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I have a rifle with scope mount filler screws that seem locktighted. Two came loose two didn't.
Can the screws be heated- should they be heated- to get loose? Will heat ruin blueing? Will a high heat heat gun, the paint stripping kind, get warm enough?
Thank You
Ted
I have used many ways to heat the screws to get them out, and none have affected the blueing. The most efficient way,I have found, is to use a soldering iron. You can put the tip right on the screw. Only heat until the screw loosens. A heat gun will get it hot enough, but you are also heating anything that is near the screw. If you use care this will work. I have also used a plain hair dryer. This gets it hot enough, but takes a little longer. Since 2 of your screws have already come out, you should not need much.
I'll back him up, the soldering gun works. If it still does not loosen you can tap the screw driver with a hammer and try slight tightening, when it's hot, then loosening, should crack the threads loose.
Just don't tighten it until it loosens then back it off a quarter turn[emoji39]
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Weller 250 Watt soldering iron. Clean and tin the tip of the iron before heating the screw head..
The slide hammer and the impact driver work well, but you gotta be careful or you will break the screw off. Soldering iron is safer.
https://i.imgur.com/8uYwKcY.jpg
Did you try putting Kroil on them and letting them soak overnight?
Any body EVER have success with Kroil overcoming Loc-Tite? No controversy intended, but as a playground installer, Loc-Tite was used as a thread sealer for stainless hardware screwed into cast aluminum parts.
I have tried kroil with no joy.
just as wheelguns says, a soldering iron.
when its time to replace them, use never-seize. i do that with my rifles (sights, scope bases and mounts). but if you just have it loctited use the purple loctite.
He is not sure that Loctite was used, only guessing!Quote:
Originally Posted by William Yanda
If you go with the heat gun, it does heat everything. Hit just the screws with a shot of WD-40 or PB Blaster when hot and they will shrink slightly.
I’m in the soldering iron group as well. Like others said, it only heats the screw. I’ve had some release really quick others took some time. It depends on how much loc-tite was used.
I put the Allen wrench/screwdriver bit in the screw, apply pressure and apply heat (soldering iron, fine tipped propane torch) to the driver, if it is thread locking compound the heat through the driver should break the bond.
Methylated spirits.
Alcohol seems to kill Loctite.
Seems to wreck things I’ve stuck together with Loctite.
Or super glue.
In my experience, you'll never get SS fasteners out of threaded aluminum in a million years without a plasma cutter...Loctite or no Loctite.Quote:
Originally Posted by William Yanda
Soldering iron seems to work well for Loctited fasteners. I use a big copper one that you "charge up" with a propane torch. Get it rippin hot and then apply to the screw head. The copper is so conductive that it dumps heat into the fastener fast, which is what you want, I believe. With an electric soldering gun, you don't have that huge heat sink/thermal mass, so it's like trying to weld with a Bic lighter.
If they have been glued in with anything you should be able to see some residue on the screws that came out. If they look clean I'd soak them in Kroil for a while.
i was taking the rear sight off of my 1898 spr armory. the screws wouldn't turn, so i got a drop or two of kroil on them. waited about 20 minutes and they still wouldn't turn. i put a drop or two of kroil on them and i left. the next day, the screws were tight, so a drop or two of kroil and i left. it took me 6 or 7 days and 12-14 drops of kroil till the screws came out(it was like i finger tighten them).
didn't the old guys use fingernail polish? i seem to remember they did?
JSnover is correct. The screws that are already out should give you a clue as to why the others are stuck and what to do.
Decades ago I bought a propane pencil torch, it throws a fine pin point blue flame, heats just the head of a 6-48 screw and breaks them loose real nice, including with red locktite. Makes a great sight removal tool in my shop. I would buy another one if I could find one like it.
You can find one if you look in the section with electronics repairs. They are used to heat shrink tubing for butt connectors and light soldering.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapier
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Harbor Freight has workable butane pen torches for not much.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapier
Lock-Tite comes in several formulas, from not real hard to near concrete, so the required heat to soften them varies quite a bit but when heated they ALL soften eventually.
BINGO! The key is to give it time, no matter what method you use. I've broken screws and screwdrivers because I thought this thing needed to come out Right Now Today.
One thing the old timers used was was iodine, if I recall (I could be mistaken). It was considered permanent, as it would cause the threads to rust.
Quote:
Originally Posted by JSnover
i have had a stroke(right arm/leg kaput) and the one thing i have learned is patience. "right now today" should have been my method[smilie=l:!!!
and when i am really stuck, i take it to a professional.
the rem m14 peep sight is put on due to my gunsmith.
https://i.imgur.com/SyZjktV.jpg
when i first got the peep sight, it was included with two screws. i put the gun in my gunrest and i tried to remove two screws on the rifle. nope, kroil it is. it took me 2-3 days to get the one out. it took me 2 or 3 days (again) until i broke the screw. crud!!!(i can't say what i did say, but it was along those lines[smilie=l:) well, i can easy out it, but i've never done one so small(it is either a 6x40 or 8x40 screw). and the way i see(before glasses) and with one arm(left), i ain't goin to drill it!!!!! so to the gunsmith, i go. i told him about the gun and he goes no problem. whip, bang, boom, its done.
now if the screw was broke back when i was 20ish yo, it would be screwed on like this:bigsmyl2:[smilie=l:
https://i.imgur.com/wlXDYuN.jpg
Wow. That second pic just hurts to look at.
An impact screwdriver can work wonders. The type you put à screw tip in and then hit it with a hammer. The impact forces the screwdriver to be forced into the screw so it doesn’t slip. At the same time the force acting on internal parts turns the screw to break it free. They work well and I think every shop should have one. There’s not really much to then, so they are not very expensive. Often you can use 1/4 inch drive sockets on them. They do come in handy.