Lead tip for 224

I'm using the Corbin 224 kit. I'm trying to figure out how to get the right mix of the lead weight, point forming and lead-tip forming to get a nice tip.

So far, I've used too little lead and the lead-tip forming die does nothing (not surprising)
I've had too much and the bullet gets a bulge and won't load correctly.
I've had a few that look really nice, but I didn't have everything dialed in, so I can't reproduce it.

I'm about to use the core swaging die to make a bunch of slightly different weighted cores and try them out. However, do I need to adjust the point forming die? Should I leave a bigger whole in the nose? How much bigger. How much lead should be pushed out? What is too much?

I think the error of your ways is in using the .22 casings for a jacket. They are all different lengths and as such, even with a core that is consistent, a case that is .010" longer will not allow enough lead to stick out to form the tip, and one that is .010" shorter will allow too much to stick out. Obviously, you get very good results when you use a commercial jacket since they are all the same length every time. That is why most people make a hollow point open tip bullet when working with spent rimfire cases.

You will need to adjust the point forming die. Obviously, if no lead is coming out of your tip, you will need to adjust the die down to cause more lead to extrude from the tip. If too much lead is coming out of the tip, the die needs to be adjusted up.

If you have a lathe and a collet for it you could machine each rim fire jacket to be the exact same length which should fix your problem. A lot of work however but if you can't get commercial jackets, might be the only way to do what you need. That, or sort the jackets by length and make them in smaller batches so you get the kind of point you are looking for.

When I was playing around with this, I seated the cores in the jackets and then trimmed them to the same length in a lathe which made them all the same. If the seated bullets all have the same amount of lead in them and they are all trimmed to the same length, you will get very repeatable looking tips. You need not spend a lot of money for a lathe. There are some pretty inexpensive 7" swing mini lathes that will excel at this work. Hope this helps.

I was under the impression that a hollow point bullet and an open tip bullet were two distinctly different forms???

The sky is the limit. You can have an open tip bullet, an open tip hollow point, and everything in between.

Sleeping Dog:

What weight bullet are you targeting? These are 75.6 to 75.7 grains. I use 22LR as jacket source. Sort by headstamp, then sort by weight. All cores swaged for uniform weight; then sorted by 1/10th grain weight groups. I swage my cores into jackets using same jacket weight and same core weight for a group of bullets, which gives that top exposed lead the same diameter as the jacket at the top (lead exposed at top). I then nose form; adjusting to where the nose has that slight flat nose spot where the ejection pin is at - without extruding a tip. I then use the Corbin Lead Tipping die to put a final nice lead sharp tip - adjusting the Tipping die slightly until I get that perfect nose - then do the batch.


Attachment 277789


PS that ring at the base is a derivative of the jacket making process - that particular brand of 22LR brass leaves that indented rim when jackets are formed. That head stamp looks like a square box in a square box, not sure what brand it is; but I had several hundred in a small jar after sorting many thousands of 22LR cases by brand so I used them for these 75 Grain Bullets.

Enlighten me: how would an open tip (lead seated within jacket and jacket formed into an ogive ) be also a hollow point? I don't understand...

Open tip: lead seated in jacket bellow the mouth with a flat punch, then open tip formed
Hollow point: lead seated in jacket with a punch that leaves a depression in the core, point formed, depending on how much lead is in the jacket the lead will be exposed leaving a lead tip hollow point, or an open tip hollow point

I understand what you're saying, BUT, if lead is exposed beyond end of jacket then said bullet is no longer open tipped but rather a lead tip with (possibly) a hollow point. My understanding of 'open tip' describes a bullet with NO lead exposed beyond mouth of jacket AND the jacket formed into whatever ogive the point forming die describes; ie 3/4E 1E etc. thus leaving an open tip (in the jacket). At least that's the way it was taught to me. Now I suppose one could use a pointed 'inside the jacket' core seat punch and form a hollow cavity within the open tip but I'm not sure that style would serve any useful purpose. Not worth arguing about, though...

Mustang,
Very useful to get the range that works well. I was trying to get 52-55 grains.

I've been closing the tip too much, so too much would come out when I would go on the high side. Then I dropped it back and didn't get any. Then increased it and ended up with some nice tips, but they might buckle in order to make a smooth tip.

You will have to trim the case to get a soft point at the weight you want. A Lee case trimer with a 3/16'' bolt from toggle bolt cut to length will trim the case. Chuck the reamer in a drill and trim a case or two down .100 . You will have to trim the 3/16'' bolt down with a grinder. The .100 is a guess. This is all trial and error till you get what you want. You will make a whole bunch of bullets that are just a touch off what you want. Take good notes and make adjustments where needed.

I use the above method on 22 mag cases to make 77gn hollow points with my corbin dies.

One could make the 52 to 55 Grain with a lead tip (similar to my post #5 above) by using 22 Short cases to form shorter jackets. Finding 22 shorts could be a long duration effort. I probably have a bag of ~200 I have collected over ten years sorting through the range .22 brass I pick up. have kept them thinking I would use them for making .22 Remington Jet 40 grain bullets one day

Good afternoon. Dear society. I am new to this forum. Besides. to write something in English - I use Google Translate. But I will take the courage to share my experience in the formation of a lead bullet nose.
I use Dave Corbin's equipment. And I tried for a long time to follow the instructions to play the lead noses on the bullets at any time when I needed it. I did not succeed. So far I have not intuitively found a few simple steps that help to make a good enough lead nose for heavy bullets.

I use a shell for bullets from a bullet casing 22 lr. I sort the shell only by weight. Therefore, it has a slightly different length. It does not prevent me from getting a decent result. My bullets for 69 grains and even 75 are liked by me and those shooters for whom I also make bullets.
So ... I put the core in the shell as it is usually done. At a weight of 75 grains, the core material will not even fit in the shell. A little lead will remain above the edge of the shell. Therefore, to make the pressure during this operation significant - a bad idea. In this case, I increase the pressure to the extent that the core does not begin to flow past the internal shock. This is a simple tool for measuring the required pressure. True?)))

The next step is to form a point. It is key in my opinion for the formation of a beautiful nose. How to guess how much you need to lower the internal blow? I realized that I needed two conditions. The workpiece under the ball should be sufficiently lubricated to move easily in the forming matrix. I gradually lower the internal blow and check the formation of the point several times. Until the ball takes a good shape with a fully formed nose. The biggest problem is that when the ball is pushed out of the matrix, the tip of the nose can be destroyed. If the oil on the ball was not enough and it leaves the die with great effort. This is probably a trivial thing. But it took me a while to get the right feeling on the press handle. The process is going well or everything is bad.

At this stage, I see no reason that small differences in the length of the shell in any way interfere with the formation of a beautiful nose of the bullet. Yes. The size of a lead nose can differ a little on bullets. For the reason that there are differences in length of a cover. But the weight and total length of the balls do not differ significantly.
The next step is to complete the formation of the nose of our ball. I just put it in the matrix. I move the press handle to the lowest position. And after that I start to twist down an internal blow. Until I feel a tangible resistance to the force of my hand. For me, this is the simplest and most accurate method to find the right adjustment of the matrix that forms the lead nose of the bullet in its final form.
I apologize to the company for possible errors in my messages.

In lieu of a lathe, Corbin makes a trim die. It might help to give you consistent length jackets. Removes another variable.