Questions about Enco Codes

Buck, or another posted both a 20% discount and free shipping code's the other day.

I sent an almost $700 order in. lady sent a quote asking for an extra $100.50.

AND did NOT apply either code, charged $58.50 shipping. I wrote on top the letter Re: Codes etc and numbers that I got from here.

Order should be: $516.xx and free shipping. Instead she want's this extra $100.50 and was going to hold up my full order until it's rec'd.

I called, too busy on the phone Friday. Sent two e'mails. First one was before I realized the code's were not applied and told her to send the chuck, backing plate and enough to make $600 I'd sent in and hold the balance til my check gets there.

Then a few minutes later realized neither code had been applied and sent a correction about that. and asked for a reply asap. As they're open Sat. I expected to hear back but, haven't yet.

Have any of you had this problem? They were both dated the 20th as the deadline. Friday was the 20th.

IF she rejects these codes I might just take the three parts that I have to have and cancel the rest with that as my reason and see what happens next.

Anyone have suggestions?? I'd appreciate hearing anything you might have experienced. I'd also like to know where these codes can be found too.

Thanks much,

................Georgeld, The free shipping does not apply to anything that ships via truck, unless it specificly says it does.

You need to call them and get yourself on their mailing list for the monthly fliers. Also on their e-list. Various offers come quite often via e-mails. Thier previous flier has free shipping on several of thier vertical mills. Naturally this is shipped via truck. In this instance the shipping is free to the closest crossdock facility, and NOT to your doorstep. You gotta go fetch it unless you make other arrangements.

If their e-mail or flier doesn't list a free shipping code for the week or month, the simplist thing to do is to go to the Home Shop Machinist or Practical Machinist BB's and do a search (you have to be a member) for "Enco free shipping". These will usually be good for the month and will be for orders over $99. They do NOT include truck freight shipments.

As an aside, why are you ordering a chuck and backing plate instead of an intregal back chuck? Is the backing plate for a different chucK?

...................Buckshot

Buck:
Thanks for the nice reply. Sorry about the delay in getting back here. I've been tied up with an injured woman. Had a little accident at the range. Took a lady out shooting. Did wonderful with the Single Six and K38, NEF .38's and even .45 Colt NEF.

Asked if she'd like to try the Blackhawk I'd just got in 45 Colt. "Sure". She'd watched me shoot about 36 thru it so knew it was a kicker.

Damned if I didn't just tell her: "hold that sucker down so it don't hit you in the faceBOOMWHACK!!"

Wailed hell out of her forehead, lotta blood. Cut 1 1/8" to the skull, got it stopped and to the ER. Three + hrs later they were going to send her home when I told the guy best get that doc back in here that needs either stitching or butterfly.

Doc came in asked what kind of medical exp I had, am I dr, or what tells me that??" "just a lot of exp on myself for yrs" and showed a few scars. Turned a light on and took a better look. Spread it open and half inch wide of skull showed. "yes sir, I'm sorry, that does need to be sewn up" Took two under the skin with disolving type thread. gave me the left over thread. Put some super glue on it and sent us home. Did a nice job with me in her face watching. Had to tell her so.

Looked real good today noon when I sent her home 40 miles. Eyebrow to inch past the cut is a good bruise. Damn it! That's the first accident anyone of my guests have ever had, and shouldn't have happened. Sure was spooky! She was holding it right too. Guess just not enough pressure on it.
Reported it to the range board so they know where the bloody wrappers came from and I'm in the clear with them. Think she'll be ok and said she'd be ready to shoot it next time she comes to see me. maybe by then I'll have some light acp's ready. Fairly light load too. 19gr H110/250SWC.

Ok to the Enco questions:

Joyce called me the next day and apologized for over looking the code's on the header of my order letter and refigured it to less than what I'd sent. Both free shipping and 20% discount. SO, that helps over $100 worth.

