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Gentlemen,
I have a question regarding induction annealing brass. I have been looking at some videos trying to understand how long is long enough with the heat. Do you stop when the brass is just about to glow orange, or do you stop as soon as it turns orange.
Thanks
The short answer, yes. Just reaching 750 degrees F is not enough because there is a time factor involved. Go over to the Accurate Rifle forum for more information. People there shoot benchrest and F class, they really try to squeeze all the accuracy and precision possible.
https://forum.accurateshooter.com/
https://forum.accurateshooter.com/th...r-750.3964669/
Thank you sir.Quote:
Originally Posted by Charliemac
Tempilaq will tell you when you reach the desired temperature.
I don't induction anneal brass. That said, NO. Most 'hide' the neck from you so you can't tell. Anneal some at a specific time and test the anneal with needle nose pliers. Find the right time and set the machine.
Couldn’t he paint inside the neck with 750 templac then start with a short time. Cool the brass after each test and slowly increase time until he gets 750?Quote:
Originally Posted by popper
At 750 I believe that the annealing soak time for cartridge brass is a fraction of a second.
I use an AMP, and I think it varies both current and time to avoid burning a hole in the brass.
Check out this interesting video.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=M8AxgPPoKkU
Induction annealers have a calibration mode that configures the machine for the brass you want to anneal. You usually have to sacrifice one piece of brass for this.
You don't need to worry about the color of anything, it does everything automatically.
I do quite a bit of induction annealing, and you will need 750/Deg Templac to know if the brass is properly annealed.
As said before timing is very critical and to long of a time will melt the brass.
Depending on the cartridge always start at a lower time and work your way up.
You may scrap out several cartridges in the process, but you should be able to find the minimum time needed when using 750/Deg Templac.
Keep records of the time required for each cartridge.
I've found out where the cartridge is located in the coil makes a big difference.
I try to concentrate on the base of the cartridge which gives me the best reading when using the Templac.
This is where positioning and timing come into play.
Hope this helps. If any specific information is needed let me know.
Thank You
I do it by hand.
Surplus bolt actions for ringing a 200 yard gong only. Open sights. This is not precision shooting.
Shiloh
The flame will change color right before the brass starts to glow. I suppose if you had the room completely dark and devoid of light the brass might glow slightly. Get a bottle of tempilaq and compare, and I reckon you'll find this is extremely close if not right on the money. It has been for me anyways.
Im cheap. I use a propane torch, a dark room, and a drill with a socket to fit the brass. I turn the brass with the drill til its just slightly glowing all the way around on the neck, then dump into a bucket of water. Works for me. Takes about ten to 15 seconds per case.
I spend too much time trying to make each piece of brass the same. I use Templac and I haven’t had a problem.
https://www.amazon.com/Vertex-Manufa.../dp/B01IE0BX1M
My brother and I went in halves on one of these machines years ago. Fast and precise. We also use Templaque to dial everything in.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RmcIgSsbR1M
all you need very simple
One method people use is to stick the necks into molten lead in a casting pot for a moment.
My son and I do that together, drill with socket and extension, propane torch, 5-gallon pail of water. Will do a couple thousand at a time. Does not take long.Quote:
Originally Posted by sigep1764