Mauser 98 Trigger help

I am building a battery of 6 rifles using identical left hand mauser 98 commercial zastava actions.
I know that I will get a chorus suggesting I use something else - but I paid less than half for all six than I would pay for one custom LH action.
I don't want a savage, a ruger, remington, browning or weatherby lefty either as I have concluded that anything less than what the Mauser boys designed in 98 is a step or two down the ladder.
I can do a fair bit of work myself. For calibers I have selected the following. 6,5 x55, 7 x 57, .30/06 and 9,3 x 62 for the light rifles to be stocked on the Rigby highland stalker pattern (except for the 7 x 57 which will be a mannlicher stock in the Mauser M pattern). I have 4 cuts of California fiddleback off the same tree to do so. The other two will be a .375 H&H and .404. One will be stocked in a heavy piece of turkish, the other english walnut. I suppose that other than perhaps sniping at ultra long range antelope or woodchucks, I am well equipped for anything that has walked on the face of the earth and thats that.
I am slicking up the recievers so the actions are a little better. I do not care for the Zastava bottom metal and will replace the standard calibers with the Oberndorf style guards and the 2 big boys with Swift bottom metal.
I am still up in the air about scope mounts, but I like the claw mount concept very much.

Here is the point I am seeking input on. I will use Wismer Model 70 safeties made especially for this action. For the two big boys, I will use the standard military trigger as it is the least complicated and least likely to ever bobble. I may also so this on the 9,3 as it might see a little action with larger game.
HERE IS THE QUESTION I ASK OF MY DEAR GENTLE READERS:
I am stuck between the Timney and the Dayton Traister triggers. I lean towards the D-T because it is smaller (less wood removed in inletting) less complex, and made of steel instead of the large aluminium one of the Timmy.
WHAT ARE YOUR THOUGHTS?

I have used both and like both. I see the D-T as being easier on inletting like you say.
Sounds like worthy projects, please share pics as you go.

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I have used both plus the Boyds Triggers.
But on most of my rifles , I just modified the factory trigger into an Adjustable Roller Ball trigger.
I did a tutorial on it a few years back.
Maybe you can find it somehow.
IMO the Timney was the best of Store bought Triggers.
Especially with the side Safety.
I don't think they make the Boyds any more.
But they were the cheapest and worked great.
Those too I got many with the side thumb safety.

I've had a Timney in my 7x57 for close to 35 years with no problems.

For my store bought Triggers , I made a Dummy trigger out of plastic or Wood and when I glass bedded the stock , the stock was then Molded to fit the replacement trigger exactly.
With the dummy on the action , it was much easier to inlet the stock.
I think I still have the dummy for the Boyds Mauser Trigger without the thumb safety and one for the Timney with the side safety that fits a Mosin Nagants.

I prefer the Timney triggers.

As far as the actions you are using, you couldn't have picked anything better for the job.

I have several rifles on the zastava actions. Mine all have timneys or the factory adjustables, tuned by me. I have never used the DT’s so can’t weigh in on those.

The original 98 military trigger with the ball modification is a very robust trigger that can be very smooth. You can obtain a pull weight of 2 1/2 to 3 pounds with with negligible overtravel. The minimal number of parts and lack of housing will not hold dirt and can be cleaned easily.

The adjustable roller ball triggers I make , have a stop screw up thru the trigger spring.
So you have a way to limit your Over travel.
Mine also were able to adjust down to 1/2 lb pull.
But I feel that is too light to be safe if hunting or if anyone else ever shoots your rifle.

I’d go with Timney triggers!

I have used Timney triggers on both large and small ring Mausers. I have also used the Boyds trigger with good results. I have built two Mausers using the single stage ball trigger from LAGS tutorial. Unfortunately it looks like Timney discontinued the sportsman trigger last year. They still offer the featherweight trigger, which is excellent in a varminter, but I feel that the sportsman trigger was better in a hunting rifle. The Boyds trigger was discontinued many years ago. It was similar in performance to the Timney sportsman. I haven't used the Dayton Traister trigger, but have used their safeties on several Mausers with good results.

For a dangerous game or large caliber rifle I would wholeheartedly recommend LAGS ball trigger modification. It has all the robust reliability of the factory Mauser trigger with a greatly improved trigger pull. The modification is easily accomplished with hand tools and improves the accuracy of the rifle without sacrificing any of the safety features of the Mauser design. It uses the factory trigger and sear, and is of all steel construction.