Three way split order. Got the four boxes from NV today. UPS driver dropped the chuck in the truck. Guess he jumped pretty high when he dropped it. Busted the crate up, lost the pins and set screws. Said they were not in the trk. Hope he didn't drop 'em in my lawn.

I talked to Brian in C/S and he said the 4 jaw would not fit the 3 jaws backing plate, had to have it's own. That's why I ordered it. I'll check when I take it off.

SO far, I'm happy with what came. Two boxes to come yet. Atlanta and Ind.

Two more questions now. Jacobs chuck that came with the lathe has the pin broken off about half inch behind the chuck. What now? Is it press fit, or threaded??

Bought a 3/4" chuck with this stuff as half isn't big enough a lot of times and the price was good. Needs the pin for it. Press in. Shall I turn one, or order one? What's better??

Got it wired and running tonight finally. Was a major project running it across the bench behind the drawers without help, pleanty of blood there too, both arms skinned up a bunch. Fired it up an hour ago. So far the only question I have and haven't looked at the manual I printed out yet.

What about power cross feed? Damn, if it don't have power cross feed I sure don't want the thing at all. Though I need to look at the catalog and the manual yet. I just got in the house and this thing was beeping about having mail. So washed up and got online.

Bought two sticks of 1" A2, don't recall now just what the price was but, half or less of what I've been looking at and rejecting. That came, along with 1" and 1/2" alum and some smaller A2 for .17 rods.

I've joined up P/M, but, only been on there a couple of times so far. I don't know much about what's online for machinist stuff/forums. Appreciate a list of the better half dozen you guys know about.

Thanks much.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by georgeld

Buck:
Thanks for the nice reply.

Ok to the Enco questions:

Joyce called me the next day and apologized for over looking the code's on the header of my order letter and refigured it to less than what I'd sent. Both free shipping and 20% discount. SO, that helps over $100 worth.

I've never had a problem with Enco and everyone I've ever talked to (usually order via the net) has been very helpfull and courteous. In fact, I just called and ordered my milling machine this morning (9x42, 3 axis DRO, power table feed and step pully. I'll be putting a VFD on it). I spoke to Nedra and she was just as family as could be :-)

Three way split order. Got the four boxes from NV today. UPS driver dropped the chuck in the truck. Guess he jumped pretty high when he dropped it. Busted the crate up, lost the pins and set screws. Said they were not in the trk. Hope he didn't drop 'em in my lawn.

A couple years back I'd ordered a 12x18x3" granite surface plate (Free shipping!:-)) It was on the porch when I got home, with the box all tore to heck and gone. They'd apparently tossed in a double handfull of styro peanuts and all but a couple were long gone. Those few that remained were exceedingly FLAT and used up looking! One corner was damaged. Called Enco and no problem. Said to keep the broke one and shipped another.

The box on the new one was as used up and worn out as the previous, but at least it hadn't been skipped across the dock. I'd ordered a set of deep hole dial indicators, and due to my own stupidity in not knowing how they worked figured there were parts missing. Called Enco and they said they'd ship a replacement that day and would send a call tag for UPS to pickup the (supposedly ) incomplete one.

Before getting the new one I realized my problem and called Enco again to see about paying the to and from shipping for the new one and they said to not worry about it.

I talked to Brian in C/S and he said the 4 jaw would not fit the 3 jaws backing plate, had to have it's own. That's why I ordered it. I'll check when I take it off.

Possibly I forgot which chuck your lathe came with. It has the "D" series spindle nose, right? Usually you can get 4 jaw chucks with intrgal backs. These don't require a backing plate as the spindle mounting is machined inot the chuck body casting. At least the one for my LOO spindle nose is.

SO far, I'm happy with what came. Two boxes to come yet. Atlanta and Ind.

Two more questions now. Jacobs chuck that came with the lathe has the pin broken off about half inch behind the chuck. What now? Is it press fit, or threaded??

