Here is a piece of brass with some Alox on it. I then used my little soldering iron and found it is a great flux. Solder flowed even better then it does with acid core. No burned flux and it will not corrode the metal.
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Here is a piece of brass with some Alox on it. I then used my little soldering iron and found it is a great flux. Solder flowed even better then it does with acid core. No burned flux and it will not corrode the metal.
I'll keep that in mind when I run out of my little plasic container of flux. I've got all that lube that comes with the Lee sizers.
Was that the Lee stuff, or something else?
In your second picture, did you just peel the solder off the brass? Did it not stick? I'm not sure from your post whether you are saying Alox is a good flux, or bad. I would think boolit lube should not act like a flux.
I think the pictures are chronologically backwards.
Yeah, they are backwards.
The lube is 50-50 because I do not have a bottle of LLA, I gave it all away.
Would someone try straight alox?
I think ANY lube would make good flux. I am going to try more for fun.
It keeps oxygen away from the metal. As long as the metal is clean to start with that is all that is needed.
Anyway, it is why I say molten lead blasted off the sides of under size boolits or skidding boolits from high pressure gas jets will not be prevented from leading a bore with a lube.
But a lube that runs out and causes friction is as bad.
OK, I just tried a BPCR lube, Felix, Carnauba Red and BAC. All worked to perfection and it was easy to tin the brass.
Kind of a goofy test because barrel steel never gets hot enough to tin unless shot full auto for a time. Lead does not melt to tin the barrel either and even if hot enough, the barrel will not be, so it will be impossible to tin the bore.
Leading is mechanical, not heat related.
I just wanted to show that the idea that lead melts to the bore is wrong. Gas blasted lead can stick but will not be tinned to the steel. Running over it with more boolits makes it tighter and harder to remove plus it just removes more lead from more boolits.
Make the boolit fit, start it so there is no skidding and use the right amount of lube for the whole trip down the bore so lead is not rubbed off.
You need to look at things with a crooked eye. ;) Leading starts and builds up so that there is no more gas leakage on later shots because the bore is now smaller then the boolit. Why doesn't it stop leading? Is there ANY lube that will work at that point?
Sorry, the first shot started it! Correct the first shot and lead will not stick even if you get a little on a patch after one shot or a hundred.
marvelux is good for a flux when soldering too.
Glad you figured out that comparing a piece of brass and an attempt to get it soldered to barrel steel is different than what happens in a barrel. You're under no rule to like alox but it can work as a decent lube within limitations, just as most other lubes do.
I knew that, it can't be done. I just got a bug in my ear when I read posts blaming heat for leading.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bret4207
What better way then to show what heat really does and to forget the idea that boolit bases are melting or any part of a boolit is actually melting to the steel.
But then again, I learned that boolit lube might just be better for plumbing with copper pipe. No worry about flux corroding a joint.
I have to try it on a joint. Rosin core will not work on pipe because it does not flow and acid core will turn stuff green with age. I have seen joints rot through and leak in my friends basement.
The metal just needs cleaned good first.
I just might help sell more of Lar's lube! :bigsmyl2:
Or sometimes just try something goofy.:veryconfuQuote:
Originally Posted by 44man
Back when I shot Hunter's Pistol Silhouette with a 10"-.357 mag TC Contender, I made an interesting discovery.
I had gotten in the practice of using 38 cal swaged hollow based wadcutters, seated way long into the rifling but with a light load for the first ten shots at the 25m chickens. The more heavily loaded commercial 158gr SWCs would lead the last 2" of barrel badly in 40 shots, so the lighter loads put that off a little longer and could shoot 10 shots into one hole. After the end of each match I would fire a few 170gr FMJ bullets to clean most of the lead out of the bore, followed by lots of cleaning at home. This method worked well for some time.
Well, I got on the line at a match one day and found, to my dismay, that I had forgotten to clean the bore or fire the jacketed bullets after the previous match. There was nothing to do except prepare to accept the worst, soft swaged bullets through an already leaded bore.
You can't imagine how surprised I was, after the first five shot string, to find the bore perfectly clean! The lower velocity swaged bullets would clean the bore better than an hour scrubbing with a brush and solvent.
Hooda thunk?
My home brew boolits don't lead the bore of the Contender but I keep the idea in mind for future reference.
Jack
Chasers have always been a good idea. Just ask the gents at the stand-up bar on their way home from work. Common practice among the great lakes regional corner bars. ... felix
There you have it, proof leading is mechanical. Just changing the alloy changes it's affinity to what is in the bore. The softer lead was also tighter in the lands and grooves to make a nicer scraper.Quote:
Originally Posted by jhrosier
Running out of lube or the wrong lube was causing the leading from the heavier loads.
44man, an old friend and very good plumber told me to always wipe a soldered joint with a wet cloth after sweating them together. It got rid of the flux according to him and stopped any further corrosion.
Yes, it is a must to get the flux off. My friends problem was the plumber that did his house (Long before he bought it.) was he never got the internal metal clean and there were pockets of un-tinned copper where solder did not suck into and stick. Flux was trapped and the joints rotted through the fittings.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bret4207
I helped him redo most of the basement and was surprised to see water leaking through fittings.
I be GUD plumber! :mrgreen: I do not believe in acid only doing the cleaning.
If you have green corrosion on soldered joints it means this was not done. It works.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bret4207
I meant through the SIDES of fittings, not at the end. So wiping only cleans what you see.Quote:
Originally Posted by MT Gianni
usually through the sides is from cavitation ,it means he didn't champher his joints. sounds more like a lazy plumber to me.