sooner or later I will have to bite the bullet, and in any case it will be a significant expense for me_
If anyone has experience with both, I'll be happy to learn first and then decide_
thanks to All
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sooner or later I will have to bite the bullet, and in any case it will be a significant expense for me_
If anyone has experience with both, I'll be happy to learn first and then decide_
thanks to All
Unless you want a fancy store bought example, have you thought of making your own?
I made my annealer mainly out of stuff I already had lying around, the only components I had to purchase were a microwave turntable motor and a hobby gas torch.
The drum is cut out of a 6" paint tin, the case stop is part of a M/L cleaning rod, some 10mm ply wood for the frame, an old light switch, a couple of repurposed galvanised brackets from a housing project and a short piece of rubber hose to connect the motor to the drum
Yes I know I have to stand and feed one case at a time, but I can live with that and it works!
The total cost was change out of £20.
Attachment 321394
ukrifleman
UKR, thanks for the input: I would also like the photo of the back, if possible_
my problem is not a fancy (or not) tool, but the reasonable certainty of not wasting cases playing with it_
I have some reservations about flame tools because I think they are more unstable, regardless of the gas cans supply_
but the underlying question, and this is just my problem, is that unless the thicknesses of the necks are absolutely the same, the values for annealing necessarily also change, if I'm not mistaken, and this opens up another can of worms for me .
remember, however, that I am speaking ignorantly here, having never built or tested one of these devices, except hand rotating the cases etc._
...in any case, more info about your machine: photos, even rough drawings, they will be very welcome, because you made me want to try_
obviously I will then have to brand it ACME :razz:
I apologize if I didn't thank you before, but only now I saw your reply_thank you again!
The biggest plus is you can anneal anytime, anywhere. Even in the same lot of brass are variations that give you different reference settings. I've got a friend that has a reference catalog that's updated and shared for various makes and lots of brass. The loose leaf notebook version is 2" thick. I got to play with it a bit but decided to stick with the Bench Source and spend the money on a really nice Sig AXG pistol. It sure fits my hand better than an Amp or Glock.
My club bought an AMP annealer and it works great! Easy and consistent. I used it regularly when I was at the club house. The extra effort to schedule my brass accumulation and a visit to the range, although not too difficult, was more work than just doing it myself at home with my homemade solution. To wit: I turned a solid bar to form a tool that, on one end receives the brass and on the other end fits my electric hand drill. Drop a piece of brass in the fixture and spin the exposed brass in the flame of a propane torch to anneal. There is a learning curve (short). Once familiar with the various makers of brass and various calibers, you can spin right through a large pile of brass in no time. At first, it's normal roach out a couple pieces of brass, but that's the cost of learning the skill. Counting to myself regulates the duration in the flame. Stop before the brass turns red. It's simple, cheap and works very well once you learn the timing of it. good luck.
I’ve got an AMP, a Giraud, and have annealed with a socket and torch. Here’s my opinion on it all.
Draw a classic bell curve.
Draw 3 horizontal lines evenly spaced, breaking the area under the curve into 4 layers.
The peak of the bell is the perfect anneal (whatever that means to you), to the left is underannealed, to the right is over.
The top layer gets you high precision through great consistency, AMP delivers this.
The next two layers gets extended case life, most torch systems deliver this as does a reasonably careful user of other manual approaches. Salt bath falls in here towards the top imo.
The bottom layer you’re doing more harm than good.
Point is, getting a useful anneal is not always a high precision process.
Again, just my opinion.
..."The bottom layer you’re doing more harm than good" it's part of my background today :p,
and therefore I am very appreciative of every comment and opinion
I made a homemade torch based brass annealing machine and am very pleased with it. (See the link below.) I use worn out brass to set the flame intensity each time before I run a big batch of valuable cases.
https://thefiringline.com/forums/sho...ealing+machine