Wanting to setup my MP mold today. Never had one so please help
So I read this https://www.mp-molds.com/tipstricks/...-point-moulds/
I also read some threads on this site. One thing I did see which was a discrepancy was someone said to take the mold apart when you heat cycle it. I do plan to bake mine in the oven at 400 degrees. Do I take it apart or leave it together? Also the molds came with 4 different pin versions...So it says to have the pins inserted when you heat cycle it. Does it matter which pins?
Also my mold did not come with any lube like it was suppose to. Can I use 2 stroke oil like in other molds?
Wanting to setup my MP mold today. Never had one so please help
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Stopsign32v
So I have a question...We are talking about heat cycling (AKA patina)
The mold today looks absolutely no different than when it was new. When I hear "patina" I think a different look. Should it look different?
You won’t notice the initial patina but if you were to compare a side by side new mold to heat cycled mold you’d see a difference in the tint. The new molds almost have a white brass color where, provided mold is clean and dry, after the first heat cycle you’ll start to see it darkening (had the luck to have two molds arrive within a week of each other so I tested this but sadly lost the photos). As you start to cast with it it will continue to darken over time to a point and stay there.
To the earlier post, to each their own. I love my iron HG and Lyman/ideal molds and it’s true they just work but if you want HP/HB bullets your better off going the brass route than aluminum in my opinion and brass molds need a little different care. Iron molds need consistent maintenance over time (keeping clean and oiled) so it’s not much different. Try them all if you can and pick what’s best for you, there is no right or wrong choice I don’t think, just personal preference.