If you could find a nut to fit just clear the old rod threads in the old pusher nut and weld or solder the new nut to your old pusher nut and prolly last the rest of your life. Or have some one do it for you.
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If you could find a nut to fit just clear the old rod threads in the old pusher nut and weld or solder the new nut to your old pusher nut and prolly last the rest of your life. Or have some one do it for you.
@ Hossfly, could be but I am so sure about it
@shortlegs, quest what I was searching in my house for a nut that fit the spindle thread but I donīt have one.
Problem is we have metric thread
Do you know the size of the thread ? Is dat 3/8" ?
@Imashooter2, I check our local stores
Needed a new "pressure seal" for one of my 450s which had the old brass type. Came across this guy:
Paul Brown
1049 BUCKRIDGE RD
WETUMPKA AL
36093-2326
Phone 334-399-1773
He refurbishes 450s, and seems to know them inside and out. Lyman doesn't have pressure seals in stock but he does. Shipped my order same day. Small business, doesn't do credit cards but does do Paypal.
Look on Gunbroker for >Lyman 450 pressure seal<
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/930110633
@JonB_in_Glencoe, thanks for the size. 3/8-20 makes it more difficult to get a nut here in the Netherlands, regular 3/8" nut is difficult but possible but 3/8-20 is hard to find
@uscra112, thanks for the link but it say "no international shipments". If someone can help me to get one I appreciate and ofcourse I pay all cost in advance
HAPPY EASTERN TO ALL OF YOU
re: International shipment: I'll find out what I can do. It's been a few years, but i was able to ship Bultaco parts to some European countries when I was selling on evilBay. Used a USPS "small shipments" protocol. Will be at the Post Office on Tuesday (19 Apr). Get back to you then. Is your spindle OK? With the nut stripping out I'd have some concern about it.
Lyman was almost certainly in the habit of maintaining backward compatibility with the original Ideal products, which started long before WW1, when the Army forced thread standardization on manufacturers. Before that it was every man for himself. Machine tool builders were notorious for using proprietary threads. So were gun makers. I think it may have had something to do with the fact that each manufacturer had to make his own threading tools in the toolroom. So the thread pitches were entirely the whim of the factory superintendent. Don't get me started on British motorcycles.
Making tong tool dies for oddball cartridges like .25 Stevens and .32 Colt had me stalled for quite a while, because the thread on 310 dies is one that my WW2 South Bend toolroom lathe gearbox can't do. I eventually resorted to making inserts that go into a universal decapper body.
'Course today, with CNC lathes, strange threads are just a matter of programming.
I appreciate your help very much. :awesome:
I take a serious look at the spindle and not all threads are sharp anymore so if you donīt mind it might be better to buy a new spindle too then I am sure the nut fit correctly to the spindle.
By the way I have the yellow 450 press.
Yellow?
This is my press
Attachment 299072
Looks orange to me.
Slim
Me to but after my search on internet most people describe it as the yellow press [smilie=b: :D
It is some time ago I respond here but I want to thank uscra112 te get me the parts : THANK YOU
I was out for some time so I could not do something but now that I am back I want to start to make new lube because I think my RCBS lube is to old and to stiff
I bought the RCBS bullet lube when I was in the States between 1990 and 2000 so it is over 20 years old.
My intension is to meld the RCBS lube and add some oil or something like that so I donīt have to trow away the RCBS
Can someone advice me if that will work and what oil or something else is the best to add ?
All kinds of things - vaseline, olive oil, lithium grease, Lee Liquid Alox......regardless what you use it won't require much.
But if it's the dark brown beeswax-and-Alox kind, just melt it and pour it into the 450's reservoir. I'm using some Lyman "NRA" lube that my Dad had stored up in the 1970's. Kept in its' wrapper, it never goes bad.
I have a small glass kitchen measuring cup with pouring lip, about 250 ml., into which I put the lube I want to melt. Stand this in a bowl of water, (not too deep) and microwave it. Depending on the amount of water, it may only need 2 minutes. Let it cool again, and see if you still want to add anything.
When pouring liquid into the 450, have a sizing die installed or the lube will run out the bottom. Fill to about 2 cm. from the top. Any more and you won't be able to start the piston. I've never actually measured it, but I think the 450 holds less than 100 ml.
Store the little cup in a sealed plastic bag so dirt won't get into it. You'll use it again, I guarantee. I rarely use the preformed sticks anymore. I'm not much of a believer in "Magic Moose Milk" lubes. All but one of my lubrisizers has NRA lube in it. The last one has White Label "3000" for high velocity rifle bullets, which I don't do anymore anyway. I'm slowly using it up on .25-20 bullets.
Phil W.
Do I understand well you fill the 450 container with melted lube ?
My intension was to melt the dark brown RCBS lube and add just a little oil or something and pour it in a self made container like this :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GbbHVfZSBoQ
This is the lube I have
Attachment 301533
I never had a problem with this lube but since the piston problem I am more carefull
I have found this to be a nutty post. I will go with the guy in Alabama. But, for my tractor hydraulics, theoringstore.com will certainly be getting a call. Does anybody have a guess as how to classify the Lyman O-rings? I mean hydraulic, high pressure? I have never dealt with "theoringstore"- just tossing it out there.
I understand your concern, but I wouldn't add anything to that lube, I would use it as is.
RCBS states that is alox/beeswax mixed to the NRA specs of 50-50. Many other companies made the same formula, it's a very good lube. I have some NRA 50-50 made by Tamarack that is 40 years old. It's not dried out, I don't think it can dry out. When you start lubing/sizing, if the ambient temperature is cool, just add some heat to the lubesizer, before you put any pressure on the lube.
OK thanks, I give it a try