Pin? You mean the Morse taper is broke off? If so, buy a replacement. Usually on the body of a Jacobs chuck, below the sleeve it will have the "Jacobs Taper" number listed, like: JT3 or JT6. You just order a MT3 (or whatever your TS uses) with a JT3 chuck taper. If you open the chuck jaws wide open and look inside in the center of the bottom you should see a hole. The hole is for you to stick a punch into to drive out the taper mount.

If there is a hex hole in the bottom, then it means you have a threaded on chuck, which I seriously doubt you'll find in the TS position as it could screw off.

Bought a 3/4" chuck with this stuff as half isn't big enough a lot of times and the price was good. Needs the pin for it. Press in. Shall I turn one, or order one? What's better??

Buy one, and buy one made by Jacobs. Get a tanged back and not a threaded one for a drawbar. A lot of the Asian stuff can be very well made, but not always all and the chuck's concentricity in the tailstock quill is of extreme importance. The extra $6 to $8 it will cost is cheap piece of mind. Also, when putting the chucks on thier taper mounts you don't want them to casually part company. The night before you put them together, put the MT mount in the freezer. Next day, set the chuck base down on a light bulb until it's too hot to comfortably handle.

Have a good solid surface handy (like a good hunk of 1/2" thick steel) or the concrete floor if nothing else. In your gloved hand grab the chuck, stick the JT into the back of the chuck and immediately give it a good solid whack (back end of the MT) on the piece of steel. The Chuck's taper will be expanded and the JT on the Morse taper will be contracted. They'll shrink and expand together for a super tight fit. If for some reason you ever need to get them apart you'll have an essobee of a time, but you shouldn't ever have to.

What about power cross feed? Damn, if it don't have power cross feed I sure don't want the thing at all. Though I need to look at the catalog and the manual yet. I just got in the house and this thing was beeping about having mail. So washed up and got online.

Oh it'll have power crossfeed. A lathe that size HAS to have it. Read the manual, but I'm sure the control will be on the front of the apron. There will probably be a lever that goes in one position for longfeed and then another for crossfeeding.

I've joined up P/M, but, only been on there a couple of times so far. I don't know much about what's online for machinist stuff/forums. Appreciate a list of the better half dozen you guys know about.

Thanks much.

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http://metals.about.com/cs/metalwork...ject_plans.htm

http://www.smallparts.com/

http://www.lathes.co.uk/index.html

http://www.sc-c.com/metallathe/index.html

http://www.metalwebnews.com/

http://metalworking.com/

https://www.travers.com/Default.asp

http://www.onlinemetals.com/

http://shopswarf.orconhosting.net.nz/sindex.html

http://www.surpluscenter.com/

http://bbs.homeshopmachinist.net/

http://www.chaski.org/homemachinist/

http://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/index.php

Holy smokes what a reply!! Thank you sir!

Re: Enco 110-1340 mfg date 1994
Same as the 510-2535? I was told by Brian that day.

New, this came with a 7" 4 jaw. I haven't found one listed. Asking Brian which one I needed, he gave a number that was $400+, I told him NFW I could do that and asked if one for $169 would work, yes, but, it needs a backing plate to fit that lathe. Ok, which one? Ordered both and got them.

Face plate came today from Atlanta.
The chuck has a backing plate, I can see that behind the 3 jaw. Haven't messed with the chucks yet. 4 jaw new, sure is purty though!

Woke up at 4am dreaming about that hand crank feed. Read the whole manual I'd printed off. Only mention of crossfeed was something about the hand crank wheel or whatever term they used. I played with it today and still am not convinced it's powered crossfeed. Sure hope you're right. I'll get into it deeper as I get the things put back where they belong that had to be moved out in the trail/work space to install it and the wiring. Crippled in the back like I am it's not a two hour job like it should be, it's a weeks job for me. Only levers on the apron are off/on and the screw clamp.

Believe the chuck said Jacobs No. 34, I'll look tomorrow but, don't think I saw the taper. There's the pin hole, so it should drive out then.

