forming .17-.222 Remington

Buddy of mine that lives across the state now just got a .17-.222 Remington; I don't know what it was built on, he wasn't real clear on the phone. Unfortunately he didn't get the dies with the rifle, said the older guy he bought it from couldn't find them.

I know how to get loading dies, my question is-- are forming dies needed for necking down to .17 caliber or not? My limited experience says yes, at least one intermediate die.

Would it be possible to use a .204 Ruger die as the intermediate step? Might be a little bit too long for the .222 case to make it work???

Personally I think a .17 would be great for fox and smaller varmints, but a bit small for run of the mill coyote hunting.

Thanks for the opinions,

Robert

I've formed 17 Remington brass in one pass from 222 Rem Mag and 223. It comes up a touch short from 223 but never had any issue forming it so forming 17/222 should be fine. He might want to anneal the necks first is the brass is not new brass. The 17/222 is so close to the 17 Remington in performance it should do a fine job on coyotes. My 17 Remington stacked up piles of them. I'd use as 17/222 on them and never worry.

I have a 17-222. I run the 222 brass through the sizer without a problem. As mart said, might want to anneal first. Do you know the twist?

Forming should be a 1 step proposition. I would wait to anneal till AFTER it's formed. I always do that last since finding any weak cases is easier to do when or If it fails the conversion.

Only thing of importance that comes to mind......make sure the cases are squeaky clean. And never put lube anywhere near the neck area.

Thanks for the quick answers guys, I'll let him know.

I have no idea the twist, as I probably won't see the rifle for a month or so; He is working construction and I have animals to take care of. Really cuts down on those spontaneous cross state trips.

Robert

My rifle is a 71/4 twist. I have to use a heavy bullet. 37 gr.

Forming the 17-222 is easily done. Having formed down thousands of cases myself, annealing first is always best when going to the smallish 17 caliber. Annealing softens brass making for easy reduction without work hardening of our brass necks, plus being easier to run through the die set to just neck size or better yet, to set headspace at Zero. Cases done this way will last many, many reloadings if pressures or powder charges are kept to sane limits. Most 17 barrels are 10 twist for 20 grain bullets, 9 twist for the 25 grain but either one can work just fine with correct powder charges, those being for accuracy and not over pressure HOT loads. The 17-222 is one of the best 17's, especially when loaded with VV 130 or VV 133 powder. BTW - PD's and coyotes hate 17's..

GC45

I have form dies to form the 17 Ackley Improved Bee from the .218 Bee.

There are 2 forming dies and a trim die.