Besides the recommendation on the trigger there are two additional suggestions I'd like to make. First is on the stock choice. On standard capacity cartridges figured wood makes for an exceptionally attractive firearm. But on heavier recoiling rifles a more straight grain can add more strength to the stock. A good analogy is that a Ferrari looks very cool, but you would not want to take a Ferrari on a safari. The second suggestion is on caliber choice. As a hunting cartridge the 7x57 can do everything that the 6.5x55 can do, and perhaps even a little better. The 257 Roberts is a "dual purpose" cartridge that can preform every bit as well as the 6.5x55, but can double as a varmint rifle. The 6.5x55 is a very good and versatile round, but wouldn't be a top choice as a varminter. Building these rifles in the cartridges of your choice is your prerogative, and rightfully so, but I'd recommend that you take a look at the 257 Roberts as one of those choices.

I too vote for the 257 Roberts.
Another choice I have had good performance from was a 244 or 6mm Remington.
They are the same cartridge , just a different barrel twist.
The 6mm shoots heavier bullets better , and if you are a hand loader , it outperforms the .243 Winchester.
And thank you 405 grain for trying the triggers that I promote made out of the original parts from the rifle.
That is not Totally my design , but more of a combination of three other trigger modifications that I had seen articles on before.

I realize that the 6,5 and the 7mm are pretty close and are even more or less redundant. Yes, I thought about the Roberts to stretch out the interval between the two lightest cartridges. Case capacity is more or less identical between the 3. The 257 has a range of bullet weights from 60 grs to 120. The 6,5mm has a bullet range 95 grs to 160. The 7mm has a bullet weight range of 120gr to 175. So, I agree I could get a bit more versitility by swapping out the the 6,5 x 55 for the 257 Roberts. I really could get by with even less rifles. One of my literary heroes - Finn Aagard opined that he noted very little difference in the effect on game on cartridges between the 6,5 x 54 on the low side and the 30-06 and similar cartridges. He also noted that there was equally little difference between the 9,3 x 62 and the 375 H&H. So I suppose I could "make do" with just two rifles - a 6,5 on the light end and the .375 on the other.

I have also had suggestions that I should swap out for something like a 7mm magnum of one flavor or the other for those long, long, long cross canyon shots. I take comfort in John Barsness who kept meticulous records and concluded that 80 percent of game is shot at ranges under 100 yards, and 95 percent of game is shot at 200 yards or less.

I also agree with the suggestion that proper grain layout and an appropriate choice of wood is important. That is why I will use the well layed out california fiddleback for the lighter recoiling calibers and dense English and Turkish for the two heavier cartridges. I will also use recoil crossbolts for the 3006 on up.
I suppose I could get composite stocks if I was to be as safe from breakage as possible. I have to confess that there is a lot of slack time in the shooting sports. I get my kicks admiring complex wood grain as the sun plays upon it, looking at the engraving and admiring the lines of a well thought out stock. No one has ever waxed poetic over the aesthetics of an AR15.

Finally, I want to assure the gentle readers that worry about being handicapped by my choices in these calibers - I have other rifles - Ruger singleshots in 22 hornet, 243, 7x57, .3006, .338win mag, and 416 Rigby,
conventional Mauser 98s in 250 -3000, 7x57, 8 x 57, 9,3x62, 300 H&H, 3006, 8x57 and 375 H&H and if things get really, really tough - a 12bore double rifle, a 700 Nitro Farquharson, and I am working on an 8 bore single shot Jones underlever rifle. My last hero that I will quote tonight is Peter Hathaway Capstick who coined the term "professional small boy". I am a 60 year old professional small boy with no supervision. I am not well off, but have been able to do this by living frugally and driving sh*tty cars!

All of your caliber choices are good.
Every time I get drawn for big game hunts , I build a rifle for that hunt.
I build them for What I am going to hunt , and Where I am going to hunt.
Like.
I got drawn for Elk.
So I built a Mauser in 35 Whelen.
The same year , I got drawn for Mule Deer.
For that hunt , I built a Mauser in 25-06.
The Elk Hunt was in an area with a lot of trees and not long ranges.
The deer hunt was on an area that was Way more open and flat with longer distances.
Both fit the bill very well.
The bummer is, I haven't got drawn for big game in over 10 years.