1862 Pocket Police C&B to .32 S&W

Okay, another project in the works - converting an 1862 Pocket Police from 36 C&B to a .32 S&W cartridge. Plan is to line the .36 (.375) barrel with a .32 barrel liner (I know that the twist will not be optimal using a .32-20 liner but considering the practical shooting distances it may not make any difference). Loads will be BP or equivalent pressure smokeless and 85-95 grain cast bullets. I have the BP cylinder machined down and drilled through and .32 liner cut for the chambers. Next step will be to epoxy the liners into the cylinder and then cut the chambers. Also have the back plate spacer machined. Plan is to use a fixed firing pin attached to the hammer similar to some of the original conversions with two small rivets and no loading gate latch, just an open loading gate cut into the back plate spacer.

The .32short & Wimpy case is really small, and using a RN bullet is even harder to hang on to. Why not the .32S&W Long case, much easier to get a hold of and it loads to the same pressure.

If your shooting lead you can use a 30 Luger liner, .311 groove with 1 in 10 twist. Pressure should not be a problem with the shot or long. The short max pressure is 12,000 and the long is 15,000 PSI. If you'r planning on making the cylinder from scratch I would use 4140 heat treated steel, I have used this for making cylinders for the 1858 Remington. Also I would bore the barrel out to 1/2" for the liner. This sounds like a fun project.

When installing the barrel liner and cylinder liners, do you have to align them for proper cylinder timing and if so do you use a snug fitting rod through the barrel into the cylinders?
This is a project that I have be thinking of doing.

The brass that I have is actually .32 S&W Long and that's what I'm planning on chambering to. Bullets are a FP at this point and don't seem to be any more difficult to handle than the 125 gr. for .32-20.

The thought at this point is to bore the cylinder chambers concentric with the existing BP chambers, check the alignment with a range rod and use an appropriate forcing cone diameter to offset any discrepancies.

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Originally Posted by John Taylor

If your shooting lead you can use a 30 Luger liner, .311 groove with 1 in 10 twist. Pressure should not be a problem with the shot or long. The short max pressure is 12,000 and the long is 15,000 PSI. If you'r planning on making the cylinder from scratch I would use 4140 heat treated steel, I have used this for making cylinders for the 1858 Remington. Also I would bore the barrel out to 1/2" for the liner. This sounds like a fun project.

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Thanks for the .30 Luger liner info. I've got some on order now.

Here's the progress thus far.
1862 Pocket Police in .36 C&B
Attachment 299203

Spare cylinder machined to length to remove nipples and rounded contour at rear of cylinder with .32 barrel liner inserts epoxied in.
Attachment 299204

Spare cylinder with .32 barrel liner inserts epoxied in - muzzle end.
Attachment 299205

Spare cylinder with .32 barrel liner inserts epoxied in - breech end.
Attachment 299206

Roughness on cylinder exterior is paste wax residue to prevent any excess epoxy from sticking. Next step will be to machine breech end extensions off and turn rear of cylinder to desired profile. If project fails this will be chalked up to a learning experience and lessons learned applied to next revision...

Do you not have to have support around the rear end of those tubes? Maybe just me but that seems thin wall for strength.
Looks like a fun project!

The rear ends will be milled off mostly to a profile even with the rear of the cylindrical portion of the cylinder and in an appropriate diameter to fit into the recess on the face of the frame so that the hand can engage the cocking notches.

I have pondered such a project but would have gone with .38 S&W. Any reason you did not?

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Originally Posted by Dan Cash

I have pondered such a project but would have gone with .38 S&W. Any reason you did not?

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The original plan was to go .38 Colt but the cylinder walls were looking too thin and it chewed up too much of the notches for the hand at the rear of the cylinder. With the .32 more chamber thickness is available. I don't know how the originals were chambered for .38 although only a few used the fluted cylinder and then they switched to the non-fluted cylinder.

Hello 36g,

I'm not sure about the 38's, but the 44's had a new cylinder with notched located between chambers and a two stage hand.
I have a project which I was going to convert a .36 cal to 38LC, I figured there will still be enough material for the hand to grab.

AntiqueSledMan.

I might be old fashioned, but I really like the 38 S&W. I shoot it and 38 Long Colt, and the Smith just always seems to like me more.
Your project looks fun!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AntiqueSledMan

Hello 36g,

I'm not sure about the 38's, but the 44's had a new cylinder with notched located between chambers and a two stage hand.
I have a project which I was going to convert a .36 cal to 38LC, I figured there will still be enough material for the hand to grab.

AntiqueSledMan.

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Here is my version of your project on an 1851 Navy.
Attachment 299384