Heat and freezing. Way back in the mid 60's, ex FIL had a D8 that wrecked an outer bearing on the drive sprocket in the dead of winter. He used a rosebud on the nut til it was pink, we slipped the bearing on the shaft that had set a week in -20 -25 blowing weather. THEN his 280 and my skinny kid 165 bounced on an 8ft cheater bar on his inch breaker bar until it wouldn't tighten any more.
Two yrs later CAT split three hydraulic sockets trying to get the nut off. That was something over a 4" nut about 3" thick. After splitting the third socket they called and asked him how he got it so tight. After learning the truth, they torched it off and he had to buy another nut too. CAT nuts don't come cheap even in the 60's. but, they did a full CAT rebuild on the whole dozer that cost thousands. I learned from that heat and cold are very effective.

I'll make note of those links. Way more than I'll ever be able to check out. Thanks again, do appreciate it.

Little play job I did today turned out just fine, am happy except the crossfeed. Will let you know once I learn the details and let you know.

..............3 jaw chucks have back plates. They have the scroll in there and having a removeable back is the only way it can be reached. An intregal back chuck is just shorter, so less stickout.

That #34 you saw on the chuck is the chuck size and not the JT taper. All the #34's are 1/2" max capacity. There is 34-02, 34-06 and 34-33 with the number following the dash being the JT size, as in -02 means a 2JT (2 Jacobs Taper). The 4th # 34 type has a designator that has something to do with it's sleeve. I thought you said you got one bigger then 1/2" capacity?

Either Enco or MSC had their 'N' series ball bearing Jacobs Super Chucks on sale, or did anyway. The 16N is the 1st over 1/2" capacity at 5/8. Then 18N and finally 20N at 3/4 & 1" capacity. Last year on E-Bay I got 2 brand new 11N (3/8 cap) chucks for cheap. One was $36 and the other was $44. Gotta have a spare :-)

I don't see a 13x40 with that number. They have a 13x40 that's 510-2585 (not 2535). There are 3 rods on the front of the bed. The top one is threaded and the half nuts used for threading, is the only thing run off of it. Below that should be a rod with a keyway in it. This provides power for longitudnal and cross feed. There should be a lever on the front of the apron that will let you select long or cross feed, and an 'off' position for manual use.

The bottom rod should be to operate a brake or clutch.

Is the manual in "Chinglish' :-) ?

................Buckshot

That's the wrong number I gave, it's the?? 510-2591 I think.

Only two rods, and the brake lever is not on there at all.
I got it figured out last night and it does have crossfeed and works. Lever on the gearbox runs it, far to the left and center. All the F/R gears work, haven't gotten into the thread gears yet. No lable on them. Need that pretty bad. The face plate on the bottom two levers for the gears is missing. THis thing has been tipped over and those two levers were broken off, face plate is bent and cracked some but, not broken up. Levers were brazed back well and work fine.

Believe it has a bad switch, or loose connections in the switch box as sometimes it don't start up when turned on. This one is mounted on back/top of the gearbox. Will take the cover off and insp. before long.

Had just faced a 1" rod last night and getting set to turn the length when company came in, so didn't get that far, but, I did turn about 6" off a short piece of 3/4" pipe and did well. Wanted to run a foot or more cut and check for taper. and how fine a cut it will hold full length.

Am just getting started with it and have a thousand other things taking my attention. Grass, girlfriends/another break down with the truck yesterday. Burned the fine plastic oil line from sender to gauge. On the first trip to the mtns since replacing the heads in fact. Sure glad I thought to put the tool box in before leaving.

Jambed a wad of teflon tape into the nut to stop it and came back home 25miles. Only lost one qt. Lucky it sprayed on the hot pipe! Am about to go out and replace that line now.

Is it normal for these gear boxes to make a lot of noise? Just loud, nothing clicking or anything. Would it quiet down some with a can of STP in there?

