properly baked at much less than 400 for 15min min.

I am not sure because I air cool then PC/quench but depending on your water source, it can leave a film on the bullet that may cause the PC to not bond well. Again, not sure, never tried it but some...

^^THIS^^ Quenching as you cast then PC & air cool will soften the bullet. You get some of it back quenching out of the PC oven. So just aircool & quench out of the PC oven.

I cast for PF competition too, but unless you are riding the ragged edge of minimum, variation in bullet weight of +/- 5gr isnt an issue.

Melting point of alum is like 1200deg so unless you put a torch to it, you arent melting alum.

^^this^^^

In 1990 I was paying $10/1000 for Win LPP @ a retail shop, not internet orders back then. You could do a bit better at the gun shows, but not much. Powder was never more than $10-$12/# too. OF course...

Or use heavier bullet data & work up. We should always work up loads, but data for 240gr lswc wont work well for a 265gr WNFP.

I did some vel testing with upper midrange loads & diff seating depths. Both in 9mm, 147gr using WST & Unique. I reduced OAL by 0.010" & fired 3 rds. I found no significant vel increases until I...

I flux when melting scrap into ingots, almost always sawdust. When I cast I just tir with a wooden paint stick everytime I add clean alloy. Its the only add'l fluxing I do, works fine.

I've shot the Saeco 158grTC. It seats too deep for me but does work. A RN or RNFP would seat out a bit further. The 16-165 shoot stupid soft but in a heavy steel slide, like a 1911, the slide speed...

I think that is what I said? Water dropping out of the molds then PC then out of the oven seems pointless.

Issue with pure lead in shallow rifling is getting good stability. Just adding a bit of tin helps, certainly a bit of harder alloy like lino makes a big diff. I shoot a lot of range scrap with very...

You would be wrong about bearing surface not being an issue. It matters when loading the top end. Just as seating deeper matters. Everything matters at the top end.

I regret getting rid of that mold.

You get pretty good at ID the zinc. YOu don't need to test the entire bucket, just the ones you aren't sure of. Keep the melt at 700deg & everything not lead floats out.

Depending on what you want the bullets for, IA 4-1 lead/lino for most handguns applications. It cast great, doesnt really need any more tin.

A bunch of early LEA G22 got KB using lead bullets. Many dept back then used remanuf ammo with lead bullet for practice. Dont clean the bbl, fire jacketed after & it got exciting.

Coated bullets are just fine in poly bbls. It is all I run in my Glocks. You can even run lubed lead, just clean the bbl more often. Though I never get great accuracy with lubed lead in poly bbls.

Accurate are CNC machined, why there are no true round nose designs. Also why Tom can make small changes to any mold & give you what you want. He is great to work with & the quality is top notch....

I have several Accurate molds & the final weight will not be exact. COWW is what I order but COWW can be all over on composition, then casting temps change final size a bit.
If you find a mold...

The 9.3x74 is longer so I dont see how you could get proper sizing with the shorter case?

Water dropping while casting then heating bullets up to 400deg for 15-20m undoes any gain. You are better off air cooling & water dropping out of the PC oven imo.

Bullets are rarely plug & play. Change to a diff one, you should back off & work up. At max, everything matters.

You would have to put a heck of a lot of PC to have the bullet not fit most pistols. I have used it, works fine in a GLock OEM.