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After using the Dillon 550 for my higher volume handgun reloading, I would like to separate the bullet seating & crimping operations for other handgun and maybe rifle cartridges. I would also like to use the same die set. I know I've read about how to go about doing this but I can't remember reading anything about how to preserve the die settings for the future.
Can anyone explain or point me to a thread that explains it?
Make a dummy round as a "bench standard" and insert the round on the ram. Lower the die onto the round. Lock everything down and you will be as close as possible.
The way I do it is, back off the crimp portion of my die by using a spacer washer. Seat the bullets. Then turn the seat plug up til it’s out is the way, remove the spacer, and crimp. That way I never have to set the crimp but I do have to set the bullet depth every time. That’s easy enough with a dummy cartridge.
The only cartridge I have to do this for is the 45 auto. I can’t get it to taper crimp to do without shaving lead. But a roll crimp into a proper crimp groove, I do both operations together. 44 spl/mag using 44-240-SWC or 44-250-KT, 30-30 using 31141, are examples of cartridges I load combined operations that give me no trouble.
RCBS tried a combined seat/Taper Crimp die back in the early 1990's. Didn't work worth a darn. Shaved lead every time.
Ya just can't shove a lead bullet into a case while you're squeezing the case mouth straight into the bullet.
Do it Bazoo's way.
I just have 2-4 die sets for every handgun caliber.
Progressive gets a separate T/C die for every cartridge.
Single stage gets separate T/C for Auto cartridges, seat/ roll crimp for revolver.
There just seemed to be a whole lot of low priced RCBS die sets at GunShows back in the 1990's.
Or buy a second seat/crimp die (aka factory crimp die) and crimp after seating if you have room on your head for another die.
I did just that today when I set up to load some .475 L.Quote:
Originally Posted by Tar Heel
I've done this several times to get a steel size die. I'm pretty well set up with extra seat/crimp dies from these sets. Just didn't want to acquire a bunch of extra die sets for cartridges I don't load often. The .475 is one I don't want to buy an extra set of dies. It would probably have to be a NEW one.Quote:
Originally Posted by Minerat
I have used a thick washer, very similar to the one you get with RCBS44 spcl/ 44 mag dies. I set the die to crimp the.put the washer under the die and adjust the seating depth. Then when you get done seating just remove the ring and back the seating stem out and do the crimp step.
If I'm using the progressive I set the die up on a RC then add rings under the die when I move it back to the progressive for seating. Then all you have to do is move the die to the single stage back off the stem and crimp.
If you are trying to do this with one die, in my opinion, you will need to measure and take written notes or use a micrometer seating stem with repeatable settings.Quote:
I know I've read about how to go about doing this but I can't remember reading anything about how to preserve the die settings for the future.
The easy way is to have two dies, one for seating and one for crimping.
I will state that I only go the two step seat and crimp way if I have unsurmountable problems doing it in one step with one die.
Robert
I leave my crimp die adjusted and with the lock-ring locked in place for applying a proper crimp .
1.) Seat boolits first , place a spacer under the lock ring between ring and press frame , this raises the die and does not allow a crimp . Make sure your spacer is thick enough so crimping part of die is clear of case . No crimp ...you just want to seat boolit. Tighten die with spacer in place .
2.) Set the boolit seating stem with a dummy cartridge ...made up for this job . Insert the dummy and lower the stem untill it touches boolit firmly .
3.) With spacer under lock ring (no crimp) and seating stem set with dummy ... seat all boolits .
Crimping Boolits
1.) Remove spacer from under lock ring and screw die down fully to contact press .
2.) Back out seating stem so it does not contact boolit during crimping .
3.) Crimp all boolits ...
There you go ...one seating/crimping die , one thick spacer , one dummy round .
Getting two dies is easier but I've done the seating / crimpind two step shuffle for 50 years so it doesn't bother me .
And too cheap to buy anything I don't absolutely need .
Gary
[QUOTE=Bazoo;5266551]The way I do it is, back off the crimp portion of my die by using a spacer washer. Seat the bullets. Then turn the seat plug up til it’s out is the way, remove the spacer, and crimp. That way I never have to set the crimp but I do have to set the bullet depth every time. That’s easy enough with a dummy cartridge.
What he said.^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
It’s well worth the money to buy another die for either seating or crimping.
All my pistol and revolver bullets are “normal” size. I use a Lee FCD for most. I have a Dillon die set with extra seating die for .38/.357. At any rate, ALL of my pistol dies have separate seating and crimping dies. I have two Dillon 550’s, one set for large primer and one for small primers. That way, when I change calibers the dies remain as they were in the tool heads. Easy/Peasy!
Dale53
go the 2 die route here .. seat and then crimp. Have old CH Tool & Die
taper crimp dies 9mm / 45acp / 223 / 308
-Rock
I'm a separate seat, then crimp fan. And taper crimp whenever I can.
My issue with the problems of roll crimping is when mass producing handgun ammo that I don't bother to trim.
I am not sure I understand the question, you would like to separate the seat and crimp operations and use the same die set. Does the die set have a seat die and a crimp die? If so, that’s simple.Quote:
I would like to separate the bullet seating & crimping operations for other handgun and maybe rifle cartridges. I would also like to use the same die set. I know I've read about how to go about doing this but I can't remember reading anything about how to preserve the die settings for the future.
If not, that means you will have to adjust the crimp up and the seater down, to seat, then the seater up and the body down, for crimp.
I suppose you could do that with witness marks or this would make it simple, repeatable and precise.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ssw-AbNH7N4
I most definitely am not going to that extreme. I think that if I use a spacer washer under the seat/crimp die to seat. Seat all the boolits to the desired OAL. Then retract the seater and remove the spacer to return to the predetermined crimp setting. I can adjust the seater on later load sessions by using a sample dummy cartridge. Or even resetting a different OAL, it is not that difficult to sneak up on an OAL.
I'm going to try it on some .45 Colt loads using a washer from an old .38/.357 die set. I guess I'll find out if I'm still out in left field.