I've heard some people have done this.
Wondering if there is someplace with more information about it.
Want to use it for rifle case only.
For cast only????
How to do it????
Draw backs???
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I've heard some people have done this.
Wondering if there is someplace with more information about it.
Want to use it for rifle case only.
For cast only????
How to do it????
Draw backs???
I remember some threads about doing this a few years ago, maybe you can find them with a search or someone that has actually done it may see this thread.
1. If I were to do this, I think it would be for low velocity/ pressure cast loads only.
2. From what I remember from the threads and pre-internet reading, it is pretty simple to do. A drill bit for the main body of the 209 primer (around ¼"), then using a slightly larger drill to create the rim recess for the primer.
Others have converted Berdan brass to use regular Boxer type primers, skipping the shotgun primer totally.
Good luck,
Robert
I've drilled out boxer brass for shooting powderless wax/polyethylene bullets
I used a "C" sized drill bit, followed by a 1/2" bit to countersink. The hard part was the depth of the countersink, so that when properly seated the face of the primer is at the correct place.
I learned there are different diameter 209 primers, the "C" bit was for the RIO type.
I have done some for a 7.62x54. I just drilled for the 209 then counter sunk with an end mill. I don't remember the sizes but I did it on a mini lathe which makes the depth for the 209 rim easy. I have shot normal cast boolit loads but not factory pressure loads yet. I believe the 209 primer will take as much pressure as any other primer.
This reminded me of a thread from another forum a couple months back...
You might find it informative/interesting:
M4Carbine.net - "45 Science" Success. Created from Shotgun Shell.
I was given bags of Berdan brass and hate to sell them for scap value. I also have over 20k 209’s and do not shoot a lot of trap anymore. I have a lathe and drill press.
So this is interesting. Might be ok for moderate cast loads?
The primer inside the sleeve is supposed to be a LPP primer. Why not drill and swage for LPP?Quote:
Originally Posted by dverna
A. 209 primers don't have an anvil like LPP do, unreliable firing without one.Quote:
Originally Posted by BrassMagnet
B. How would you propose to extract the cup without setting it off?
This was done for the old Kynach (spelling) 577/450 cartridges.
most shotshells that ive ever reloaded run between about 9000-11000 psi according to the load data that ive ever used. I'm no expert but dont mild metallic cartridges say for example 38spl run about 18000 psi.
You can also convert berdan cases for standard LR or LP primers, there is probably a YouTube on this somewhere. Shotgun primers, the standard 209's do have and anvil inside the the assembly, no problem firing when installed in any hole that fits.
I have done this with Berdan .303 Brit cases but I trim and size them for shot loads in 44 Magnum . The rim must be thinned and made smaller in Diameter I do the work on a mini lathe .
I am happy with how they work cases are cut just shorter then cylinder length (they will not work in no revolvers) Then fireformed . The cases are size in a Lee FDC 209 primer tapped in , powder charge , a heavy cardboard wad of 7/16" diameter is seated on powder , Then I wrap two wraps of wax paper around a dowel fold the excess over dowel bottom and seat on over powder wad. Next I add shot until short of top fold extra wax paper on shot place and seat thin 7/16" cardboard wad on on top . It takes a couple pushed with dowel to get shot to fully expand wax paper sleeve before setting top wad ,top wad is glued in place .
The wax paper keeps the shot from leading the rifling but is shredded by rifling so patterns are good . I get .4 oz or 180 grains of #9 shot in the case .
I settled on 7 grains Green Dot for a powder charge I do not know the velocity however they will go though both sides of a steel coffee can at 20 feet.