Chuck: got the broken piece out.
New one I got was $28 import, 3/4", about 5-6lbs. Called and ordered two JT3's for them yesterday.
10" face plate got in too.

Best get to work, it's already almost 2pm.
Thanks Buck,
George

Well, fixed the trk.

Ran a bunch of cuts on that rod at various speeds. man I'll tell you what in high gear that feed runs faster than I could ever turn the wheel by hand!

In the lowest gear and 440rpm it seems to feed faster than I think it should. but, don't seem to have any taper, and it all works ok. Am in bad need of relearning how to sharpen cutting bits though!! Sure not getting the 25 finish I used to with the Hardinge.
I'll pick it up again, have a decent wheel and light over it now. Will just take practice.

I sure appreciate all your help and advice.

"Is it normal for these gear boxes to make a lot of noise? Just loud, nothing clicking or anything. Would it quiet down some with a can of STP in there?"

You don't want to run any STP in there. Just use wha the manual calls for. Probably a 10wt non detergent oil. I'm assuming you're talking about the headstock gears? If they're straight cut they'll howl some if loaded. Thinking back to my sports car days (British. TR3, TR 4A-IRS, and GT-6+) and any others of the type with their straight cut reverse gears. They sounded like an air raid siren :-)

"In the lowest gear and 440rpm it seems to feed faster than I think it should. but, don't seem to have any taper, and it all works ok."

You should have a back gear that will give you somewhere between 40 to 70 spindle RPM.

"Am in bad need of relearning how to sharpen cutting bits though!! Sure not getting the 25 finish I used to with the Hardinge.

There are many sources around with illustrations and stuff for grinding HSS bits. Get the South Bend book, "How to Run a Lathe", as it has the info and a wealth of other stuff. Remember too that different steels and non-ferrous metals will cut different. Leaded steels can give a reflective finish. Merchant stock may be impossible to get a decent finish on, without grinding. Low carbon 1018-1020 will be a problem also, but at least it's consistant from end to end.

Common steel pipe (like water pipe) can be pretty crappy stuff. Remember too that materials like to run past the tool bit within a range of IPM speeds. You can download a chart listing materials, their OD's and the spindle rpms used to give the correct IPM speeds.

Don't forget cutting oil! That can make a big difference in your finish, and will also eliminate a lot of 'welding and cratering' of your tool bit.

.................Buckshot

Buckshot said:
"In fact, I just called and ordered my milling machine this morning (9x42, 3 axis DRO, power table feed and step pully. I'll be putting a VFD on it)."

I know one boolit mould that will be very happy to hear about the milling machine!
Tony

Ok, I'll pass on the STP. Just mentioned it as we ran a can in all the gear boxes on the road trucks and it sure quieted them down. Can in the front axle's too and never had a bearing fail in almost a million miles o nthe same bearings. In the trailer axles too.

They just roar, loud enough I have to turn my hearing aids off.

While just playing, the finish don't matter much.
I used to grind all the drills and tools, many yrs ago. Some of the parts I turned on the Hardinge had .0002"+- tol. That should give you an idea of what I used to be capable of. This machine's not that good, doubtful I am now either. Too many miles and yrs ago.

Yes, it goes down to 70, max 2000rpm. Plenty of choice for my needs.

Last of the Enco order showed up today, some tool bits and holder short yet. Need to get my list out to compare. All the stuff seems to be good quality. I'm happy with that part of it.

Thank you again.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by AnthonyB

Buckshot said:
"In fact, I just called and ordered my milling machine this morning (9x42, 3 axis DRO, power table feed and step pully. I'll be putting a VFD on it)."

I know one boolit mould that will be very happy to hear about the milling machine!
Tony

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..............Yup! :-) Looking at 10 days/2 weeks for delivery at this point. I'll be ordering a VFD for it tomorrow so besides cleaning it up I'll have some sparktrician work to do. Doing that mould I'll also be able to use my new rotary table. Well, I've had it almost a year now but have only opened the box to look at it.

