Adding a Sprue Plate Handle to Accurate Molds

So I've got two 4-cavity Accurate molds and so far I have been whacking the sprue plate with a wooden mallet every time. It works but it feels... like it might be less than optimal.

I made the assumption that they would be compatible with Lee sprue plate handles since they also use the regular Lee handles, and I managed to find some for sale:
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-p...od-handle-34x5
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-p...56-sprue-lever

They seem to sell quite a few "service parts" for Lee molds as well, including bolts and such. Does anybody know what bolts I need to buy?

I have never cast with an Accurate mold, but I have with Lyman four cavity molds, so here goes.

Next time you have your mold up to temp, try twisting the sprueplate with a gloved hand. I use plain old cheap leather driving gloves when I cast. You aren't holding the sprue plate or mold long enough for the heat to transfer through and burn you.

This technique works very well with two cavity molds, and it did okay with the one four cavity I tried it with.

You can't start twisting on a cold mold, but once it is hot enough it will speed your production immensely. I usually cut the sprue as within a second or two of the sprue puddle changing color.

I'm not the only one doing this, there was quite a discussion about it several years ago. It may work for you, it may not. I don't like hitting my molds either.

Good Luck,

Robert

Here you go:

SPRUE PIVOT BOLT. SC1163
https://leeprecision.com/sprue-pivot-bolt.html

1/4X28 STD HEX NUT
https://leeprecision.com/1-4x28-std-hex-nut.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Valley-Shooter

Here you go:

SPRUE PIVOT BOLT. SC1163
https://leeprecision.com/sprue-pivot-bolt.html

1/4X28 STD HEX NUT
https://leeprecision.com/1-4x28-std-hex-nut.html

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Thank you, that's exactly the information I was needing! Now I just need to wait for the sprue pivot bolt to be in-stock somewhere...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mk42gunner

I have never cast with an Accurate mold, but I have with Lyman four cavity molds, so here goes.

Next time you have your mold up to temp, try twisting the sprueplate with a gloved hand. I use plain old cheap leather driving gloves when I cast. You aren't holding the sprue plate or mold long enough for the heat to transfer through and burn you.

This technique works very well with two cavity molds, and it did okay with the one four cavity I tried it with.

You can't start twisting on a cold mold, but once it is hot enough it will speed your production immensely. I usually cut the sprue as within a second or two of the sprue puddle changing color.

I'm not the only one doing this, there was quite a discussion about it several years ago. It may work for you, it may not. I don't like hitting my molds either.

Good Luck,

Robert

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I will give that a shot, I cast in gloves too. I have never given that little time for the sprue to solidify, but I'm certainly not against trying that technique. Thank you for the tip. :-)

I would like to see a pic if you put this lever on!

Got me to thinking I might do this to one of my NOE’s.


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Quote:

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Originally Posted by Daekar

So I've got two 4-cavity Accurate molds and so far I have been whacking the sprue plate with a wooden mallet every time. It works but it feels... like it might be less than optimal.

I made the assumption that they would be compatible with Lee sprue plate handles since they also use the regular Lee handles, and I managed to find some for sale:
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-p...od-handle-34x5
https://www.titanreloading.com/lee-p...56-sprue-lever

They seem to sell quite a few "service parts" for Lee molds as well, including bolts and such. Does anybody know what bolts I need to buy?

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I've found wooden hammers to be too hard. I switched over to a rawhide mallet and it made it so much more enjoyable.

Ove gloves work good too.

I used the sprue cutter handle from a Lee 6-cavity mold. Just used the larger of the 2-holes in the Accurate sprue plate. With the Lee handle on the sprue plate on the opposite end of the mold from the handles that you hold in your hand, you get the camming action of the Lee handle. I have to use my wooden knocking stick for the first coupl pours but once the mold heats up, no pounding is needed. I just used the screw that came off of the Lee mold. It's long enough to do the job.Attachment 303490

I use a rawhide mallet periodically but prefer to just twist the sprue with a gloved hand.

Take a look at the nicely machined steel Sprue Cutter Cam Lever from Rick at Kal Tool & Die (Red River Rick here on the Forum). I have a couple on 4-cavity Accurate molds and they work perfectly !

Attachment 303497

Here is the photo from the KAL website:

Attachment 303498

His mold handles are the very best available in my opinion !

Jerry

OK, this is more like it. Lee sprue plate handle.Attachment 303537 IAttachment 303537