Any pros and cons using cheddite 20 gauge hulls with blackpowder?will be using fiber wads.found a good deal for 100 skived and primed hulls
Printable View
Any pros and cons using cheddite 20 gauge hulls with blackpowder?will be using fiber wads.found a good deal for 100 skived and primed hulls
The general con I see in other posts and in some manuals is the plastic won't hold up well to the higher heat of black powder. If it's a good deal, that may not be as much of a concern to you. Having not used BP and plastic hulls myself, I don't know whether you'll expect a one and done or just reduced life over smokeless.
I have three firings through a couple of shells now. Only one had a deep burn in it but it wasn’t all the way through. The rest look great.
Here is a good watch for you. It’s a guy loading up hulls several times with black powder...
https://youtu.be/cO5jCNLHTOk
Here was the burn I was referring to. I should have kept loading it,
https://i.imgur.com/s6LoIP5.jpg
I just started the project a few weeks ago to work up a load for turkey hunting.
My hot glued in shot cards...
https://i.imgur.com/DjKc4K8.jpg
My first try roll crimping with a quad pin roller...
https://i.imgur.com/GKqhYG9.jpg
I have since painted clear nail polish over the shot cards to waterproof them. I also use primer sealant to glue my 209 primers in place in the RST shells since the fit loose imo.
The red hulls were RST which I believe is the brand you are asking about. The brown are federal 10 gauge cut down.
I’m going to order a half dozen 10 gauge brass cases to try.
thanks, that was a very informative write up.
I was worried that the fiber wads and overshot cards might be loose in cheddite hulls. I have used other brands of hulls with blackpowder and no problems.
I’m using 1/4” alcar nitro cards and BPI for over shot cards.
Here’s my recent post on my journey of how it reloaded mine and targets...
https://castboolits.gunloads.com/sho...or-my-10-gauge
Thank you sir,lots of great information. I am going to stay with the brand of hulls I use now, watching for loose primer pocket and pin holes on hulls.That Manny C is a blast to watch!
Just use nail polish from the dollar store on the outside of the primer walls and inside the primer hole before seating them. It’s basically the same as primer sealer. They won’t go anywhere and will be waterproof to boot.I have to give those “loose” primers a pretty good tap to remove them after firing.
that trick would solve the rio hull problem. will come in very handi since they can not import the rio primers any more and I got a boat load of rio hulls
I thought of the primer sealer (basically nail polish) when I was trying to figure out how to get my 209 to seat firmly since I do not own a primer peener. I had a suggestion on another forum to use a piece of a straw around the primer. I tried it but the straw piece mushroomed around the primer. I just didn’t like the looks of it. I then remembered I had some primer sealer laying around. I painted it around the primer shank and primer hole. It glues the primer in place when dry.Quote:
Originally Posted by rancher1913
I wouldn't worry here Circle Fly has enough variation for antique gauges and muzzleloading shotguns that I'm sure something would fit if the hull were a little oversized.Quote:
Originally Posted by jim 44-40
Jim, I reload 16ga Cheddite’s with BP on a MEC650 with no issues. The cases are on their 3rd reload
Good to know, still looking at them .100 primed hulls are pretty cheap for these crazy times! Better get em while the gettin' is good.
Wish I could find 10 gauge hulls