I should have put that $50 down payment in a CD. I might be rich by now, ha!

.................Buckshot

Buck:
Finally got the Enco lined up and running well.

Was tapering the cut. Never made those adjustments, so was a challenge and frustrating. Sometimes simple stuff gets the best of me. I sure did the first session. had it down to .014", then went the wrong way and gave up the battle at four hours and .057".

Put it off over the weekend with other things going on. Yesterday: .001"/12" cut, Today got it down to .0005" on 34" cut. Just may leave it alone now until I'm more confident.

I need to pick up a threading dial for it now. Any suggestions?

Got a nice new roof on last week, and trip to Denver too. Great 4th w/GF and family, other friends etc.

Lady that got whacked by the .45 Colt a couple weeks ago wants to give it another try Sat. Told her I'd work with her and some lighter loads to get her built up to it first. Need to load up some ACP's for it's extra cyl this week. All I have are RN jackets. Can I load 250 SWC's in ACP cases without being too long?

OR should I just load 100 or so plinkers with Red Dot in Colt cases?? may not have that many empty. Am wanting to use the ACP cases (six gallons of steel) for light stuff so I don't get 'em mixed up mostly. That's why I got the combo gun.

Thanks again, have a great week.

[QUOTE=georgeld;362604]Buck:
Finally got the Enco lined up and running well.
I need to pick up a threading dial for it now. Any suggestions?

[QUOTE]

..............Make your own :-)

http://www.fototime.com/2B5359DA5AC5774/standard.jpghttp://www.fototime.com/E96B6C4230D9156/standard.jpg

I had a threading dial for my lathe when I got it, but it was small and kind of hiding down there off the end of the apron. In fact this is the very first 'Real' thing I made on the lathe. I used a piece of aluminum and a bit of black gas pipe. The pipe was turned and then fire blued. The Logan thread dial has straight cut gear teeth so it leans as to allow the teeth to mesh with the leadescrew. BTW, that trashy washer handle is gone :-) It has a neat knurled aluminum knob now.

I bought a gear with the teeth atthe same inclination as the leadescrew so I could have it straight up and down. At the time, the mill portion of my old *** lathe -mill combo still worked so I plunged through the body and welded in a 1/2" OD piece I'd drilled through to take the bolt I was going to use to mount it (5/16-18 I think).

http://www.fototime.com/358E1CBF55A374B/standard.jpg

I used a piece of .250" W-1 for the gear and clockface to ride on as an axle that turns in bronze bushings. I doubt the bushings are really required, but I had them. You DO need a thrust surface on the bottom for the gear to ride against. The clock face is 2x as large as the stock one and it sits up high and is very easy to see. I used a dental burr in my Dremel to put in the numbers and lines.

Once you have the gear you should be able to knock one of these out in an afternoon.

..................Buckshot

Thats slick Rick:

How about some dimensions for the H of it? Not the gear, just the dial, housing etc to get an idea. Seems like the dial at work was about 2" dia. But, set down low too.

Does this tilt off and on the screw as needed like it looks?

I haven't figured the threading gears out yet. Slowest set is good for turning (117 TPI) and using the RPM of headstock to regulate it.

Even the next gear faster is WAAAAYY too damn fast to control the feed. Fastest gears I can barely catch the carraige as it whips past. Could sure destroy things in two seconds. Never seen a feed run that fast. At least five or ten times as fast as I could possibly crank the wheel by hand if trying.

THink there's something wrong? I'm wondering.

Glad you posted this project as I'm starting to run out of money again. Month today and I've blown $5000 on guns, tools, junk, some other things I thought I wanted/needed. BUT: the other $4000 went for a new 50 yr roof, stainless flashing and valleys, new alum 5" gutters and big downspouts which were put on today. Jobs are done, now I'm doing George's personal touchup's on things as I'm much more particular than contractors are. Sure is nice having the place paid for. Just swells my head when I think of that after so many yrs of fighting that battle.

