Hello to all.
But...but...what brass to form for .308 caliber? Beyond that 5,7x28 of course...
Thanks
Ciao
Nino
Printable View
Hello to all.
But...but...what brass to form for .308 caliber? Beyond that 5,7x28 of course...
Thanks
Ciao
Nino
iwottopq:
Three ideas for you:
(1) Corbin makes a Swage Die set to convert 9mm to jackets (or .380, or 9mm Kurz, or 9x21's ...) for .308 caliber swaged bullets. I have done this and it's "OK" for projectiles; but by no means compares accuracy wise to my Swaging .308's from 5/16" copper tubing. Not sure if in Italy you can get those dies; but it is an option to look into. There is a "Learning Curve" to this process. One draw back is that the base tends to get skewed at an angle; but I discovered a means of avoiding this with another cheap product to use while swaging the 9mm's down. If you decide to go that way; I can go in more depth for that technique. Link to their product: https://www.swagedies.com/mm5/mercha...ry_Code=jmkits
(2) One can make .308 jackets for swaging .308's by sizing 5.56/.223 cases down incrementally in steps to form a .307/.308 tube. I use NOE bushings to do this in steps. After the tube is formed; use a mini pipe cutter to cut the Jacket to size.
(3) One can make 147/150 gr. FMJ's (Open tip) from .22 WMR brass cases. There will be a small % loss of cases in fabrication. Also; an exposed lead tip can be made from same up to ~175 grains. I wrote a thread on this site; can be found at: https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...ill&highlight=
If either works for you, some postings on this site concerning this; and you can always touch base with me and I'll share my experiences.
Best wishes and Merry Christmas/Happy New Year.
Mustang, if you are you using a Corbin. Are you using a S press or an H?
Mine is an early "S" Press.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajax111
Some of my Jacket forming from Brass Cases (i.e. 9mm and .223 cases) I use a modified forming process. Attempting to form some cases is almost or impossible in a single pass. I have created a "Witness Mark" on the top punch die to allow me to see where the threads are (Single or double scratched line from center to outside edge of the top punch). I can then count the depth of the Top punch screwed into the threads. I will partially see the case down; turn the top punch down, size again, turn the top punch down, size again, etc... until I have the case drawn down. This is surprisingly repeatable and does produce accurate results.
This is a time consuming process; but allows me to use my existing presses/tools to achieve the jacket making without over stressing the dies or even worse getting a piece of brass stuck in a die. (Of course if I am taking a brass case down quite a bit; I may use multiple dies (I.e. multiple NOE Boolit Sizing dies for reducing the Brass in multiple steps).
Thank you, I have an early S press. I have been putting off buying the dies, because of the questions.
This helps me understand how it can be done and not mess up the press or the dies.
Send me a PM when you get ready to start (some Corbin products are taking months to arrive) and I'll correspond to help get you started.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajax111
Thank you for the offer. At this time, I have no idea when. It seems like every time you start on a great project, life gets in the way:)
Hello to all.
Thanks to all for the replies.
The Corbin products are so hard to find in Italy. They are non imported and the buy in USA is so expensive.
Thanks again.
Ciao
Nino
I also like to add that with jackets being made with cartridge brass, you are limited in design with what you can make with cartridge brass, for instance you cannot form a rebated boattail for those kind of jackets, the head stamp is too thick and unable to form, just a heads up.