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This looks like a nice project. I've copied it by hand onto paper and will study it next to the lathe and make a casting of the screw. Just got a hunk of cerrosafe. Just might be the first casting with that stuff. Once the gear is bought, it can be reused. Going to be handy having it.

I have a dozen or more pcs of bronze bushing from a brass barrel I was digging thru months ago. Somewhere I even have a 6" sq pc of 1/4" copper plate that would make a real purty dial, or some stainless too.

Thank you again sir.

[QUOTE=georgeld;363903]Thats slick Rick:

How about some dimensions for the H of it? Not the gear, just the dial, housing etc to get an idea. Seems like the dial at work was about 2" dia. But, set down low too.



Does this tilt off and on the screw as needed like it looks?



I haven't figured the threading gears out yet. Slowest set is good for turning (117 TPI) and using the RPM of headstock to regulate it.

Threading is done while in backgear, which is much slower then direct. The RPM of the headstock (do you mean spindle) is immaterial as the QC box (geared off the spindle) runs the leadescrew in the correct relationship to provide the TPI you have the QC box set at. The half nuts engage the leadescrew to move the carriage.

The leadescrew on my Logan is 8 tpi. If I were threading 32 tpi the leadescrew (with halfnuts engaged) would advance the carriage down the bed 1/32" per spindle revolution. If the spindle were turning at 100 rpm, the carriage would move 3.125" in 1 minute.

Even the next gear faster is WAAAAYY too damn fast to control the feed. Fastest gears I can barely catch the carraige as it whips past. Could sure destroy things in two seconds. Never seen a feed run that fast. At least five or ten times as fast as I could possibly crank the wheel by hand if trying.

THink there's something wrong? I'm wondering.

The fastest longitudnal feed for my lathe as it's set up with a 24 tooth stud gear, is .050" per spindle revolution. At 600 rpm the leadescrew would move the carriage 30" in one minute. That's fairly fast. Swapping the 48 tooth gear into the stud position naturally doubles that. My slowest feed is 0.0014" per spindle revolution. Are you sure the headstock gearing is set up correctly?

I also have to ask, you're moving the carriage via the clutch on the apron, and NOT the half nuts on the apron, right? The apron uses a gear reduction inside to give you the various longitudnal feeds on the chart. Ditto on the half nuts, except they have no gear reduction (except for the QC box, and the fact you're supposed to be in backgear) and operate directly off the leadescrew.

QUOTE]

What does the man-u-el say?

................Buckshot

Oh man, I've been busy with other things. Moving vehicles the new neighbors don't like and send the cops to talk to me about 'em (off to a good start for a relationship with me) shooting a few p/dogs, girl friends, fixing the new gutters, washing windows, more girl friends etc. Sorry it's been nearly a week since you posted this and I'm just gettng to it.

It's obvious I'm doing something wrong and need to play with the thing a lot more to figure things out. May go visit a friend down the street and get him to refresh my memory. Just been too many yrs ago since I was around a lathe. Forty four yrs this summer. Long time to mess with a guys memory on such technical things.

Manual isn't very clear on a lot of things. Neither is the language. Whoever wrote it, is obviosly not a machinist either, just a typist with a bare eddication of English. None of this helps much.

High gear about 600rpm the apron runs about three FEET per second. Slowest gear 117 turns per inch, and the thread markings are missing from the front of the machine, as are the gear speeds. Only the gear A-G or H, and 1 -8 are visible. THe speeds are clear on the gear box, that's about all that's clear on the machine itself.

Thanks much Rick, I'll be back to it and you when I can get there, then post more when I am. by the time evening rolls around I'm too worn out to mess with it. But, need to make a few things, and more coming up. Same deal, I need to weld the legs on that lead press yet too. These gutters are a PITA with all the other interuptions. I sure had more free time when I was working for a living. Retirements not as they promised, that's for sure.